First real paintjob in my life – primer too thick.
- This topic has 8 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 3 months ago by .
- Posts
I have never painted a car before. I have used spraygun once then I was 10 years old. I have sprayd using aerosol cans before. But now I would like to start renewing an 95′ Mitsubishi 3000GT.
I have taken plastic parts of and sandend them clean.
I got the paint , filler and primer. Paint from debeer, filler and primer from 4cr.
I’m using 4210 as primer ([url=http://4cr.com/xmlgenerator/_data/456/products/457/12/4210_1000_eng_tm.pdf]4210 TDS[/url])
It comes with 0407 as hardener ([url=http://4cr.com/xmlgenerator/_data/456/products/457/12/4210_1000_eng_tm.pdf]0407 TDS[/url])
I have mixed them together 4:1 as stated. But paint is soooo thick that it barely exits the gun and it more like splatters on the surface rather than spraying it.
I haven’t bought the thinner mentioned in there (it wasn’t also giveon to me on the shop).PS! I made a first testrun with 5 year old 1k primer to practice my hand on test objects and after adding some nitrous thinner it covered very evenly. So I thought it’s time to move on to real thing, but can get things rolling.
So should I add thinner? Can it be universal nitrous thinner or is special (0505) needed.
I used Walcom Slim S HVLP as a gun (1.3mm)@45PSI
Room temperature was a little critical – 19-20 degrees C.So what am I doing wrong? do I need to adjust the gun? The paint?
I’m quite green on this thing so be nice to me.
But have done some homework and watched numerous youtube videos including refinishnetwork ones to get me up the par with the task.1.3 tip is a little small for a high build primer. 1.8 is about average for a primer gun. if you cant get another gun/tip then you will certainly need to reduce it with the correct reducer. you will also likely need more coat to get the build you need out of it
Well yeah – I just bough the gun. It’s brand new. I costa about 190$. I also have Russion paintgun which was made in 1986, which definately have tip size on 1.8+, but I don’t trust it.
But 1.3mm should be good for finish paint?
yes. 1.3 will be fine for your topcoats
Cool. I got myself a cheap 1.7mm gun (33$) and it worked like charm. Added 5% thinner and everything was great. Thanks for info. Probably will be back for more info then I get this dried and get to other coats. Thanks for support.
I’m getting to metal bodywork – what’s the difference in using epoxy vs etching primer?
Both Epoxy and etch are used for bare metal. Etch is the faster of the two and relyes on chemical adhesion and mostly used in collision repair because of its speed.
Epoxy is slower but can be used wet on wet if the recoat window doesnt expire, if it does it needs to be scuffed before top coated. Can also be used as a sealer. Epoxy relyes on mechanical adhesion and is the more durable of the two.Can be sprayed on bare metal and Bondo work can be done over the top of it unlike etch. Epoxy is mainly used in a restoration/industrial setting.Your best bet would be epoxy. Epoxy seals off moisture and gives you the best corrosion protection.
Well. Pictures are here. These are the panels in worst condition.
Bigger picturs here:
[url=http://www.upload.ee/image/2631599/left_group.jpg]http://www.upload.ee/image/2631599/left_group.jpg[/url]
[url=http://www.upload.ee/image/2631602/right_group.jpg]http://www.upload.ee/image/2631602/right_group.jpg[/url]
It seems like etch would give better “grip” for the primer, but would have more downside (using polyester on top of it is a problem I understand?). All in all, seems like epoxy seems safer choice for beginner like me.Also for learning other people mistakes – what could be the problem on the video – pain is chipping away. What’s the main reason for this kind of outcome? It went like this very easily when cleaning with high pressure water:
[video width=500 height=400 type=youtube]G44COw80n98[/video]
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.