Fade out
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I plan to fix a scrape on corner of my door, repairs easy enough etc, and i understand that i could colour over the local area and clear the full door,
if i wanted to fade out the clear into the rest of the door, how would i achieve this, what products etc.
ive seen it done once and from what i remember to blend in dry edge of clear, the guy thinned down hos clearcoat again, 1:1 with thiner??
Wetsand your blend area back with a 1500 grit and blend into that area with your clear, take some reducer and mist your blend area to let it melt in then let dry and wetsand/buff out the area. It will last for a while, but down the road it will eventually peel and burn back. But its a quick/easy outta sight outta mind fix.
thats what i couldnt get my head round, how to have no edge after polishing back the dry edge, how are these smart repair guys doing it then ?? as videos etc that ive watched there not clearing the whole panel ,
repair the area that needs colour on it and sand the whole door wet or dry but when you base it up do a coat over the repair and then another coat a fewe inches past the repair and then clear the whole door. thats what i would do
yeah jd thats what i would do, i was meaning like when those smart repair guys would only keep the clearcoat local how do they get rid of the dry edge,
we do smart repairs once in a blue moon at work but when we do we try to do them up to a body line then it is harder to see. do you have any pics
Just clear coat the whole panel to avoid imperfections. Prep it with 1500 grit.
Clear the whole panel out… Not really a good idea to blend out clear half way through the door wont last..
You’re asking how to perform a particular technique, but nobody seems to want to tell you 😆 Sure we all know it’s not recommended practice, but at the end of the day you want to know, so I’ll tell you how I do it:
Make sure your first coat of clear completely covers the basecoated area. When flashed, apply a second coat going slightly further, and flick the edge a little rather than stopping dead.
Then you need to reduce your clear. Many manufacturers have a fade out blender, but it’s really just a very slow reducer, so if you haven’t got a proper blender, just use the slowest compatible reducer (thinner) you can find.
First off I’ll mix this 50/50 (1:1) with the activated clear I have left and lightly wet the dry edge you’ve created above. If you want, you can then use neat blender (or your slow reducer) to wet the edge that your 50/50 mix has left. Personally I use a rattle can blender for the last step, just because it’s quicker.
Then the important thing is to make sure the area is well and truly cured before you start trying to polish / buff it.
cheers andy 🙂
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