General repair question

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  • October 2, 2009 at 3:35 am #16209

    I have a friend that is in charge of a fleet of cars/trucks. He called me about a pickup that has damage to the tailgate.

    I haven’t seen it yet but my question(s) are how do you guys repair a dented top rail on a gate? I have a stud gun and hammer/dolly kit. How about creases? Do you pull it out with the stud gun and then fill? I plan taking a look at it but would like an idea of what may be needed before hand.

    Also, how much would you charge to do a gate with what could be considered normal wear? This could turn out to be a somewhat consistent account from the way he describes the driving abilities of the workers.

    October 2, 2009 at 4:15 am #16210

    unless it’s minor , tail gates aren’t worth fixin … put on a tail gate protector or buy a new tailgate. :pcorn:

    (not unfixable) but they’re built tough so tough to fix :kofee

    October 2, 2009 at 6:53 am #16211

    [b]AAE wrote:[/b]
    [quote]I have a friend that is in charge of a fleet of cars/trucks. He called me about a pickup that has damage to the tailgate.

    I haven’t seen it yet but my question(s) are how do you guys repair a dented top rail on a gate? I have a stud gun and hammer/dolly kit. How about creases? Do you pull it out with the stud gun and then fill? I plan taking a look at it but would like an idea of what may be needed before hand.

    Also, how much would you charge to do a gate with what could be considered normal wear? This could turn out to be a somewhat consistent account from the way he describes the driving abilities of the workers.[/quote]
    throw up a pic an i will try an help ya 😉

    October 2, 2009 at 4:57 pm #16213

    I am going to look at it today hopefully then I will have a better idea. I is are not smart nuff to post pics. That’s why I have kids.

    October 2, 2009 at 8:29 pm #16215

    It has a pretty good crease about 1/4+ deep in places. It runs N/S about 10-12 in. I figure I can pull most out and then fill. Or, I can get a new one from Keystone for 270 but then I would have to remove the badges and all. I told him $350.

    I bought an inline sander just for this job, I have 180 and 220 paper. Should I get some 80 and 120 to knock the filler down?

    October 2, 2009 at 8:40 pm #16216

    [b]AAE wrote:[/b]
    [quote]It has a pretty good crease about 1/4+ deep in places. It runs N/S about 10-12 in. I figure I can pull most out and then fill. Or, I can get a new one from Keystone for 270 but then I would have to remove the badges and all. I told him $350.

    I bought an inline sander just for this job, I have 180 and 220 paper. Should I get some 80 and 120 to knock the filler down?[/quote]

    N/S? :huh: we use front to back or right to left … north to south would depend on the direction of the truck :unsure:

    I use 80/100 for filler and finish up a little with 180 before highbuild :pcorn:

    and to post a picture use (select image file to attach) box below and the browse button to select a picture on your computer to submit 😉

    October 2, 2009 at 8:46 pm #16217

    Do you think the inline is the way to go or would my DA be ok? I figured that with such a large flat surface it would behoove me to get something that would completely span the damaged area and beyond. This sander has a 1″ stroke.

    October 2, 2009 at 8:51 pm #16218

    your call …. I can DA filler pretty well , but usally just block by hand

    October 3, 2009 at 7:28 pm #16230

    Here is a pic of the damage. I tried a side view but it didn’t come out well. [img]http://www.refinishnetwork.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/New_Image.JPG[/img]

    Attachments:
    October 3, 2009 at 7:55 pm #16231

    fixable …. but I’d probably go with a new one :pcorn:

    October 4, 2009 at 8:18 am #16242

    grind it out stud it jerk it mud it an paint it how can ya go wrong 😉

    October 6, 2009 at 2:31 am #16269

    Can you see anything in that picture that says it needs to be hit with the shrinking tip? If so, can you walk me through that? I have the physical tools but not the mental tools.

    October 6, 2009 at 10:35 am #16274

    yah it’ll no doubt oil can on yah if yah try to pull/push it out

    shrinking can be done may ways (i’m old school…oxy acetylene)

    but a stud puller works good for small shrinks :pcorn:

    0)

    October 10, 2009 at 2:17 am #16350

    Here is the topographical map I created on this tail gate. I have tried to hammer down some of the high spots from pulling but still need some work. The areas that burned through, can I spot weld some more studs and cut them off to fill? I tried using the shrinking tip but really don’t know what to expect or how to do it.

    [IMG]http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab17/AffordableAuto_photos/DSC02822-1.jpg[/IMG]

    As you can see by the light there is still a dip in the metal but I am not really that worried about it. If not properly shrunk, what are the chances of the filler popping out after the guy slams the gate a few times?
    [IMG]http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab17/AffordableAuto_photos/DSC02821.jpg[/IMG]

    Thanks for the help!

    Kent

    October 10, 2009 at 3:23 am #16351

    nah , no worries …filler will stick like *** to a blanket with a good etch as you have. how solid is it?, is it doingie still or solid , cause sanding filler on an oil can is near imposible. :pcorn:

    as for the holes ….don’t do that 😉 …. but mig them ,or fill over and undercoat from the back (it’s a tail gate , three months and it’ll happen again) :whistle:

    and i stress “it’s a tailgate” on a work truck , don’t fall in love with it. it’ll see much more abuse.

    Quote “fill it and kick it out” ….bondomerchant

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