graphics 101
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- This topic has 22 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 15 years, 4 months ago by Barry Overby.
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- August 17, 2009 at 9:05 pm #15388
well if you shoot say 1 light coat over something you probabay wont see any problem as well as if you were to airbrush with it. the more coats you put on the bigger the chance of failure. if you do a coat on something and you are noticing how gummy it is at room temp i magine how soft it would get on a black paintjob sitting in the sun all day long. 1 mil too much on the thickness and it will release. i would usually have a problem with it on sportbikes around all the vent holes on the side fairings where engine heat comes out or on a flake job. it just doesn’t have the strength to bind small flake together and it will release as well. its not expensive stuff, take whatever you have left and dump it. consider yourself lucky and move on to a different product. like i said spi’s is very good, ppg has a couple, basf has bc00 or bc100 and i’m sure every other paint company out there has them as well.
August 18, 2009 at 3:24 am #15397oh yes. those are the tape marks. the red was spi’s base before they stopped making it. my complaint about that stuff was it was too soft as well. not as soft as the sg but soft and it took a long time to harden up. i very rarely used their stuff for graphics. certain bases will have a tendency to this. isn’t omni a enamel type basecoat? these are the type you need to stay away from. the harder polyester type bases can still do it if it hasn’t hardened up but you should see much less of it these types of bases. i use diamont here in the shop and if i let that sit a couple hours or more i dont get any type of tape marks. same as with hok. although it depends on how heavy it was put on and # of coats. you may need to wait overnight on some projects. on solid color bases the marks will completely disappear when cleared. on medium to light metallics and pearls the marks probably wont disappear. applying a nice hard intercoat clear over your base then letting it dry a couple hours will keep this from happening and if it does its really not a big deal because the marks are on the intercoat clear and not in the nice metallic base you just put down. its really no different than your clearcoat fingerprinting when its still soft. once its nice and hard no problem.
August 18, 2009 at 6:05 am #15401[b]RatStang wrote:[/b]
[quote]Here’s a question for when doing graphics. stripes, and what not.Whenever I mask out a stripe. Rather I use Blue Fine line. or 3M 233+
Rather I wait 5 hours for the base to dry. or 30 hours.the masking tape always seems to leave a slight discoloration.
It doesn’t seem like Adhesive, Because I can’t physically feel it.Usually I’ll go over it with a water based Wax and grease remover just to see if I can’t have some effect on it.
But it usually does nothing.But I’ve never noticed it visible when I clear over it.
So I guess my question is what are we supposed to do with these stripes left by masking tape?
What is causing it?
And Is there a way to fix it? Or do we just move on?
Am I just lucky that it isn’t visible? or does everyone have the same results with all colors?[/quote]Same thing happens here every single time I layout a stripe on something,,. Even does it over day old sanded 2k clear.. Lucky it does not show up in the final though 😉
August 18, 2009 at 9:25 pm #15415I can’t resist the urge to scuff sand tape marks out.
I usually apply 1 coat of straight intercoat over the graphics before pulling the tape and will go back in after the tape is pulled and scuff everything that has marks while trying to avoid hitting the edge where the tape was.
When doing graphics, I put down intercoat over everything including solid colors just so I can sand the marks out.
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