Flow Coat
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- This topic has 23 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 2 months ago by Martin.
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- August 27, 2013 at 1:45 am #44273
clearing, blocking smooth then reclearing. that second round would be a flowcoat.
August 27, 2013 at 7:40 am #44277I also use autowave and superior 250.Its the same as any other clear,sand it with 600-800 wet or with an orbital plus interface pad apply 2 more coats of clear.I have done it many times in the past with 250 with great results.
Yeah.. that happened to me when I painted my Uncle’s GSX-R
Although it had a lot problems..
Cratering, fish eyes, runs etc.. but I color sanded the whole thing and added a flow coat.. few minor runs.. but I got almost mirror finish from it..
At the moment I spray 2:1 + 10% reducer to get a more even finish and allow the clear to flow out nicely..
I hope I can get a better finish.. i.e. factory VW finish and better.. with my new gun..
I have a make shift small paint booth that is mobile.. and almost always get no dust or particles.. I have a carpet on the bottom that serves as wet bed retaining the particles..
August 28, 2013 at 12:19 am #44285nick, definately not a procedure for a normal production shop. for me almost everything is flowcoated but very rarely do i ever do a single color job so i need to flow coat anyway for a smooth finish that you cant feel the paint edges on. some stuff is cleared 2,3 or 4 times. on most restorations i do though as well as all the other shops i know of that do nice restorations, they all flowcoat unless the customer is on a super tight budget or timeline.
[quote=”suprarztt” post=32962]On the topic of flow coating, do you guys flow coat with High solid clears?
I spray sikkens autowave(waterbase line) and clear with superior 250, ive tried flow coating once with it, but it doesn’t seem to be worth the effort.[/quote]i dont over reduce
but hey im using a w400 :dnc
what r u spraying with
i bet it begins with an SAugust 28, 2013 at 3:17 am #44289Nick I only do a sand and reclear on restos or something high end like a complete on a lexus or mercedes.For the regular collision jobs 2 coats of superior is all that is needed and then its still too shiny.
Reckless spare us the brand loyalty bull shit,if you don’t like sata and the only guns that work for you are iwatas and platinums all the power too ya,99% of the guys here can get a great job with whatever high end gun they pick up.
a second clearing will most often result in virtualy no die back compared to the first session it can also be done without scuffing the fist session back if done within the first 24 hours as it will crosslink”sherwin williams have recomendation for this to cure solvent pop issues ” but most will scuff first ,my method is to DA the first clearing with P400 then use thinned out product through a fine tipped gun usualy a 1.2 or have my larger set up choked back ,imo the reason why a second clear session maintains a better gloss is the first has sealed everything and stopped the base and primers from acting like blotting paper
[quote=”Jayson M” post=32975]Nick I only do a sand and reclear on restos or something high end like a complete on a lexus or mercedes.For the regular collision jobs 2 coats of superior is all that is needed and then its still too shiny.
Reckless spare us the brand loyalty bull shit,if you don’t like sata and the only guns that work for you are iwatas and platinums all the power too ya,99% of the guys here can get a great job with whatever high end gun they pick up.[/quote]
hey no cussing on this forum
take that back to the other cult forum - AuthorPosts
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