? for autowave users
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does anyone know exactly what the wb 777 flop control does? will it darken the flop? most of my sprayout cards are darker on the flop, especially ones with 777 in them.was thinking of leaving some of it out sometime to see if that helps.
The tinting chart for 777 says:
-metallics appear coarser
-lighter and coarser full flip
-slightly dirties faceAre you doing your spray outs with & without the drop coat…it can make a huge difference. The888C, 888DF and 888MS will have a lighter flip than the other 888 metallics according to Sikkens. Altough I am not so sure about the 888C having a lighter flop.
What colour are you having issues with? All metallics? Are you only spraying the standard or trying the variants as well? Generally the colours seem very blendable.
do you know where I can get a tinting chart?
color with metallics seem the darkest, not much problem with silvers. I was doing a drop coat when we used lesonal wb, but havent with the sikkens yet, I would get coverage, let that dry , tape half and spray a lighter coat, like a drop coat. There was a huge difference in them.
Unfortunately we have to panel paint most jobs, so blendable usually isnt good enough.
Spraying the lesonal wb should be the same as the autowave. The tinting charts should be available from your Sikkens rep or jobber.
I find with several of the metallics, the L or L1 variants can be a better match than the standard (obviously check before spraying).
Why aren’t you allowed to blend the colours?
thanks for the info, the paint rep is sending me a tint chart, and has faxed a chart for metallics and 777.
DRP
My sprayouts are usually a little darker than the deck cards (colored metallics). If a deck card looks good, it’s tough to go with one that is lighter off the bat. I can lighten up the face with a drop coat, but the flip (sikkens’ term) is usually the same. I tried one yesterday, chrystler PEL red metallic, the standard deck card looked the best using a sun gun inside the shop and also taking a part outside checking there too. Y was the next closest. I mixed the standard, did a sprayout card with half of it having a drop coat. both were a little too dark although the face was closer on the drop coat half. Both were darker (face and flip) than the part and the deck card. I did another sprayout adding a little 777, wow!! it got way too coarse looking, I didnt realize the 777 would change the metallic appearance that much. The flip was still too dark, I dont think it changed it much. I guess I’ll have to mix the Y version and try again. I know its always easier to darken a color than lighten it, I should remember that.
I’ve been painting for 30+ years and this waterborne is a real challenge.
The drop coat with autowave is necessary for color match you need to drop your pressure at least 5psi and increase your distance to 14 inches depending on what gun you use.If your not doing a drop coat that is 80% of your problem.If you want to lighten a color use the smallest metallic in the formula or the coarsest to darken it.There is not much painter error with autowave it doesn’t matter if I do a drop coat at 24 or 16psi with a tekna there is no color change and I have the spray outs to prove it.I have been using it for 3.5 years and 8 out of 10 times the standard is a blendable match.Panel painting is a waste of time IMO in this day and age.Take the autowave tinting course it can also help….
the color poster that hangs and my way is different than the description on the bank, and also is different then the let down swatches i got at color adjusment traing.
Well what exactly is your question?There are a few autowave veterans here to answer your questions.
one problem i have been having is my alt formulas dont come close 2 the pro decks. i have been reading that those using autowave like the color matches. was wondering if my deck is out of date, version dates or way off dont know if that means anything
I found (with the exception of some tri stage colours) that the ColorScala Pro deck was very accurate. Remember that metallic colours in the deck have the control coat…that makes a big difference. You should do a spray out card with every job you do, and for metallics, do your control coat on half. You will see a huge difference…
there is a diffence with a drop coat, but it shouldnt change the hue. I had a sikkens rep in this week showed him how I was spraying my cards. He saw nothing wrong, then showed him the matching standard in deck…it was completly different. not even close enogh for adjusting.
The reason they don’t match is they are sprayed out in autobase plus.The variant decks just give you an idea of the different variants. Now in my experience they are pretty close and the alternate formulas match the vehicle better than the decks and thats all that matters.
The 2 of us at our shop paint about 40-50 cars a week and in 4 years we have only had to tint a couple of colors,thats how good the color match has been for us.Two examples this week are a couple of jobs that we painted the parts off the vehicle and installed,we were allowed to blend but didn’t need to as the match was bang on with the standard.The colors were wa301 red jewel,wa636r switch blade silver.In my 25 years I have never had a better matching product.i have found the pro deck match graet, when i mix and spray a card dosent come close 2 pro deck. having 2 adjust 4 out of 5 formulas.
No offence but maybe it is your technique ,what gun are you using,what pressure,distance,and what pressure for final drop coat?Are you blending?Are you using the black card to put your sprayout on top so it has a 1/2 inch black border to see if it is blendable?How are you mixing the paint?Are you mixing the color completely before adding wb activator and after?I am not doubting you we just don’t have a problem getting great matches.
when was the last time your scale was calibrated?
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