got hit today
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Parked in a parking spot and the guy backs in to my truck. He waited for me to come out of the store to talk to me. Told me that he did it. Nice guy to admit to it.
I bought some paint to repair it and some clear. I was wondering… can I use the gray scotchbright pad and that tube of paint prep i think it’s called, and scuff the whole truck and shoot it with the clear? I want to do this so I can cut and buff it smooth. Dont trust the factory clear.
[IMG]http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll228/67ls1vert/our%20cars/0125001653a.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll228/67ls1vert/our%20cars/0125001653.jpg[/IMG]
AnonymousJanuary 26, 2010 at 3:53 pm #18928I’m a little confused on what your doing… I can say yes if you want to apply a coat of clear to the entire vehicle a suitable prep would be a grey pad and sanding paste. Personally on a job like this I would run over it with some 1200 on a DA quick first also. What are you doing about the dent, he really tagged ya good..
January 26, 2010 at 3:55 pm #18929You could, but I wouldn’t. If your going to cut and buff you are likely going to spray three coats, right? I would want a little deeper scratch holding the clear on. At least run a D/A over it with some 600 or 800, then scuff it.
If I was going to go through the trouble of painting my whole truck I would go ahead and base the whole truck also. Fords black can be a little brown. I would rebase with a different black, clear, then sand and buff. For that just prep with P400-500. House of Kolor has a very nice black and the price is good.
yea i agree with everyone, if your going to scuff the whole truck id apply a color coat too. it’ll help fill the minor scratches. you could just wet sand the entire truck with say 2000 grit and polish with out clear but like you mentioned not trusting the factory clear being thick enough. dont forget you have a graphics and stripe that’ll need to be removed and replaced if you do plan to repaint.
Hey guys, I just finished with the insurance company (AAA). Told me to go to the local body shop and get a quote. Came back at $1495.00
I am going to fix the dent myself. Since I was doing the whole right side of the bed I thought, what the heck, I might as well re-clear the whole thing to give it a fresh look.
As for the rest of the truck, there isn’t one scratch on it. It’s an 05′ that I bought new and really took care of it.I like the idea of taking back the paint I bought already and buying enough to base everything.
What do you guys think the blackest best looking paint there is?
Oh yeah, I was wondering about something… I heard that there is a ‘T’ style spacer that you can use under the rubber on the windshield and sun roof to hold the rubber up so I can get the paint and clear under it to eliminate any spray lines. What is it called?
I also want to keep the over spray out of the door jambs. Whats the best and easiest method for this? Back mask it with tape folded over?
[b]Joe@FCAB wrote:[/b]
[quote]I wouldnt paint the whole truck.. Just fix and paint the panel(s) needed, and buff the rest out.. Best to leave what factory paint is still good alone.. Why paint the whole truck if it doesnt need it?![/quote]Yeah I think I would do the same……
[b]G354DoRK wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Joe@FCAB wrote:[/b]
[quote]I wouldnt paint the whole truck.. Just fix and paint the panel(s) needed, and buff the rest out.. Best to leave what factory paint is still good alone.. Why paint the whole truck if it doesnt need it?![/quote]Yeah I think I would do the same……[/quote]
If it ain’t broke don’t fix it :pcorn:
Your making a mountain out of a mole hill. Fix the bedside and be done with it. Could be one of those jobs you’ll be kicking yourself in the ass later on if you run into a problem. If the rest is in good shape leave it. Just my opinion anyways…you know what they say abot opinions.
Thanks for the advice. I really love painting and I want the truck to look awesome.
I have buffed it many times over the past 5 years and I’m afraid to go much more with it.
Scuffing it and clearing it isn’t really that much work.
I did ask about the ‘T’ spacer for the rubber moulding and not one of you guys answered my question. Maybe there is a different way to do it that someone can recommend?
I guess I will start a new thread and ask about it.
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