final wash/wipe
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Trying to find recommendations on a final wash and towel recommendations. I am using a Utech product now that I am not real happy with, dont really seem to flash in a reasonable amount of time and I havent really had any luck finding a Torx towel that I am real happy with. The first one I used wouldnt really dry the panel, the second one leaves excessive lint. I have had some fisheyes in a few jobs and I am leaning towards the wax and grease remover not being completely removed from the panel. I have a water based cleaner that we use along with the solvent based, but what I have noticed is that the water based cleaner will sometimes create more static on the panel which drags the lint off the towel.
If the final wash issue dont work the way I hope then I might suspect the detail shop down the road. We have a detail shop about a half block down the road that uses alot of Armor All type products. I am thinking that this might be a factor in the fisheyes as well. Does anyone know of a way to test the air in a shop to see if it is carrying contaminants?
Once again thanks for all the help off this forum.
Chuck
Use plain old kitchen Paper towels.
The cheaper, (Less fluffy designs) the better.Oh and you’re technically supposed to let it flash off completely for at least 20-30 minutes before shooting.
May not be that they’re too slow, instead that you’re pushing them too fast.i like useing microfibre cloths seem to work real nice. and dang rat, who has 30 mins. to wait for w&g to dry? lol.
i agree with rat, i have notice that if my towels are soaked from excessive use, that i’m basically put on too much cleaner, and it’s not flashed off enought, and too much will cause fish eyes.
with the wb cleaner try wipeing in one direction, that could help.
as for the detail shop if you think that is causeing some problems, you could go down and explain to them what there products could be doing to you, 1/2 block is a bit far, but it’s possible, and ask them to switch to a wb silicone tire dressing. as a matter of fact you could get some give it to them and ask them to use it, as a peace offering. they refuse, you buy a can of paint striper and start spraying the cars they detail.[quote=”lild” post=19992]i like useing microfibre cloths seem to work real nice. and dang rat, who has 30 mins. to wait for w&g to dry? lol.
i agree with rat, i have notice that if my towels are soaked from excessive use, that i’m basically put on too much cleaner, and it’s not flashed off enought, and too much will cause fish eyes.
with the wb cleaner try wipeing in one direction, that could help.
as for the detail shop if you think that is causeing some problems, you could go down and explain to them what there products could be doing to you, 1/2 block is a bit far, but it’s possible, and ask them to switch to a wb silicone tire dressing. as a matter of fact you could get some give it to them and ask them to use it, as a peace offering. they refuse, you buy a can of paint striper and start spraying the cars they detail.[/quote]As far as allowing it to flash goes, I usually turn the booth on, blow everything, then wipe with solvent cleaner and/or water based cleaner. Then I leave the booth and go mix my paint/sealer etc while its flashing…this usually nets me some decent flash time
I have been letting them air out in the booth while I mix my sealer as well. That along with spraying one cloth to wipe wet then another to make sure I dry it before it flashes. Had one today that had small fisheyes in my blending additve, but seemed fine with the base. I tried some debeer ms clear to see if that changes anything. I was told that a lot of the Sikkens products have a rough time in an old crossflow booth. I have been using pro air clear up to this point. I like the way the debeer ms sprays, tomorrow I will see how it buffs. Our Akzo rep is supposed to get some sort of test kit to see if our air supply could be a source of the fisheyes.
Chuk
I always use the Dupont Sontara wipes. They do a good job of getting the cleaner off the panel while not linting very much. I also always wipe with one rag and dry with another. I dont spray the cleaner onto the panel. Sprayway glass cleaner works well right before paint also.
If your getting a couple fisheyes here and there it may be the air.
Do you have a jobber out there who is carrying Debeer? I have been interested in trying some but no jobber in Louisville.
since you have sikkens in your area, try the antistatic cleaner. its an alcohol based final wipe. you can sub for your waterborne stuff. its extremely fast, super strong and flashes completely. it basically does what a solvent and waterbased cleaner does all in one. you cant wipe basecoat itself down with it though…not that you should need to. the stuff is actually made by henkel and akzo relabels it. rm has it as well. same stuff but relabeled and called 903.
