help on plan of attck for paint job- newbie
- This topic has 21 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 9 months ago by .
- Posts
im painting my motorcycle fairings and it would be great if you guys could help me with the steps from preparing the plastics to painting them as i really dont know too much about paint products or procedures. most of the damage on my plastics are small scratches to small nics.
picture 2 the paint was repaired and pretty much flush with the oem paint.
picture 3 are little nicks. like ones you would get on the hood of your car from rocks
picture 4 is a scrape on the tank that goes down to the primer
picture 5 is light scratches on matte black[IMG]http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac240/yamahar6397/2011-08-07195204.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac240/yamahar6397/2011-08-07195304.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac240/yamahar6397/2011-08-07195331.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac240/yamahar6397/2011-08-07195440.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac240/yamahar6397/2011-08-07195515.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac240/yamahar6397/2011-08-07195536.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac240/yamahar6397/2011-08-07195845.jpg[/IMG]i know i have to sand eveything but i dont know what grit to start and end with and how much to sand.
will i have to prime the plastics?
i will be painting these in a closed off section of my shed in the fall will temp affect the type of paint i need?thanks guys
I would start with 80grit on a DA to knock down the stuff around the scratches and knicks then I would switch to 180 and go over the entire panel depending on how flexible the bodywork is I would just use a glaze to smooth it out and prime the entire panel sand it smooth with 240-320 then base / Clear. If you can just do one piece to get started then you can learn on one, Besides screwing them all up at once.
What color are you going to paint it? what products will you be using?[quote=”Wydir” post=21727]I would start with 80grit on a DA to knock down the stuff around the scratches and knicks then I would switch to 180 and go over the entire panel depending on how flexible the bodywork is I would just use a glaze to smooth it out and prime the entire panel sand it smooth with 240-320 then base / Clear. If you can just do one piece to get started then you can learn on one, Besides screwing them all up at once.
What color are you going to paint it? what products will you be using?[/quote]im gonna be painting it the same color. matte black and gloss black. i have no idea what products im gonna be using to be honest.is there a a preference for motorcycle bodywork? im probably gonna start off with the air tube(last pic) plastics first since they are small and see how they come out
thanks for the responseJimC does alot of custom work on bikes he would know what products work best. But in most of my cases I use Evercoat products for glaze and body filler.
I also use PPG paint cus it what I have, and black paint is cheap good thing for you, also I remember reading about SEM hotrod black I believe if I can recall that it is a Flat black and fairly cost effective (Cheap)
You may just want to search the site I know its here somewhere.
Also if you want I can do a breakdown of paint costs so you know what to expect when you go buy paint (well in PPG products)
[quote=”Wydir” post=21735]JimC does alot of custom work on bikes he would know what products work best. But in most of my cases I use Evercoat products for glaze and body filler.
I also use PPG paint cus it what I have, and black paint is cheap good thing for you, also I remember reading about SEM hotrod black I believe if I can recall that it is a Flat black and fairly cost effective (Cheap)
You may just want to search the site I know its here somewhere.
Also if you want I can do a breakdown of paint costs so you know what to expect when you go buy paint (well in PPG products)[/quote]
ok ill look into that flat black paint. if you could do a breakdown of paint costs that would be great.
What year is you bike? I can look up what the factory colors were un less you can tell me the paint codes that would be helpfull also.
