General repair question

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  • October 10, 2009 at 7:04 am #16359

    It’s clear that I didn’t attack this with any kind of skill, so, what would be the proper way to do this besides replacement? I used a rivet gun type puller to do this. Would using a slide hammer given better results?

    October 10, 2009 at 7:40 pm #16363

    I personally avoid stud pulling and slid hammers.(untill no other option)

    I would have went inside and worked it from behind and then put a shrink in it because it would have stretched while doing the metal work

    October 10, 2009 at 7:40 pm #16364

    Just shrink or even kink the metal enough to get it to stop oil canning then fill it (burn through holes and all). It’s just a gate on a fleet truck. :whistle:

    October 10, 2009 at 7:58 pm #16365

    I have followed Bondomerchants lead and started mudding it up. I know it is just a fleet truck but it is a good learning experience. There is one spot that still wants to oil can but the rest is pretty solid.

    Stone, how would you get behind it? The gate has a sprayed in liner. I didn’t see any spots that went all the way down.

    Thanks!

    October 10, 2009 at 8:26 pm #16368

    Remove the access panel and the handle assembly and you should have plenty
    of room to work from the inside. Hammer and dolly was all you needed!

    Stud guns and slide hammers are great and must-have tools. But ya really
    gotta be careful as you can create more damage by stretching the metal
    around the damage area… Squeeze the trigger quickly! Don’t hold it!
    But for shrinking, you can hold it a tad longer til the metal glows.
    Keep a squirt bottle and some rags nearby to cool it too. With some
    practice, you’ll love the stud gun. Just bought me a new Stinger!

    October 10, 2009 at 8:29 pm #16370

    [b]Han wrote:[/b]
    [quote]Remove the access panel and the handle assembly and you should have plenty
    of room to work from the inside. Hammer and dolly was all you needed!

    Stud guns and slide hammers are great and must-have tools. But ya really
    gotta be careful as you can create more damage by stretching the metal
    around the damage area… Squeeze the trigger quickly! Don’t hold it!
    But for shrinking, you can hold it a tad longer til the metal glows.
    Keep a squirt bottle and some rags nearby to cool it too. With some
    practice, you’ll love the stud gun. Just bought me a new Stinger![/quote]

    well said Han … took the words right out of my mouth 😛

    October 10, 2009 at 8:37 pm #16372

    HA!

    I like working metal as much as painting!

    October 10, 2009 at 8:40 pm #16373

    I took a look at the handle area and just below the handle and the mechanisms is a solid metal plate that runs the length of the gate with a small gap on either end.

    October 10, 2009 at 10:34 pm #16374

    [b]Han wrote:[/b]
    [quote]HA!

    I like working metal as much as painting![/quote]

    me to and a master of both :whistle:

    October 10, 2009 at 11:34 pm #16376

    when it’s in your blood it’s there to stay…i love it and the challenges…

    Anonymous
    October 11, 2009 at 6:17 pm #16384

    I avoid metal work like the plague but I too always look for ways to access the metal from behind and avoid the stud welder where I can. I’m sure you can access it and maybe shoot some epoxy on the backside to help protect it now.

    I wouldn’t worry about filler falling off either, it should hold up fine. If your new to filler work I’d suggest trying to shape your mud while it’s still tacking up. That’s the way I prefer to do it, cuts on sanding time. I would put my first coat of mud on heavy, then when it’s at the point where it’s not completely dry and not still wet (about 3-5 mins) I’d shape it with some 40 grit, then refine that with some 80 before applying again. Use longer blocks on the job as it will make life much easier then messing around with the little ones. That’s my experience with filler but like I’ve mentioned a few times, mudding is not exactly my area of expertiese. I’d rather another guy suck in all that dust then me!

    October 11, 2009 at 9:54 pm #16391

    on an tail gate like that all ya needed ta do was take a 2by4 an whacked the top with a hammer ta tension the metal back up nothing wrong with using studs they work awesome for stuff like that learning ta work the whole pnl will get ya farther than shrinking usally most people get in trouble shrinking when what the really need ta do is ta put the outter metal back in think about where your edges went when that pnl got pushed in
    http://www.refinishnetwork.com/discussion-forum/auto-body-repair/the-4-hr-dent.html

    October 12, 2009 at 12:56 am #16398

    Here is a pic of that support bar I was telling you guys about. It runs from end to end with only a small opening on each end. The only removable cover is the one that give access to the handle mechanisms. The rest of the gate is covered in bed liner. Would that be covering up access screws?

    [IMG]http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab17/AffordableAuto_photos/DSC02832.jpg[/IMG]

    October 12, 2009 at 7:48 am #16413

    mud it :pcorn: knock it off :pcorn:

    October 12, 2009 at 4:46 pm #16415

    It’s ready for color now. I just want to know what to do in the future. I hear push from behind but that bar is in the way. Is there another way back? I know you are tired of this topic but I am wanting to learn.

    Thanks.

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