Homeade paint booth
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Ok, I know this question has probably been asked, but I didn’t find it on the forum. I am going to build a homeade paint booth in my detached garage and the particulars are as folllows:
1.Will measure 15′ wide x 20′ long x 7′ tall and be 2×4 draywall constructioni. All leaks in doors, drywall, etc. will be sealed with polyurethane foam.
2.Will have a 800 cfm exhaust fan place at about 5′ about the ground and in the front of the booth (if you drive the vehicle in forward, the front bumper is the front of the booth). Will have an intake of three box fans (about 300 cfm together) placed outside the booth with three holes cut into the drywall and only on one side (this will create side draft) at about 3′ above the ground. This creates a negative pressure situation in the paint booth
3.Side light will be 4′ x 1′ (have to fit between the studs and be outside the booth) flouresenct and I will tray and place on in every opening available and put the storngest ligths in them I can afford.
4.ALL electricity will be outside the booth!!!
5.Air Supply will be run from a Kobalt 60 gallon, 13.7 SCFM compressor (you know the cheap one at Lowe’s, since I am no where near a professional auto body guy).
6.The gun – Iwata LPH400 HVLP (18 psi and 13 CFM’s I believe is what it needs).
7.A lot of prayer that the fan does not ignite solvent fumes.Please advise if this sounds like a feasible option? I won’t be paint a car every day, just maybe one a week if I can get it to that point. I will spend a lot of time making the car look the best it can so, lots and lots of wet sanding will happen at my house. Thank in advance.
7′ height is too low, if your not going to be painting that much id probably just clean the garage up really good and soak the floors each time i need to paint. with all the money you save not building the booth, buy a much larger compressor. you wont regret it.
LMAO just noticed you spelled it HO-MADE paint booth
You need a lot more fan than 800cfm……………..
Which box fans are you using? The $20 box fans from Lowes and Target flow 2,000 cfm. Might want to get you at least 4 of those. Place those at one end and some filters on the other so it’ll pull clean filtered air in and it’ll blow crap out.
I would test the booth with maybe some dried ice to see how well it vents. You don’t want your first paint booth to be your last. Change your filters on your mask often.
Turn your fans on before you spray and wait until all the fumes are gone until you turn them off to avoid igniting the fumes.
Personally, I just keep my garage door wide open and I use two box fans to blow fumes out. I don’t like the idea of being trapped with toxic fumes. I paint on nice days with very little wind. I made a screen / cover to keep bugs and dust out. IMHO, it’s not worth risking my health over dust and bugs. If you’re going to cut and buff, it doesn’t matter if there’s a little dust in the paint. It’ll sand out.
[IMG]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/summit-high-build-2k-primer-v8-bug-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/summit-high-build-2k-primer-v8-bug-13.jpg[/IMG]
guys just thinking about it…
im thinking to make a permanent spray booth on my land i have at my house. i know a guy that is going to build me a booth out of cool room panels.
now the problem i have it air flow. i recently renovated my house and replaced the air conditioner.can i use the airconditioner to feed air into the booth? will it be enough CFM or most importantly will it be safe?
the reason why i ask is because a air conditioner will keep a constant air temperature.
with an inline heater?
Hi guys, I have made a little progress on the paint booth.
1. Power has been run to the garage from my house (100A)
2. 110 Volt outlets installed outside the booth with GFCI’s.
3. Compressor properly installed with quick disconnect from power (NEC).
4. Properly installed electrical fixture in the paint booth inside junction boxes.
5. 7000 CFM of airflow to place under the garage door and then let the door down on it to seal the booth (as best it can be sealed anyway).
I will try and continue to add photos as I go further. I’m taking my time with this since I work full time and really haven’t found what I’m looking for in an auto to work on. Thanks for all the help, it has been invaluable.
Doc
looking good Doc :clappy the compressor wiring might need another setup, idk??
What would need to be done? I thought that NEC says it needs to be on a dedicated circuit and have a way to disconnect it within close proximity to the compressor itself. Please advise and I will try and get it done properly (I don’t actually have a copy of NEC code).
Thanks,
DocWhat a minute MoCoke, you are absolutely correct, that should be a GFCI outlet, my bad. I will get that corrected today, thanks for catching that as I want to try and be as compliant as possible.
Hey doc, usually compressors are usually hard-wired into a small circut breaker box with a shutoff on them. Use flexible conduit from compressor to the wall mounted box.
[url=http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100674081&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&MERCH=REC-_-product-1-_-100576894-_-100674081-_-N&locStoreNum=159&marketID=1]similar to this[/url]
You can buy versions that are fused also
Also what gauge wire are you using and what amp is the comp rated for??
Also if you want to give your compressor more life and keep it from running as much, turn down the pressure switch on it. Set it to cut off around 80-100 psi.
Also box in that damn pvc or ditch it all together, a piece of shrapnel isn’t worth it man. If your worried about the epa, you would hate OSHA if they saw that.
The compressor is rated at 15A, and I am using 12/2 wire (think I need to go to 10 gauge?). It has never tripped the breaker (20A) to this point. It’s from Lowe’s, here is the link to the page –> http://www.lowes.com/pd_221565-14989-LLA3706056_0__?newSearch=true&catalogId=10051&productId=3115863&UserSearch=60+gallon+compressor&Ntt=60+gallon+compressor&N=0&langId=-1&storeId=10151&ddkey=http:SearchCatalog
I have had my fair share of experience with OSHA also at work on construction projects, haha, and I understand your concern on the PVC pipe usage for air. It will be changed soon.
I looked at the photo, got it. I will pick one up today from Home Depot. And will do on the pressure shutoff also, Thanks.
I have never used Romex for an application like that either. I always used something like this
[url=http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Wire-Cable-Electrical-Wiring-Armored-Cable/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xg1Zbmcq/R-100142069/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053]this[/url]
or use flexible conduit and run single wires inside.
You will want some type of conduit on the wire. If something was to get into it at 220 volts it could be a disaster.
Ryan:
Roger that…I found this at Lowe’s –> http://www.lowes.com/pd_69898-295-55082121_0__?productId=3134999&Ntt=1%2F2%22+flexible+conduit&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3D1%252F2%2522%2Bflexible%2Bconduit
I don’t need very much of it and that 10 gauge wire is too heavy for a 15A circuit load. I actually tested the current (with a multimeter) with the compressor running and it measured 13A. But, I guess you can never be safe enough with electricity!!!
Thanks for your time, I appreciate the help.
btw… how do you create a hyperlink in a word on this forum? Then I can stop pasting these long links.
Doc
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