help!! how do i paint over fresh paint?
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hi everyone im new to forum, last night i tried to paint over freshly paint surface and the paint started cracking, i don’t want to continue until i can find out how to prevent this, is there something i could put on to it first? i hope i don’t have to bare metal it, im trying to keep costs down
regards
jay[quote=”Wydir” post=22346]its called
http://www.ppg.com/coatings/refinish/en/products/troubleshooting/Pages/Pickling.aspx%5B/quote%5DYep, wrinkling.
If the paint is super fresh it is best to wait before resanding and top coating, especially on un activated and un baked products. And if you spray a product overtop with really aggressive solvents (like most solvent base coats) they just love to bite into the fresh finish and wrinkle it.
If you are now trying to repair a wrinkled paintjob, let it dry a few days then try and sand it. you will need to sand off at least the affected layers. Depending on the severity a little light sanding may work, or you may need to be aggressive, then prime it afterwards. If is is really bad then yes, you will need to strip it off.
In either case, I recommend priming overtop after it is done, or at least sealing it with a good 2k product.
September 11, 2011 at 9:36 pm #32839Before you apply any base after you have made your repair take some ready to spray clear,Over reduce it 100% and put one coat over the whole area.This will act like a barrier coat,then apply your base and you will be fine.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=22351]Before you apply any base after you have made your repair take some ready to spray clear,Over reduce it 100% and put one coat over the whole area.This will act like a barrier coat,then apply your base and you will be fine.[/quote]
thanks guys for the replies, i feel a bit more re-ashored now as it didn’t go well the first time, i think Jayson’s idea will work for me, as i am blending the base colour and a clear foundation would be a good option, how thick do i apply the clear btw?
btw way have any of guys used a gun called deltalyo sigma 6000 series, i used it last night its pretty similar to the iwata w400, at first i was a bit sceptical about using it wasn’t sure how the finish was going to look like, but once i started painting i was surprised at what a good finish it gave
jay
September 12, 2011 at 2:14 am #32843Just a thin medium wet coat,but be careful,being over reduced will have a tendency to run easier.This was reccomended to me by a Glasurit rep many years ago for a wet bed for blending metallics or to settle down some wrinkling after your area is repaired.
September 12, 2011 at 2:33 am #32846With a sensitive substrate give it 10 mins or so,for just a wet bed you can base instantly depending on materials.
September 12, 2011 at 4:42 am #32848Spies Hecker actually recommends the same wet bed as Jayson is describing. The only difference is they recommend 300% reduction. Both ways work very good though.
thank you so much guys for all your help and advise!!!!!
this time round thankfully the colour matched nicely if not perfect, i gave it a wet coat of 100% reduced clear and i had no problems at all 🙂
just got a 1 or 2 little bits of dust but ill polish that out tomorrow now
October 6, 2011 at 1:25 pm #33404This can be a very frustrating problem and I agree that you need to allow time to dry before re-coating. Personally I like to use a water based primer/sealer as a blocker to prevent this from happening. It is relatively inexpensive and always works
October 12, 2011 at 4:27 am #33500I had to deal with this very same problem today, added about 10% clear hardner to my base to get things to stop lifting. Gave it plenty of time in between coats and turned out fine.
Chuck
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