fuzzy door jambs
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hey everyone, I’m new to this site and been painting for about a year now, but been doing body work since 98. I’m self taught and I’ve watched all of Jimmo’s videos several times. BTW Thank you Jimmo!! I’ve just done my first full paint job lemans blue Chevy Nova. came out great, the second time around. who would’ve thought blue could mottle so bad? LVB air cap on order!!! anyway the ONLY real flaw is that the door jamb tape edge is fuzzy. any videos on “spotting in/fixing fuzzy door jambs? I know I should’ve used 3m foam tape but I didn’t have any and it was the weekend so I just hard lined Deep into the jamb at a crease. the line isn’t bad but the clear is expectedly fuzzy. like I said, I am new to this. I might try 2500 and hand polish, but I think I might have to spot them in but just want to do it right
Welcome to the site :cheers Door jambs can be a pain in the ass but if the owner doesn’t specify no mask lines I just hard line them about 1/8 to 1/4 inch into the jamb.You can also use foam tape but sealer always goes further than base and clear and your left with a visible color line.3m Transition tape works ok if you have lots of time,you need to run 2 rows if using sealer and remove one row after sealer,real pain IMO.
You are on the right track,try some 1200-1500 and polish with a 3 inch wool pad,should get you close,if not you can spot in the jamb with a touch up gun and burn in the clear or cheat and hard line it,up to you depending on what the job warrants.Good luck and post some pics,once again :welcthank you for the advice. and the welcome. by burn in the clear is that like fade out thinner? the first time I sprayed the car I did it with the doors open and fenders off. the color is fine, just mottled. the jambs were perfect that way but a lot of work to spray it that way the customer loved it cause the mottling was only noticeable inside and not in the sun. and there was a halo from my jamb cut in on the sail panel. very minor but I wanted my first full paint job to be perfect so I resprayed it.
Sure, blending solvent is what I mean just a different term.Polishing should work fine,nice car and color,what materials did you use?Any before pics?Did it need lots of metal work?
he bought it in primer. the lower 1/4s were replaced. I blocked it out, primed it. blocked it again. touched up any burn through with 2k primer and shot it. it is really straight and I was a little worried cause I didn’t do the body work. he wanted a cheaper job so I used keystone 3 in one primer sealer. But insisted on PPG DELTRON base (solvent). he wanted Omni and I said i’m not interested. and keystone high solids clear. I wanted ppg all the way but it’s only a 3K paint job
BTW nice car in your profile pic. I’m painting a 69 chevelle for this guy next. RED thank god. that lemans blue is a nightmare to spray for an amateur like myself. my paint rep said I need a LVB air cap for better atomization. so I ordered it for the next job
i had a problem with jams too i work for a very picky boss that had the eye of a eagle he wanted the door jams to look perfect well the only way to do that is to repaint after u paint the outside because no matter what u do sealer travels further and ur always gonna see the sealer line…..but u dnt wanna be repainting every door jam so what i figure out or what i do is i grab a piece of 3000 sand paper scuff the jam wea paint is gonna land mask it with the 3m transition tape which i think is the best for jams better than the foam tape after am done painting the car i see how far the sealer travel if its not to far in i juss hand rub it with compound if is to far in i grab my 3000 sand paper sand the jam carefully and u can see how the sealer line starts to go away as soon as u like wat u see juss hand compound the jam and it looks beautiful no hard lines no nasty over spray,, looks like factory almost… its faster than repainting jams less time and material cost… good results… try it and let me know how u make out,… hopefully i didnt confuse u..lol..
If your going to all that work sanding and polishing on door jambs just run 2 rows of transition tape.After you apply sealer pull off the first row of transition tape apply base and clear,it will be damn near invisible.Do a little polishing and your good to go,personally I just hard line it :stoned
Sealer isn’t an issue as I spray directly over a blocked out primer/sealer. I hardly ever see Jimmo “seal” then base wet on wet. My next car I might cut in the jambs. Then paint the outside with one or two coats of clear. Scuff the shell and then reclear the shell with the jambs open with three or four more coats. I’m going for PERFECT smooth show quality. No time savers or shortcuts. Now understand this isn’t my plan for daily drivers, just the hot rods I’ve gotten the privilege to spray and definitely my own when I get one
As for the nova I did I just hand rubbed the clear overspray with ultra cut compound and it was okay but not up to my standards for this kinda project. I still might try to spot in the clear with blending solvent like Jayson had recommended but I want to practice it on a panel or ten first. thank u all for your input
[quote=”lph400user” post=34786] I’m going for PERFECT smooth show quality. No time savers or shortcuts. [/quote]
Then blow it apart and paint it in pieces = NO tape lines. Simple enough on a restoration.
I will do it that way if he picks solid red but he was talking metallic green. Will the color match? Metallics “line up”? If painted in pieces? My friend painted our first project together years ago in pieces and we had to do a total respray after assembly cause all the panels were different shades
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