[quote=”Wydir” post=21737]What year is you bike? I can look up what the factory colors were un less you can tell me the paint codes that would be helpfull also.[/quote]
its a 2005 yamaha r1. i dont know the paint codes but i can search for them
the matte black is 0582 but im not finding anything for the gloss
Im gonna guess its 0903 for the Metallic black as its the only black offered that year
Welcome to our forum: I have been restoring cars most of my life and would be happy to walk you threw it the first time.Bud! As you probably all ready have surmized the finish is the most important step to any project.so it must be done right for that show room appearance,OK? OK,you have small chips and light scratches in the finish. Your going to need a few products before you get started.You will need a can of putty coat,some OEM primer sealer,spray bomb cans will work,and some sand paper/wet or dry paper. OK,and the paper is called Wet or Dry sanding paper. OK,remove all the emblems to be protected or tape them off so not to damage the chrome finish. Then you can start sanding wet with 220 and scuff all areas to be repainted. Then put down a light to medium coat of primer or primer sealer (medium grey only). Let dry thouroughly and lightly wet sand with 400grit paper and rinse off with plain water. Let it dry and mix up your putty coat and apply directly to the areas where you see chips or scratches,let that dry for about 30 to 40 minutes and then test it with your finger nail,by tapping on it.If no marks are left in it then it’s ready to sand on. When dry you can wet sand it down with soft sanding block available at your automotive paint store,for a few bucks. Anyway wet sand with 400 grt. paper all the areas you have filled with putty coat,then dry it off with a terry clothe towel.Next step is to apply your next coat of primer,a medium coat should be enough but you can add more if you can still see or feel imperfections on the surface to be painted,OK? If more had to be applied then you must sand it down again with 400 grt. then dry it off with a terry towel. When your ready pick out your paint B/C and C/C.to be used. Wet sand one final time with 600 grt. paper or 1000 grt. paper. Remember soak your paper overnight before using it.Final steps are paint preparations,and I like using 2step urathane finishes,because you can do so much more with the clear coats these days. But thats up to you what finish you choose. P/S I use a 1.7 thru 2.0 spray tip for my base coats and a 1.3 thru 1.5 for my clear coats. I hope this has helped you out and will give you the confidence you may need to complete your cool project. Be safe where your respirator and good luck,and when your finished post some pics.
^thanks for the response.good info ill be using that for sure
iwent on the colorite website and did a lookup on the paint i need. but i have a question does a clear coat go on the mat paint plastics? and on their site they have reducers will i need it? how much paint am i going to need also? is a half a pint of each enough? and what do you guys think ok colorite paint, is it quality paint? are there better options out there?im gonna take a run down to a local auto paint store tommorow and see how ppg compares in price. i really wanna get my hands on some because ive read good things about their paints
Do not waste your money on colorite. End of story
[quote=”Wydir” post=21757]Do not waste your money on colorite. End of story[/quote]
alright so im gonna go with ppg. and i think im just gonna go with all gloss black. it save me the hassle and a little bit of money. how much paint do you think ill need?
are you doing all pieces gloss black or are you going to do the matte black as well ?
for the black I would just go with PPG # 9850 this will come up as Vivid Black from Harley davidson but is just DMD1683 Toner straight up
it covers very well so you will prolly only need 1 Pint paint and 1 pint reducer (I think the smallest reducer you can get is 1 quart tho)that paint from a jobber will be like $2.50 per ounce or $40(you just need to ask for 16 ounces of DMD1683 otherwise they will charge you according to price code for paint which is around $59) and $19 for the reducer, Then you will need 1 quart of clear I would use DC3000 on that Since you are spraying in a garage(Out of Dust in 5-10 min).
1 pint Basecoat $40.00 DMD1683
1 quart Reducer 21.00 DT885
1 quart clear is $47.00 DC3000
1 pint hardener for clear is $25.00 DCH3085 total cost $133.00+tax
Also if you want to do the Matte Black also you can use the same Basecoat but you will have to buy a Different clearcoat DCU2060 Flexed and Flat Clear and hardener for it DCX611 Quart Flexed and Flat Clear $64.00 DCU2060
1 Half pint Hardener $37.00 DCX61
Total Added cost $101.00+ tax
$234.00 +tax with all products(does not include Flexible glaze,Primer,Sandpaper,tack cloth,respirator,Tape…Ect)
So you see it can get expensive.
But on the otherhand you can always go to colorite and see what there costs come out to. it will be over $300 and the flat black will not be clearcoated resulting in a piss poor paint job than will not hold up
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.