Got the tech. sheets, what’s a drop coat?

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  • October 17, 2011 at 5:43 pm #33602

    Hello once again! I read the tech sheets and had never heard the term, “drop coat”. I’m willing to bet you guys know! Thanks as always, it is always appreciated!! Jack :rock

    October 17, 2011 at 5:49 pm #33603

    Can be open to interpretation, but usually involves lowering the air pressure a bit and or backing the gun away from the surface. What you’re really trying to do is get bigger droplets of paint with more solvent/water in the to land on the surface and have time to smooth themselves out. This (in theory) keeps the metallic from bunching and pooling.

    October 17, 2011 at 11:54 pm #33606

    Good explanation, but with proper gun adjustment, spraying technique, and reducer selection there is no need for drop coats, assuming you are using a quality base system. On lower quality systems, I’ve seen guy sword fight their way through an all over achieve a uniform metallic finish. Beats me why they keep using the stuff.

    October 18, 2011 at 12:18 am #33607

    [quote=”jeremyb” post=23062]Good explanation, but with proper gun adjustment, spraying technique, and reducer selection there is no need for drop coats, assuming you are using a quality base system. On lower quality systems, I’ve seen guy sword fight their way through an all over achieve a uniform metallic finish. Beats me why they keep using the stuff.[/quote]

    Needing a drop coat doesn’t make a system inferior, it is just a different technique. Many of the waterborne paints recommend a drop coat or similar process. I would agree that metallic control is generally a lot easier with a quality system, however.

    October 18, 2011 at 2:51 am #33611

    [quote=”jeremyb” post=23062]Good explanation, but with proper gun adjustment, spraying technique, and reducer selection there is no need for drop coats, assuming you are using a quality base system. On lower quality systems, I’ve seen guy sword fight their way through an all over achieve a uniform metallic finish. Beats me why they keep using the stuff.[/quote]
    You are obviously too young to have sprayed the original autobase,you had to drop coat it…Dont you blend or are you just spraying restos?The technique is very similar.

    October 18, 2011 at 5:08 am #33613

    [quote=”jeremyb” post=23062]Good explanation, but with proper gun adjustment, spraying technique, and reducer selection there is no need for drop coats, assuming you are using a quality base system. On lower quality systems, I’ve seen guy sword fight their way through an all over achieve a uniform metallic finish. Beats me why they keep using the stuff.[/quote]

    Ever spray a single stage metallic?

    October 18, 2011 at 5:45 am #33614

    My Nexa rep. always corrects me whenever I call an “orientation coat” for aquabase a “drop coat”. :nothingtoad

    October 18, 2011 at 6:41 am #33616

    [quote=”bloverby” post=23070]My Nexa rep. always corrects me whenever I call an “orientation coat” for aquabase a “drop coat”. :nothingtoad[/quote]

    Ask him to explain the difference. 👿

    October 18, 2011 at 6:49 am #33619

    [quote=”Red Baron” post=23072][quote=”bloverby” post=23070]My Nexa rep. always corrects me whenever I call an “orientation coat” for aquabase a “drop coat”. :nothingtoad[/quote]

    Ask him to explain the difference. :evil:[/quote]

    Is that like Sikkens terminology VS PPG terminology VS Sherwin Williams terminology. :lol1
    Kinda like calling your wife by your ex’s name :rofl

    October 18, 2011 at 6:58 am #33621

    Don’t even get me started on the “Tack and a Whack” 1- 1/2 wow clear coat application. :rofl

    October 18, 2011 at 7:04 am #33623

    [quote=”bloverby” post=23077]Don’t even get me started on the “Tack and a Whack” 1- 1/2 wow clear coat application. :rofl[/quote]

    I liked how when PPG came out with the 700/750 clear they boasted the 1 visit idea with the same method.

    Then months later sent out a bulletin saying they needed everyone to wet mil their clear to ensure enough build as they were getting lots of complaints of delam issues. And suggested spraying more traditionally (2 medium wet coats with 3-5 min flash between coats). :rofl

    October 18, 2011 at 2:18 pm #33631

    [quote=”Ben” post=23079][quote=”bloverby” post=23077]Don’t even get me started on the “Tack and a Whack” 1- 1/2 wow clear coat application. :rofl[/quote]

    I liked how when PPG came out with the 700/750 clear they boasted the 1 visit idea with the same method.

    Then months later sent out a bulletin saying they needed everyone to wet mil their clear to ensure enough build as they were getting lots of complaints of delam issues. And suggested spraying more traditionally (2 medium wet coats with 3-5 min flash between coats). :rofl[/quote]

    PPG are up to their old tricks again it seems, their nexa p190-6759 is quoted as being a one visit clear(tack an whack). Its also quoted a being a hs clear even tho it’s only 42% solid :wak

    October 18, 2011 at 4:29 pm #33633

    Thanks all! Just hoping for one last nice day out so I can paint and clear. I have almost 35 hours in this thing. The things I do for family! Living in Pennsylvania, it’s starting to get cold out. I’m just hoping for a 65-70 degree day with low humidity! I live outside of a small town of 5,000. With that said I wish their was a place around here where I could rent a paint booth for a day! I actually decided to just spray both sides of the truck rather than attempt to blend the paint. So, I will probably have about 40 hours of labor and $400 in materials when it’s all said and done. Getting a little nervous being I have never sprayed clearcoat before. I believe we are supposed to have a few days around 60 degrees coming up. Is that too cold to spray or do you think it would be ok? My reducers and hardeners are medium. Thanks as always! Jack :rock

    October 18, 2011 at 4:35 pm #33635

    I’d personally recommend about 65-68 bare minimum. I’ve painted small parts in cooler temperatures…with fast reducer and accelerator (and a prayer or two).

    Cold temp=slow flash times and nasty runs. Also, if it is too cold, the paint won’t start to cure (one training course I took said that below 59-60 degrees was the point where the paint would not want to harden. The solvents will flash off slowly, but until it is brought up to temp it won’t really kick over).

    October 18, 2011 at 4:56 pm #33636

    Thanks for the quick reply Ben! They just said on the radio it’s supposed to be 65 ouut today, lol. I may say a prayer and hope for the best. I honestly don’t really know what to do. I know my days of decent weather are getting more limited by the day. If I decide to spray it today, do you have any advice? longer flash times possibly? Of course this doesn’t have to be a show truck, just decent looking with hopefully decent coverage and minimum to no runs! Of course I would never blame anyone for their advice being that I don’t have the most desirable conditions, experience, etc. So, if you have any suggestions please let me know. Thanks as always! Jack

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