European type of fillers vs US ones

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  • April 29, 2014 at 3:27 pm #46506

    Dear Colleagues,
    I was always wondering why we have such different approach to filling dents in Europe. In the US market we see a lot of light weight filler, which usually are quite difficult to sand (some of these products require to start with P40 grit or similar). Usually those fillers give a lot of pinholes, so a finishing putty or glaze is needed as a second steop. In Europe, on the other hand, light weight fillers are still not so widely used. Plus, we tend to use more universal fillers, which in most of the cases do not require finishing putty.
    Does anyone have expereince with working both European and US brands? What is your opinion?
    Regards,

    Alex

    April 29, 2014 at 7:09 pm #46507

    My supplier used to sell an Australian brand filler which I was pretty happy with – until their factory burnt down and they went out of business. It was something of a cross between the US and European types.

    After that my supplier carried a U-Pol filler which I thought was really nice to use. Very smooth and fine, easy to finish good enough to prime straight over. Now they’ve changed again and the last tin was Ever Gold. Awful stuff – feels like it’s full of beach sand when you put it on, cures like granite and always needs to be glazed over.

    All supposedly “lightweight” fillers but give me the European style stuff any day.

    April 29, 2014 at 11:41 pm #46509

    Hate lightweight fillers

    For a dent that is a dime size and larger ex. 5mm + I use the HBBody AluFiller.. aluminium based filler that is rigid, for bumpers/bike fenders from plastics a polyester/glass filler from HBBody..

    For smaller dents/keyed parts/scratches shallower than 5mm directly using finishing glaze..

    Never ever had shrinkage like in lightweight fillers..

    Have also painted directly over them without primers.. promoters etc.. never had problem..

    April 30, 2014 at 3:34 am #46518

    Martin – You paint directly over filler, with out using primer? I couldn’t imagine doing that with solvent or water. I always prime, and if I end up with breakthroughs I seal- seems risky to not at least prime.

    April 30, 2014 at 3:35 am #46519

    Sage it is only on small repairs.. and always over cured and sanded with p1200 grit a finishing glaze..

    April 30, 2014 at 4:17 am #46521

    At least put a couple quick coats of a spray bomb primer on the filler.Wait till you see it in a month,not pretty 😡

    April 30, 2014 at 4:49 am #46522

    I agree with Jayson M. There are rattle can 1k primers that dry super fast. It’s never a good idea to paint over filler, no matter how fine of a grit you feather it out with. Even if you get it covered, It’s gonna end up showing a ghost in the paint down the line. Keystone makes a real nice 1k in a rattle can I use all the time for small breakthroughs and stuff, it’s fast and cheap. There is no reason to not AT LEAST use something similar over filler.

    April 30, 2014 at 11:21 am #46525

    The finishing glaze that I use from HBBody according to tds says that that for small spot repairs can be sanded finally with p1200 and directly painted over..

    That is why I wrote that.. had tried never had problems…

    May 2, 2014 at 8:21 pm #46544

    Hello Martin,
    It is interesting that you know HB Body products well. Actually I used to work for them before I started business myself.
    Is it popular in your market?

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