getting panels straight as can be ?
- This topic has 31 replies, 15 voices, and was last updated 13 years, 11 months ago by .
- Posts
well i did have a post up but somehow it vanished !!!
so
i am restoring a old mk2 golf gti and want the panels straight and flat …every big job i do you can always see small ripples etc AND I HATE IT
so
i have bought myself a large 16″ 3m hard block with some 80- 120- 180 g strips
7″ 3m hard block with some 120-180 g strips
3m dry guide coateven in the past when i block the guide coat i all comes off at the same time = flat but once painted you see those few little ripples when you drag the light !
so whats the basics of getting that panel super straight ?
on classic cars the sheetmetal was NEVER perfectly straight to begin with, so fixing it is tough.
on a MK 2 it shouldn’t be too bad in that respect, as long as the body metal is in good shape, and the car hasn’t been crunched.
the bigger the block the better. that’s about all I know. beyond that, all you need is a butt load of skill. :rock
Do you use a DA (sander) at all after blocking? Are you using guide coat between each stage of sanding? When you sand your primer, has it dried well (overnight)? When you block, are you using light pressure?
Some primers are denser than others. The dense primers are harder to sand, but can give a straighter surface.
metal bends when it heats and cools / expands and contracts … you maybe trying to erase the non erasable attributes of the metal … go look at a new car on the lot and look at the metal distortions from forming and stamping the metal. other wise block block block 😉
keep your sandpaper clean and sharp dull paper will not get your panel straight.use good fill, platium plus is good,
if you ever watch the show with foose, you’ll notice that put a coat of bondo on new replaced panels to get it straight as can be. also another thing to consider, is the clear. if your guns isn’t set right, it could put the clear on a little heavy. giveing a ripple effect.
If you wanna get panels really straight then you have to guide coat between stage of block sanding. The guide coat will show your highs and lows. All the panels should be block by hand.
[quote=”lild” post=16580]if you ever watch the show with foose, you’ll notice that put a coat of bondo on new replaced panels to get it straight as can be. also another thing to consider, is the clear. if your guns isn’t set right, it could put the clear on a little heavy. giveing a ripple effect.[/quote]
Thats when you need that SPI urethane wave reducer :rofl :rofl :roflThanks guys !!!
Heres the plan
skim all panels with rage filler
block with large block and 80g paper ….guide coat and block till removed
re guide and re block with 80g till guide is removed
skim with rage finishing glaze (stopper)
knock down with 80 ..re guide and sand with 120 ..re guide block with 180
prime with 3 coats of 2k primer let sit over night
guide coat and block primer with 240g re guide then block with 320g
apply another 3 coats of 2k primer let sit over night
re guide and block with 320 re guide block with 500 re guide block with 800
job done
how dose this sound ?? did i miss anything any recomendations welcome
That should get it straight, but it is a lot of work. I don’t know that I would skim the panels with filler and putty, unless I felt they really needed it.
I’d skip the skim coat and go with poly primer.
[quote=”bloverby” post=16728]I’d skip the skim coat and go with poly primer.[/quote]
I second that. It has high build, is much easier than skimming with putty and much cheaper than Urethane primer.
Spray several coats of poly primer, let it dry overnight. Sand with anything from 120-220, until you are satisfied, then reprime with urethane primer.
bet it takes ya alot of poly eh???;) 😉
[quote=”turbo t” post=16722]Thanks guys !!!
Heres the plan
skim all panels with rage filler
block with large block and 80g paper ….guide coat and block till removed
re guide and re block with 80g till guide is removed
skim with rage finishing glaze (stopper)
knock down with 80 ..re guide and sand with 120 ..re guide block with 180
prime with 3 coats of 2k primer let sit over night
guide coat and block primer with 240g re guide then block with 320g
apply another 3 coats of 2k primer let sit over night
re guide and block with 320 re guide block with 500 re guide block with 800
job done
how dose this sound ?? did i miss anything any recomendations welcome[/quote]YIKES!
Just me BUT Too much!
Putting that much material on any thing is bad.Your original complaint about your jobs was Probably just what they call Urethane wave wich is the Clear not being Blocked flat.
Think about it you Block with a Hard block for all your filler work It just makes sense that the Clear should be Blocked with a Hard block as well doesnt it?
Those soft Sponges are great for Wet sanding clear but they dont make anything flat will they?Also Like some one else said Use light pressure when blocking and sharp fresh paper
unless your trying to define body lines, skimming with filler is just more work compared to spraying poly primer.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.