Front Lip Retro-fit, Lot ol’ pics!
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Hey Guys!
Here is a little project for a 6th gen Honda Accord Coupe. We have a Wings West Front Lip made for the 6th Gen Sedan. The lip does not fit correctly in the inner corners. A good deal of precise modification had to be done, which can be documented below. Thus far the lip is coming along perfectly. If there is one thing in my lifetime that I want to be remembered for, it is the clean work that I do.
Enjoy!
[B]So here is the problem obviously, it needs to be cut and re-molded.[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8254.jpg[/IMG][B]Here is the dremel I used to cut through this lip. This is probably one of the best aftermarket lips I have seen, you can bend it in half and it won’t crack and it took be a while to go through the plastic, I later learned the jigsaw cuts through it like butter, at any rate I cleaned it up a bit with the dremel sanding block.[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8265.jpg[/IMG][B]Here is where you see how the shape is taken. Basically some duraglass will confirm to the bumper and stick to the lip. You need to grind the plastic up for adhesion. A very rough initial shaping is done here with 36 grit.[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8276.jpg[/IMG][B]Here I took the lip and put it on the stand, this is where the lip will spend most of its time. In these pictures I am using duraglass to build back up the area and get it even again. I don’t sand this with anything finer then 80 grit and I only sand by hand using durablock sanding blocks.[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8302.jpg[/IMG][B]Okay, so you can’t just leave the body filler there and primer over it. Since this is a delicate area, it needs strength, so this is where the fiberglass comes into play. It sort of sucks because you have to mess up your shape somewhat, but it is better then the body filler cracking away from the plastic in the long run.The fiber glass creates a structural bond between the grinded up plastic and the filler.[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8320.jpg[/IMG][B]Once the glass cures, it is time to sand it down, I can get the glass near perfect before filler. I sand it down with 36grit, then 80, still not using anything finer.[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8334.jpg[/IMG][B]So now that the glass has been sanded down, you are going to have some defects of course, so in this case I use a flexible body filler. Not a whole lot is needed, we just trying to get it smooth, not build up the surface. this get sanded down with 80-120[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8346.jpg[/IMG][B]Now we are ready for some 2k thick build primer to lock down those body repairs. Although it is good to spray this out of the gun for ease, it will still work just as well with a foam brush. I prefer the foam brush so that I can build it up in areas I want too. I do about 6 minutes in between three coats. it doesn’t need to go on perfect, it would actually be better to run it, to get it really thick. [/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8360.jpg[/IMG][B]The slicksand gets sanded down from 80-120.[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8362.jpg[/IMG][B]Now I can go over it with SEM Hi Build to fill in my minor sanding scratches and to check for any pinhole defects. This area gets tapped off and gets a couple coats. [/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8376.jpg[/IMG][B]Here I am just filling in small pinholes with spot putty, along with any sanding scratches I see. It will get sanded down and reprimed.[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8378.jpg[/IMG][B]Here is where I failed to take before pictures, but about an inch of the inner lip needed to be cut off because it hit the inner OEM grill. I got a VERY nice cut off the jigsaw as a matter of fact. It actually went through like butter and I was able to follow my tape line quite well. I used my durablock and 36 grit to perfectly shape it.[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8355.jpg[/IMG][B]Here are a couple of pictures of the opposite side that was completed previously! More pictures to come, which will include some more test fits and the painting process.[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8280.jpg[/IMG]May 10, 2010 at 6:25 am #21115Looks good Nex! Its the attention to detail that separates the real craftsmen from all of the hacks out there.
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8417.jpg[/IMG]hey, thanks you!
here is an Update…!
So today I sanded down the rest of those areas with the rattle can primer in preparation for the 2k primer. First though I cleaned the whole lip with some Palm-Olive Original, then I used Scuff Stuff and a Scotch Brite Gray Pad, to scuff up all the remaining bare plastic areas. I followed that up with a rinse off. At that point in time it was ready to be primed. I pulled the lip into the booth and put a coat of adhesion promoter on and then put two coats up 2k primer on there. It now needs to be sanded down with about 180-220, then I will reprime one more. Once it was dry, I made myself a makeshift bumper stand.
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8492.jpg[/IMG]May 11, 2010 at 8:07 am #21151Nex, Looks good. Just wondering though, why do you use the high build rattle can primer then go over it with a 2k surface primer?
I use the rattle can because I just want to see where I need to continue filling in areas. I don’t use it to “prime”. Once i see a completely smooth contour, I went over the whole thing with 2k for protection.
So pretty much I am using the rattle can so I dont have to keep loading up the paint gun (and cleaning) while I am doing the body work, I want to finalize it with rattle can then go over the whole thing witht he 2k.
[B]Update.
So the first two coats of primers gets blocked out with 180, then 220. it was sanded down then put back in the booth for one final coat of primer[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8499.jpg[/IMG][B]I had to replace the filters before I started basecoat, the primer made a mess out of them, I will probably never primer in the booth again.[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8504.jpg[/IMG][B]Once the 3rd coat of primer dried, it got DA’ed just a bit with 400 grit, then I sanded it down with 600 wet with palmolive (original), rinsed it off and let it dry.[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8512.jpg[/IMG][B]Fans hooked up and ready to go.[/B]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8514.jpg[/IMG][B]Solvent Based and Water Based Wax and grease remover, solvent comes first, then waterbased. Solvent removes contaminants such as wax, grease silicone (armor al), waterbased removes contaminates from body oils (fingerprints).[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8518.jpg[/IMG][B]Devilbiss Sri-W 1.0mm tip, and PPG Deltron Basecoat., reduces 1:1 (medium reducer). I use hi flow couplers and a diaphragm regulator on base and clear.[/B][IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8519.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8521.jpg[/IMG][B]New tack rag[/B]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8529.jpg[/IMG][B]Basecoat Down, 8-10 minutes flat time.[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8534.jpg[/IMG][B]Iwata LPH400–, 1.4mm, 22psi, 2 turns out on fluid, wipe open fan, fast reducer, 6 minutes flash time, two coats wet on wet. Couple nibs to buff out, can’t win them all ;)[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8561.jpg[/IMG][B]Booth saying good bye for now.[/B]
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