guide coat repairs

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  • November 28, 2010 at 2:03 am #25608

    Okay, I’m sure this has been hammered a few times but I couldnt find the answer I was looking for.

    I have the body work finished and now I am on my second coat of primer and guide coating. My question is, I got the panel looking really nice but I have a few small spots where the metal came back through the primer. If I have a small faint spot of guide coat showing that I cant sand out due to the metal showing around it, whats the best way to fill it?

    Can I use more primer to fill it or should I use putty? The car has to be perfectly straight and the customer knows how to look for imperfections.

    I used 220 the first go around and 320 the second coat of primer. Using a 24″ block where I can and a 12″ else where.

    Or is it best to re apply primer to the panel until you can sand all the guide coat off and still have full coverage of primer with out metal showing?

    Thanks…

    November 28, 2010 at 3:26 am #25609

    [quote=”Jinx” post=15736]Or is it best to re apply primer to the panel until you can sand all the guide coat off and still have full coverage of primer with out metal showing?
    [/quote]

    On a project like what you’re describing, Yup.

    November 28, 2010 at 3:49 am #25610

    filler is cheaper than primer so u make the call

    November 28, 2010 at 5:56 am #25616

    with karma like bondo’s who can argue!! LOL! :rock
    good point bondo. :clappy
    i start my filler sanding with 80 (or 40…depends), finish with 180 then urethane prime.
    wet sand 400/600 :blink:
    You might have a ‘brow ring’ poking up that needs to be relieved, (pecked down). then refilled.
    got pics? :pcorn:

    November 28, 2010 at 6:35 am #25617

    Its not a bondo ring it’s just a low spot that the sanding block doesn’t touch. It’s just a slight shaded area, nothing to big.
    I went ahead and added a little more putty to fill in the low spots and now I will re prime again tomorrow and try it again.

    Just wondering about using to much primer???

    November 28, 2010 at 6:48 am #25618

    from the sound of it i would not be concerned with too much primer…

    November 28, 2010 at 6:50 am #25619

    you can pile the primer on a little spot without too much worry. the tech sheets will tell you how much you can build, and then remember you’re sanding off a bunch of what you just applied. it can be quite thick without a problem.

    the evercoat glaze putty, or similar, is real nice for those small low areas. sands out real smooth, and dries quick. I like how it blends into primer better than regular filler. but I’m no pro. what do I know.

    I like to PILE on the primer coats at first, block like mad, hoping I wont have to reprime, but I usually have to… if I hit metal, but it’s nice and flat, then an epoxy seal coat takes care of it. I also have a DTM urethane, that builds pretty well. I like it a lot. I can use that to fill in some low areas as well as cover any bare metal spots.

    November 28, 2010 at 7:05 am #25620

    What is that DTM Urethane Bob?
    I thought all the DTM were epoxy “hybrids”.
    Just wondering cause I have used urethane, epoxy, epoxy-hybrid, and polys…..plus… :pcorn:

    November 28, 2010 at 7:16 am #25622

    Well…the question is weather the metal is high or the spot is low…or maybe a combination of both.

    I would consider using a pick hammer and/or body file to bring down the metal just a hair, then re-skim with putty (assuming it is not deep). If the metal is high and you just fill the low area you are only smoothing the transition, but it is still high.

    Be very gentle when working it and use a very good flowing (thin) polyester glazing putty. Too much work on the metal, too much filler or too much blocking in that area will only make more work for you in the end.

    Where on the vehicle is this spot, can you post a pic?

    November 28, 2010 at 7:22 am #25623

    [quote=”timbo” post=15745]What is that DTM Urethane Bob?
    I thought all the DTM were epoxy “hybrids”.
    Just wondering cause I have used urethane, epoxy, epoxy-hybrid, and polys…..plus… :pcorn:[/quote]

    There are a lot of different products available. It is the resins in the material that make it either epoxy or urethane (or others, or a mix). What makes it DTM is more a mix of other additives. Anything DTM has to do 2 things: give adhesion to bare metal and provide corrosion protection. I believe, generally, Epoxy provide better adhesion to bare metal than urethane. Some urethanes have good corrosion protection and can bridge over small areas of bare metal (like with many urethane sealers). They often aren’t recommended over large bare metal areas, but can give adequate adhesion to smaller areas.

    November 28, 2010 at 7:36 am #25624

    Ben knows what’s up. Direct To Metal can be urethane nowadays.

    All I know is, it builds higher than epoxy, and sands easier. I’ve only used it on bare metal patches once, and it’s been a year without issues.

    keep in mind, 99% of what i do is fiberglass. so my experience on car bodies is quite limited.

    I’m a hardcore epoxy fan, and I use it every chance I get. bare metal, epoxy. seal up anything, epoxy. build a little before a HB primer, epoxy.

    I also use Slicksand frequently, but I don’t use it on body metal. …not sure why I don’t…. just fear of issues related to that much primer, I suppose.

    November 28, 2010 at 7:41 am #25625

    By the way, poly primers are sweet if you haven’t used them.

    My uncle owned a body shop years ago, and when poly primers first came out they were the go-to HB. He said it was the norm to shoot an etch, then pile on the poly. they sanded out to 80 and handed it to the painter. the following year they learned the shrinkage in poly’s of that era was a serious issue. sand scratches showing up months later …. 😡

    I really think they have nailed it down now, and I haven’t heard of that happening for a long time.

    I love the stuff, and when I get around to fixing my beater truck I’m sure I’ll need a 1/4″ of it.

    November 28, 2010 at 9:25 am #25629

    [quote=”bondomerchant” post=15738]filler is cheaper than primer so u make the call[/quote]
    well either ya got an a$$hole in the panel or ya dont ur sanding block or guide coat will tell ya a big plus on the filler side is it cures fast an is cheaper would suck ta get it all shot an have wobbles in the work:chair :chair :chair :chair :chair

    November 28, 2010 at 9:27 am #25630

    [quote=”Jinx” post=15742]Its not a bondo ring it’s just a low spot that the sanding block doesn’t touch. It’s just a slight shaded area, nothing to big.
    I went ahead and added a little more putty to fill in the low spots and now I will re prime again tomorrow and try it again.

    Just wondering about using to much primer???[/quote] ur on the right track jinx 2 much aint a good thing just cuz ya can doesnt mean ya should if ya get my drift:cens :cens :cens :cens

    November 29, 2010 at 1:15 am #25633

    If its a small area id put some bodyfiller. sand with 80 to level then wetsand with 400/600.

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