Going from RM Onyx to BMW Colorsystem,spies solven
- This topic has 25 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 1 month ago by .
- Posts
I’ve been spraying RM products for about ten years, diamont for 6 and Onyx for 4. I recently changed jobs and the shop I went to uses the first gen BMW Colorsystem, which is the older Standox water, and Spies hecker permecron 293 solvent. They are supposed to be getting the newer version of Colorsystem in another month, which is supposed to be much better. So far I’ve found the Spies to be much more of a pain to get the metallics to lay down than I’m used to with Onyx and the color system is completely different than anything I’ve every used before. Any one have any experience with making the switch to either one? I could really use some pointers.
Sorry to hear that you’ve switched from RM,RM Rocks.Its one the hardest things changing paint company’s
I have sprayed the old Standox Standohyd since it was available in Canada, as well as the new Standoblue. I love the stuff and feel it is the best system out there IMO. If you have any questions I will try and help. The second gen is a bit easier to spray, but not day and night diferent.
The application of the Standohyd is very different than Onyx so that’s taking some getting used to. Is it true that once it’s dry you can’t paint over it?
Once it’s dry don’t dare paint over it without doing a whole panel or using a wet bed. I couldn’t stand the product simply because of this, something as simple as a dirt nub in your base was a catastrophe to try to fix, esp on a high metallic. It was fast.. but at what cost? Bad color match and not user friendly at all. I got the shop im at to ditch standoblu for nexa aquabase, a much better system imo. The only other one on par with it is autowave from sikkens.
I love the stuff! But there is a huge learning curve. It is $h@&y to re aply over, but I am able to do it. But rarely have to. You want to try and get it right the first time, which really isint that hard to do. The Standoblue is a bit easier to reapply than the Standohyd.
I applied my Standohyd the same way as they recommend to apply the Standoblue. In close and wet on the first coat then far back with heavy overlap on the second coat
Getting a better feel for the paint but still not 100% comfortable with it. When spraying a poor hiding solid color do you use a 3 stage additive or just let it flash completely and add another coat? What do you clean your gun with? I always used a water based gun cleaning solvent, as onyx was very sensitive to solvent, they tell me the previous painter always just used lacquer thinner.
Use water cleaner for a pre clean then always finish with acetone for water born. I would not use laqure
I was painting a Subaru today, color code 02C. Everything laid out nicely and I was all set to clear when I noticed that I could see through the color into the primer. Anyone have any pointers how to correct this problem? I’m learning on the fly at this shop until we upgrade to 2nd gen color system, basically standohyd
How many coats of base?
About 2 and a half. The base does t like to go over itself, or so I’m told, once flashed off completely.
Not sure with water based paint as i still use solvent in the uk but 02c is world rally blue as i have had a couple of scoobys in my time and it does have a dark blue ground coat followed by the pearl top coat which is a very low hiding colour ? Did you use ground coat ?
No it shouldn’t be a 3 stage, and should cover good. You just must not have got it on wet enough. Any talk about when you might be switching to the Newer version? How has the painting been going?
Im not saying its a propper 3 stage just that 02c (in solvent anyway) is quite transparent without a groundcoat ? When i bought my subaru a few years back i noticed the hood had been painted and if you looked closely enough you could see a small patch of grey primer in one corner ! I think they should have used a sun gun lol
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.