Garage repaint – need advice and suggestions.

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  • January 27, 2011 at 3:57 pm #27700

    Hi all :blink: Just found this forum and decided to join up. I have a 95 Acura integra LS and will be repainting in the spring. I plan on repainting it Championship White. My first question is….can I simply rough up the existing clear coat with some 80 grit and then spray primer over top it? or do I have to sand through the clea rcoat before primer?

    January 27, 2011 at 4:00 pm #27701

    I’m guessing i can scuff it up with some 80 grit and then use Epoxy primer to achieve this goal?

    January 27, 2011 at 4:10 pm #27702

    Why are you wanting to prime the car? Only prime the areas you have to fix (rock chips, dent, scratches)

    I would not finish with P80 before primer unless you want a ton of sand scratches to shrink back. finish your repair work with P180 to P240 before prime.

    January 27, 2011 at 4:22 pm #27703

    I’m repainting the whole car. I’m gonna remove the front and rear bumpers. Front and rear lights will be removed also. Good masking job on the windows which will not be removed. Door jams not a problem since it will be sprayed the same color. I have a new door and front fender that will be sprayed off the car also. I have a few small dings and rust areas that need attention before the primer also.

    So after fixing dings, rust ect, I should scuff entire car with either 180 or 240 and then use Epoxy primer? ( 2 coats) and then scuff the primer with 160 again before applying paint?

    Thanks for your time 🙂

    January 27, 2011 at 4:41 pm #27706

    I’m repainting the whole car. I’m gonna remove the front and rear bumpers. Front and rear lights will be removed also. Good masking job on the windows which will not be removed. Door jams not a problem since it will be sprayed the same color. I have a new door and front fender that will be sprayed off the car also. I have a few small dings and rust areas that need attention before the primer also.

    So after fixing dings, rust, etc. I should scuff entire car with either 180 or 240 and then use Epoxy primer? ( 2 coats) and then a sealer primer, then scuff the sealer primer with 180 again before applying paint? or is scuffing the sealer primer not necessary?

    Thanks for your time

    January 27, 2011 at 5:58 pm #27710

    [quote=”bonsaiisuperstar” post=17624]I’m repainting the whole car. I’m gonna remove the front and rear bumpers. Front and rear lights will be removed also. Good masking job on the windows which will not be removed. Door jams not a problem since it will be sprayed the same color. I have a new door and front fender that will be sprayed off the car also. I have a few small dings and rust areas that need attention before the primer also.

    So after fixing dings, rust, etc. I should scuff entire car with either 180 or 240 and then use Epoxy primer? ( 2 coats) and then a sealer primer, then scuff the sealer primer with 180 again before applying paint? or is scuffing the sealer primer not necessary?

    Thanks for your time[/quote]

    car should be finished 320-400 grit prior to paint

    only prime your repair areas , sand them with 320-400 …. then paint the primer spots and any thing needing white base , then clear

    may not need to do the whole car just part of it :kofee

    January 27, 2011 at 7:37 pm #27712

    what stone said.

    repair your areas needed. prime with urethane primer. sand with P400. seal any burn throughs with urethane sealer. let flash for 30 minutes. spray base and clear.

    get your scratches to P180 -p240 before prime. any surrounding areas outside of your repairs that will have primer sprayed on them sand with P320.

    It would be a major beneft for you to determine what brand of product your going to use and what products themselves and read the TDS sheets for them very closely. all your answers will be in there.

    January 28, 2011 at 3:49 am #27736

    [quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=17630]
    It would be a major beneft for you to determine what brand of product your going to use and what products themselves and read the TDS sheets for them very closely. all your answers will be in there.[/quote]

    This is VERY important. All products are different. Finishing with 320 may work well with some, but with others you will see the scratches. There are so many variables like that depending on the products you are using.

    January 31, 2011 at 11:30 am #27881

    very true on what everyone is saying, I’ve seen some work done on 400grit and still left some scratches. I normally finish mines with anywhere between 400-800 grit. Depending sometimes on some paint as well, I’ve had some old paint laying around that were a little over reduce that still had some scratches that were visible even when cleared.

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