Epoxy Primers and poly primers
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I am wondering if instead of using Urethane Hi build after Epoxying bare metal if I should be using Poly’s instead?
I would think it would depend on the metals condition first wouldn’t it?
Such as if the metal is in relatively good condition with no dents go a head and use the Hi build. Such as what I did to the main body of the Ford I am working right now.But The Fenders on this car are RUFF very RUFF I have worked them the best I can and they have been worked MANY times before as well its 70 years old go figure :S any way I am wondering instead of using the Hi build I am thinking Epoxy and Then Poly and going very Heavy with the Poly as well as there is going to be much work to do shaping things up.
Will the Poly over Epoxy get along very well?
Or should I stick with using the Poly over Urethane’s?I dont want to stack on to many materials but at the same time I have a bunch of final shaping to do on these fenders.
Have you done any mud work yet? I would get them to bare metal do my mud work, then go with a poly over top of that.. I think the new feather fill can be put over epoxy. Bondo would know better as he uses it.
[b]Joe@FCAB wrote:[/b]
[quote]Have you done any mud work yet? I would get them to bare metal do my mud work, then go with a poly over top of that.. I think the new feather fill can be put over epoxy. Bondo would know better as he uses it.[/quote]
yep yep an ya what joe said 😉 i wouldnt be putting the feather fill over to fresh of epoxy though cuz the stuff locks so tight plus i would never put it over high build urethane either thats just backwards :unsure: easy would be the best ta tell ya as he uses alot of featherfill doing his restowork an i think he waits to the next day to put the featherfill over his epoxyOnly times I use poly is when I have a bunch of filler over a large area or on wavy fiberglass. If the metal is straight to start with there’s no need for it. Poly over epoxy is fine. Lots of resto guys poly everything. Just depends on the situation for me.
the 4:1 feather fill is difficult to sand especially with a block. i found Mar-Hyde urethane primer surfaces sands like chalk and fills way better if u use a big tip like 2.2 and up
Agreed to all the above. I’d strip it all down, shoot two coats of
epoxy then mud work, prime, seal and bc/cc. Done! :cheer:And, by the time you finish the mud work with 220, the panels
should be straight enough for some regular build 2K. Not always though…Thanks Guy’s
I have all the Panels down to bare metal with just a little more welding to do was doing a loose Trial fit last night of the front end and found a few things I need to fix today. Dang Ford made the Fenders from 4 pieces to each side what a pain.
I’m glad I did the Loose fit though before going ahead and spraying Epoxy last night I found some things that need to be welded up that I didnt know about and It gave me time to think about this next step and ask you guys what you thought! :silly:Thanks for the Tip Bondo makes sense to me.
By the way I am using Slick Sand as a poly
I know I’m a cheap sobI personally am very fond of the 4:1. I have no issues sanding.
I like to use the Poly’s because they don’t shrink up like the urethanes do, they offer more build, and they sand easier.
And as bondo puts it: “They lock shit down”i love poly’s as well. doright, the thing to try to do is think of it more like a glaze than a primer. get the epoxy on the metal, do your filler work then polyprime instead of using a glaze, block smooth and go through the regular steps you normally would with urethane primer and so on. i poly prime when a whole panel or car has filler work on it. if its just a dent, ding or small area then regular glaze works fine over my filler.
I use ploy all the time.Its good for those old rounded fenders on old cars.I bet by the time you get fenders work out,you will have those fenders coated with thin layer of mud thats when featherfill does a great job, it does take longer to dry :whistle:
The kid used some 4:1 yesterday. sanded nice a few hours later when i ot to it. however I did notice the stuff in the cup that was left over was still like gel tonite. the g2 would have been hard as a rock by now
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]The kid used some 4:1 yesterday. sanded nice a few hours later when i ot to it. however I did notice the stuff in the cup that was left over was still like gel tonite. the g2 would have been hard as a rock by now[/quote]sorta wondering how did you dry it? like did u force dry it or air dry it? and how did u sand it with da or hand? because i used it and cant get it to sand easily.
it air dried for about 3-4 hours. then i blocked with 220 no problem.
Still wonderin why the stuff in the cup isnt hard yet :unsure:What are the opinions on Wet sanding this stuff??
I need to know before I try it. :S
I have a couple good coats of it on all my Fenders doors Hood and trunk now,
I already know I am going to need a Tad bit of mud here and there too does this stuff need a good tooth to hold mud? 180 ok?Had the car out side and found a few deep scratches in a couple spots and have decided on one more coat of Hi build.
i assume we are talking about the poly primer. you can wetsand it if you want but your using a coarse grit sandpaper so unless you like making a muddy mess then i dont know why you would want to. reason we wetsand is mostly so the paper doesn’t clog up. i was blocking poly primer yeasterday with 120 grit so anywhere from 80-180 works good. after i do my 120 i buzz over it with a da and a soft pad and some 150 to smooth out the scratches before i put my urethane primer over.
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