Glasurit 90Line how to make it go faster?????
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Hey guys,
I’m new here, been looking around for abit now. Just couldnt find and answer that i needed.
So I Own and opperate my own shop. been using Glasurit for about 9years 2.5 of which is on 90 line.
The down side to 90 Line is that its slower then 55 Line.
So basicly i need to find ways to make 90line move faster in both application and drying times.
It takes a while to dry properly even with blowers and heat.
Is there any tricks to the trade that you guys using it have learnt that would help me.
Cheers,
David
Welcome to the forum :spraywelc:
Jimmo, the site owner has used onyx (rm’s version of 90 line). hopefully he will chime in for you.
the complaints you have are the normal complaints for basf water. Honestly the only way I have heard people fix the issue is by switching to another paint line :whistle:Nice to have u on board :spraywelc:
:welc Ive been using onyx for 2 yrs now .have no complaints on speed except really humid days my dry times are about 5-7 min between coats of base at 70deg in booth. I do know the rep was telling us that 90 line was slower but havent accually sprayed it myself.the rep also said dollar for dollar onyx was the way to go for same color match and quality
cheers for the welcome guys.
90line and onyx are same same. there formulas are 100% identical. just RM doesn’t have manufacture approvals. RM is glasurits 90line as RM had water in the uk over 25yrs ago till it was bought out by basf then glasuirt had 90line to comply with euro voc levels.
i’ve tried thinning the paint a touch more and it seems to help the speed a bit and the coverage and the blending. and cranking the heat up to 35o helps to.
i was more wanting to know how you went about applying it. do you put one 30% coat on flash it 70% coat on flash it 100% coat on flash it then drop coat or do you just smash 2 full coats on with a flash in between then drop coat it?
i smash coats on personally as i find it works better 100% 1st coat, flash, blender applied then 100% coat with blend flick then quick drop coat. flash it off mix my clear up come back in drop coat it again quick flash then clear it.
a trick for 3 layers for you using onyx liberty if you don’t know it already. don’t use the M5(clear pearl binder) use the M50 (colour blender) it drys quicker and you get an even matt finnish instead of matt where you’ve blended and a glossy finish where you’ve put colour.
we use the HB050 blender at our shop.i also found that if you hb040 insted of hb020 u get a little more consistent blend.i know they like the spray pressure to be in the 20’s but i spray onyx around 11-13psi.sounds to low but i have great results and save paint to.i spray base with my tekna copper 1.4 tip.
yeah i paint it way below the the recommend 2bar/30psi as well. blending is so easy to.
the only 2 thing i hate is, that you cant blend with out using a wet bed or it hallows like crazy unless its a darkish colour so small blow ins are really hard to do.
denibbing the base coat is pointless as it tears and scratches so easily. stays sticky for ever unless its a gold or silver. based up some bike parts for a guy to airbrush and he had them 6 weeks and i got them back they where like a yellow gersons tackcloth.
you learnt any tricks?
Good thread.
I’m going to try some of these tips with Onyx.Sounds like it would be wrong to do this but I have found that if you put on 2 even wet coats and flash off each coat with air and heat the base is similar to 55 line . It won’t be tacky or hard to sand . I have even put on my final 1/2 coat directly after my second wet coat on alot of colors . It comes out very clean and tacks of very smooth .
try thinning it with alcohol ,alcohol evaporates much faster then water ,technicaly waterbased paint doese not “flash” it evaporates or rather the water and other solvents in the mix do “yes water is a solvent” ,isopropyle alcohol works well with most waterbased products as doese proplylene glycol AKA antifreeze “the safe form of” its the same stuff used in toothpastes cosmetics and some foods ,i have always found airflow more important than heat when dryibg out waterbased paints but heat will help
i know some will say this is playing chemist but if the product wont play by itself then either change product or play around a bit to get it working for you 😉
oh and in my experiance i have found compliant guns with smaller tip sizes play better with water as i find i can dust it on finer which tends to not trap the water in thick layers like a HVLP can often do ,the higher pressure of a compliant will evaporate some water enroute to the panel whilst a HVLP will lay the lot down altogether ,too thick and the product will skin over before it has dried out trapping moisture in which then takes substantialy longer to force dry
Artspray you have a pm
We use Onyx where I work. The rep just stopped in today and gave us some info on using it as a solvent borne system.
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