[quote=”jim c” post=20002]since you have sikkens in your area, try the antistatic cleaner. its an alcohol based final wipe. you can sub for your waterborne stuff. its extremely fast, super strong and flashes completely. it basically does what a solvent and waterbased cleaner does all in one. you cant wipe basecoat itself down with it though…not that you should need to. the stuff is actually made by henkel and akzo relabels it. rm has it as well. same stuff but relabeled and called 903.[/quote]
I think henkel is who makes the etch wipes and pen Akzo has also. The antistatic works very good, but you have to be careful as it is some really strong shit. If you have cut throughs it can swell the undercoats some. It will also eat off some factory primers on bumpers and such.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=20003][quote=”jim c” post=20002]since you have sikkens in your area, try the antistatic cleaner. its an alcohol based final wipe. you can sub for your waterborne stuff. its extremely fast, super strong and flashes completely. it basically does what a solvent and waterbased cleaner does all in one. you cant wipe basecoat itself down with it though…not that you should need to. the stuff is actually made by henkel and akzo relabels it. rm has it as well. same stuff but relabeled and called 903.[/quote]
I think henkel is who makes the etch wipes and pen Akzo has also. The antistatic works very good, but you have to be careful as it is some really strong shit. If you have cut throughs it can swell the undercoats some. It will also eat off some factory primers on bumpers and such.[/quote]
Yep.
It is very good stuff…just be cautious with what you are wiping with it. I too have had it dissolve some primer on (GM) bumpers (not often though).
We use the anti-static wipe, the M600 surface cleaner and have some isopropanol around.I think its the bumpers that are sprayed with the waterborne primers. Anything catalyzed i have not had a problem with. I really like the stuff and use it all the time.
Jim you must be talking about autoclean,antistatic is a solvent based cleaner and it is very hot.You can wipe some bumper primers off with it and some spray bomb primers too.I do not use antistatic anymore,I will use DX103 or a 1:1 mix of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water on bumper covers.M600 or utech W&G remover(789 surface cleaner?) on steel panels.
jay, i believe thats the stuff. its been a long time since i have seen the can. i just buy the rm stuff which is exactly the same stuff. yes, anything uncatalyzed it will bite into. i guess you could say its solvent but not your traditional solvent based cleaner. its not waterbased either. i think its mostly alcohol. whatever it is it really works well.
I am starting to think that my fisheye issue is being caused by my air, I went on vacation for about 10 days and no one kept an eye on the dessident drier. The indicator showed that it needed to be changed so I changed it, but maybe it took a few days to get any contaminants out of the system. I have to keep a real close eye on our air supply due to the fact that we share air supply with the body shop. We have our own refridgerant system but if no one shuts the main supply off at night it will continue to pump air through the system without it going through the drier. Everything that I painted yesterday turned out clean with no issues. On a different note I did get to spray some debeer 1-204 ms clear. It’s a 2:1 clear that sprayed extremely well and buffed very easy. Decent price as well it was like 260.00 for a kit with 1 gal of clear and 2 qts activator. I don’t know if I will get to use it to much more cause my boss wants to get everything through our Sikkens jobber. It sprays a lot like the older clears before all of the voc laws kicked in. Didn’t have to hammer it on like the pro air. Ryan I will get you the guys number that I got it from in case you ever need it. Thanks for some of the other recommendations on some of the other cleaners as well.
Thanks, Chuck
Thanks Chuck, that would be really cool. I have been keen on trying Debeer since Andy T talked it up.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=20001][b]I always use the Dupont Sontara wipes[/b]. They do a good job of getting the cleaner off the panel while not linting very much. I also always wipe with one rag and dry with another. [/quote]
:agree
They’re not cheap, but they’re good.
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