Here we go again…painting my first Three-Stage
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Hi Guys,
In my quest to be in over my head as often as possible, I’m working on a motorcycle for a buddy. The colour he selected was a Mercedes white three-stage (current year). So, I’m just about ready to go and now I’m looking for a few tips on laying down the three-stage. I’ll be shooting on Tuesday if the weather holds. I’ve read the instructions (I’m using Lesonal) and it sounds like a lot of paint to me (3 coats of the foundation and 3-4 of the pearl then clear). I’m guessing they are not full wet coats, but light. Several parts that are disassembled for painting are assembled into things like the fairing – how do you get them all looking the same? The fun part is that I want to get it done for him for Christmas (he’s expecting it in the spring) – let the schooling begin! :rock
I’m probably just stressing because it’s a bike, he’s a buddy, and I’ve not done one (wow – is that three strikes?)
Craig
Well…I am asuming you are using solvent base (although the technique for water isn;t that different)
as for the ground coat, lay however many coats it takes for proper hiding (use a spray out card to verify. Proper flash in between coats is essential. A medium coat should work well, you definitely do not want it to heavy/wet.For the mid coat, make sure you have enough and mix (reduce) as much as you will need. You don’t want to have to ho back half way through and possibly change this colour. Be as consistent as possible making sure all the gun settings don’t change as well as your technique. Spray like a robot in a methodical pattern with even overlap and even gun distance. If you have odd shaped pieces think about how you will cover them evenly. It is a good idea, while you are spraying the ground coat to get a feeling for how you can do the mid coat (what direction to spray the parts in, should you do edges first, or last, how you will angle the gun around the pieces etc). If you manage to be as consistent as possible, the colour should be great amongst pieces. Again, don’t spray wet/heavy and allow adequate flash time.
I recommend an extended flash time before clearing. You will probably wind up with 5 to 8 coats of base (lots of potential for trapped solvents). Typically I would at least, double the flash time or a little more, just to be safe.
Not sure if you have done a lot of small parts before, but when you clear be consistent as well. Small oddly shaped parts can be easy to run, so take your time and be consistent (gun distance, overlap etc).
I am sure you will do fine.
Oh, the most important thing to do is take lots of pictures so we can see your masterpiece later. Good luck!
Thanks Ben – lots of tips. There is a butt load of little parts with odd shapes. I’ve done little stuff lots and know what a pain they are to do…going to work on being methodical. I’m taking pics as I go.
for PPG I know you have to use activator in the base and mid coats to prevent bleeding might want to check the tech sheets for your product.
Canuck make sure you get enough paint and clear and some extra incase you have to do some more painting or touch up.And for your information solvent base will be non existent as of Fri Dec 17.Do a let down panel and see how many coats of mid coat it will take to get the desired effect.Also be careful with the edges when applying your midcoat,it can mess you up.And lesonal base is a great product but waterborne and solvent do spray differently in the akzo nobel line.Any questions just ask :cheers
Hi Jayson,
I just sprayed the UPol primer surfacer and it’s drying right now. I got a pint of each – With reducer that’s 3 pints sprayable…I hope this is enough. I got a full gallon of the UPol 4.0 clear. I’m trying it out on your suggestion – too bad it has to be a three stage!
I hope you mean u-tech 4.0,I had some problems with upol clear,the primer is good.Make sure you have lots of base coat or you will have to use waterborne after dec 17..they will send the solvent system back to the states.Good luck 😉
What colour of primer are you spraying over or are you sealing it? A pint of white base doesn’t go all that far. You may wind up needing more ground coat than mid coat (ground coat MUST cover.hide, mid only needs to achieve the correct colour)
How many parts and how big (tank, fenders, fairing…???). Like Jayson said, it might be a good idea to get some more, just in case.
Sorry – U-Tech 4.0 clear (I’ve just finished using my UPol primer…) and I should be able to make it under the wire if I need more base! I’ve got a fairing and 2 small side pieces and the tank is 15 gallons. No fenders etc. I was going to seal it using some Dimension sealer that I’ve got – it’s light grey. Thoughts?
[quote=”Canuck” post=16151]Sorry – U-Tech 4.0 clear (I’ve just finished using my UPol primer…) and I should be able to make it under the wire if I need more base! I’ve got a fairing and 2 small side pieces and the tank is 15 gallons. No fenders etc. I was going to seal it using some Dimension sealer that I’ve got – it’s light grey. Thoughts?[/quote]
As for the sealer, light gray should be ok (white would be better). You might have enough paint, but I don’t know how you spray/how efficient you and your equipment might be.
The lesonal base should be mixed 2:1 so you will only end up with 3/4 litre mixed from 1 pint. I think I would be comfortable with more available. You will probably need at least 3 coats of each colour.
As for the clear, I have never been a fan of mixing brands. The lesonal Pro Air clear is a great product that is east to use and has an awesome finish.
U-tech,lesonal.sikkens are all akzo nobel products,the non mixing brands does not apply.I think you are going to be shy on paint,you need to do a let down panel to see how many coats are needed for your mid coat 2,4,6 coats.Solvent needs more coats of midcoat to get your effect.White sealer is definately a good idea.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=16154]U-tech,lesonal.sikkens are all akzo nobel products,the non mixing brands does not apply.I think you are going to be shy on paint,you need to do a let down panel to see how many coats are needed for your mid coat 2,4,6 coats.Solvent needs more coats of midcoat to get your effect.White sealer is definately a good idea.[/quote]
I need to comprehend what I read better…I was still thinking he was using U-Pol clear :unsure:
Gonna try the Upol primer… would like a DTM.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=16154]U-tech,lesonal.sikkens are all akzo nobel products,the non mixing brands does not apply.I think you are going to be shy on paint,you need to do a let down panel to see how many coats are needed for your mid coat 2,4,6 coats.Solvent needs more coats of midcoat to get your effect.White sealer is definately a good idea.[/quote]
Looks like I’d better get some more paint…another pint? I’ll see if they have some white sealer.
[quote=”Canuck” post=16165][quote=”Jayson M” post=16154]U-tech,lesonal.sikkens are all akzo nobel products,the non mixing brands does not apply.I think you are going to be shy on paint,you need to do a let down panel to see how many coats are needed for your mid coat 2,4,6 coats.Solvent needs more coats of midcoat to get your effect.White sealer is definately a good idea.[/quote]
Looks like I’d better get some more paint…another pint? I’ll see if they have some white sealer.[/quote]
Another pint of each should be ok.
As Jayson said, though, a letdown panel would be a great idea. Know ahead exactly how many coats of each you will need. That will help you decide how much more paint to buy.
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