getting panels straight as can be ?
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so what are you recomending do the dent repairs ….. block the panels then spray poly ….block again then prime ?
[quote=”turbo t” post=16758]so what are you recomending do the dent repairs ….. block the panels then spray poly ….block again then prime ?[/quote]
Basically, yes.
Fill any dents properly. If the panels are getting any polyester product (be it filler, putty or primer) it must be down to bare metal. Spray with poly, block, then spray with urethane, block again…
There are countless ways of doing this with many products available. The factors you need to decide are cost, time and quality.
Not all poly primers go over bare metal. Most evercoat stuff needs something under it.
I like the 4:1 super build myself. That can go over bare metal, etch, epoxy, old finishes, etc. and it builds like crazy. Like 8-10 mils per coat.
Slick Sand changed the label this past year. I am using epoxy under it now. :pcorn:
[quote=”bloverby” post=16764]Not all poly primers go over bare metal. Most evercoat stuff needs something under it.
I like the 4:1 super build myself. That can go over bare metal, etch, epoxy, old finishes, etc. and it builds like crazy. Like 8-10 mils per coat.[/quote]
Are you reducing the 4:1 blov?[quote=”timbo” post=16781]
Are you reducing the 4:1 blov?[/quote]Not usually.
it sounds like a great plan but alot of work and i have to agree on skippin the skim:pcorn:
[quote=”bloverby” post=16764]Not all poly primers go over bare metal. Most evercoat stuff needs something under it.
I like the 4:1 super build myself. That can go over bare metal, etch, epoxy, old finishes, etc. and it builds like crazy. Like 8-10 mils per coat.[/quote]
If he’s not stripping it, that is probably the better way to go. The idea of poly over old paint doesn’t make me happy. I imagine the super build probably sands nicely too.
ive had problems with that 4:1 not sanding and clogging the paper up. i used norton blue mag 180 to start sanding with after i let it sit a couple days and still was a pain. ?????? any ideas?
I have used the Slick Sand and Feather Fill G2 both have excellent build
BUT dont let either sit more than a day with out sanding or its like sanding cement!I have always used either one over cured epoxy,
TurboT
What are you working on exactly?
Got any Pics?Is this a street car or Show car?
the car is in the restoration section !!
its realy not to bad itself few bits of rust i have fully cut out and welded in fresh metal
BEN …. as for what i am doing i and just leaving the std finish on the car and blocking it flat with 80 on a long block then 120 then i was going to poly the full car so i can block over …doors-qtrs + doors to wings etc so they all look level and straight
the poly i can get can go over std sound finishes keyed with 120g (lesonal brand by sickens )
apply poly then let sit over night block with 80 -120- 180- then 2k prime
i know it sounds alot of work but its not realy …. iam using 3m paper aswell and it cuts so good and on the long block so defo wont take long
how dose that sound?
I think once your bondo is blocked out nicely I’d put a couple coats of epoxy down to seal it up good, then a few coats of slicksand. I love that stuff. you can use a urethane primer sealer after than to make sure it’s perfect before base coat.
Just don’t go over epoxy too soon with poly. No matter what the P-sheet states for top coating time, you don’t poly over epoxy until it’s cured.
Poly will lock virtually anything down as it sits. And if it ain’t cured, it ain’t gunna’.Oh yeah and don’t use CP400. :deadhorse :chair
what is CP400?
[quote=”bobwires” post=16809]what is CP400?[/quote]
I believe it is the crossfire epoxy.
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