Homeade paint booth
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12ga wire is good to 20amps no need to go bigger
Hey Guys,
I said I would try to post info concerning my homemade paint setup as I progress through the process. I have brought the compressor up to code. I used a switch from Home Depot –> http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xj1/R-100356941/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
And I also used the flexible conduit to encase the 12/2 conductors connected to the compressor.
Here is the switch in place
Here is the the line attached to the compressor
A view of the whole setup
Thanks for all the help.
well there was nothing wrong with it being plugged in the outlet you just would of needed to change the wire to an SOW 12/3 cord. But looks nice now. On a side note there is no reason for the switch either you could of ran the wire from the breaker directly to the compressor as it has a switch on it. so now you have 2 switches within 3 feet of each other (one day you will switch one off and swear like mad when your compressor doesn’t start lol).
I have a copy of the latest NEC book if ya need anything just ask
Wyder…yes, I thought it was ok to just plug it into a CFCI outlet with the outlet being on a dedicated circuit (separate circuit for each motored item), but was told different. Anyway, I know it is compliant at this point so it’s ok and if it’s ever inspected, the inspector likes to see extra measures taken. Better safe than sorry.
I see you have a PPG emblem as your profile pic and was thinking of trying some PPG products in the future. I know the Dupont system, but not PPG. There is a PPG supplier within 2 miles of my house and a Dupont supplier within two blocks.
I had to edit this. I remembered incorrectly. The electrician I know does them with the fused disconnect because the switch on most compressors won’t last long with alot of use. With hard wiring it in you use the disconnect as the on/off switch. I thought he said it was code around here for industrial use, but I may be wrong on that.
I can say for sure that the switches are a weak point. Our compressor company has told me this a few times, as they recommend using a separate disconnect also.
Ryan…a guy at my job is an electrician and what you said is basically the same as he told me…I called him after your post…the only difference is the fused switch part, he suggested the switch I put in and showed me his installation at commercial shops around the city (automotive repair, not body shops). He also said that NEC does not require this much effort, but county and city codes go above NEC regulations. So, if it’s overkill, it’s ok with me, at least I don’t have to worry about little critters chewing through the wires on the compressor.
This actually has been quite an interesting experience as I am learning a huge amount about electrical wiring…first time I ever did everything from service panel installation from the house all the way to the end of each circuit in the detached garage…it’s much less involved than I thought…ALL YOU ELECTRICIANS OUT THERE, YOU’RE GETTING OVER LIKE FAT RATS, HAHA!!!
I haven’t found the adjustment for the pressure shut-off yet, but I haven’t looked into it that diligently either as of yet.
Thanks
Basic electrical work isn’t hard, but I have seen the code book for the county I am in and there is a lot in there. Electricians do a whole lot more than just wiring in service panels. Imagine having to wire an entire hi-rise building. That would suck.
The reason disconnects are used instead of regular on/off switches is probably because all the compressors are over 20 amp circuts.
Actually Ryan…this brings me to another point that may help someone else on the forum who may be trying to do the same thing. Here is what’s been done to this point all in to post.
0. I bothered people on the forum many, many, many times for information.
1. Upgraded the residential service from 100A to 200A.
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2. Installed a 100A breaker in the residential panel to service the detached garaged.
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3. Buried 100 feet of 1-1/2″ gray PVC (pipe made for this purpose) 30″ below grade and pulled #3 Aluminum cable (3) through the wires for the 100A supply ([color=#ff0000]that was a pain to do by hand[/color]). Don’t have a photos, sorry.
4. Installed a 100A service panel in the garage.
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5. Placed the appropriate 15A and 20A breakers ( a better compressor would have required a 30A breaker) in the garage box.
6. Ran 1/2″ rigid EMT to all outlets and junction boxes for receptacle supply, lights, compressor, etc.
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7. Pulled 12/2 cable (rated up to 20A) through all conduits and installed CFCI outlets and fluorescent lights.
8. Installed a compressor (60 gallon, 3.7 hp, 155psi max. 13.7 CDM air at 40psi).
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9. Installed air service with 1/2″ pvc (I would highly suggest using copper or some other metal pipe rated to handle the air load and not using PVC piping as I have).
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10. I purchased 5, 1500 CFM exhaust fans for air flow and put them inside a box to sit under the garage door to let the door down on when painting (run on high, they will exchange the volume of air in the paint area two times in one minute). Once done, will have to test this air flow to see if it’s too much and how sprayed paint acts while the exhaust is working.
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11. I am now starting to place plastic around the walls prior to drywall to help with moisture control inside the paint area during humid Midwest summer months.
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That’s where the project is right now, got some more light to install, finish the plastic, put in the drywall and put in some more air to create downdraft.
Sorry for the long posts, hopefully they can be of some benefit to someone else as the forum has been a tremendous resource for me.
Doc
Ya electrical work is not hard but you better know what your doing.
as for your switch you could use a knife disconnect switch(no fuses or breaker) ideally you would use a switch and a contactor (101 ways to do it )
I will predict your switch fails on the wall first,because of the Startup load on the compressor will be around 40amps that lil light switch will be toast so as for being safer I would would disagree.
everything should be fine with what you have for now gotta start somewhere
ya the PPG stuff I bought havent gotten to use it yet as its frickin cold out(no garage heat yet)
My jobbers price is very high for toners so I get my toners online I needed a quart of DMD1605 jobber was 171.25+tax got it online for 83.00 shippedTheDoctor,
Looking good, thanks for the pics.
I’ve been shooting small items such as helmets and Bicycle frames in my garage for a little over a year. I’m curious what fans you are using to move the air. I have a similar wooden frame to the one you show, but have it filled w/ 20×20 airfilters. 8 panels in total. 4 of them have a cheapo box fan blowing out, but it isn’t moving enough air.
I also think I’d benefit from some air input instead of just exhausting, but I don’t have any other opening to the garage other than the door to the inside.
thanks
My goodness, toners are getting up there!!! I purposely started and stopped the compressor several times (just kept letting the air out). The compressor has never tripped the 20A circuit breaker in the panel. While the compressor was running, I cut that little switch off and on three or four times (don’t know if that’s bad for the compressor, but wanted to see it work). The circuit breaker in the service panel (20A) will trip before that switch is burned up since that switch specifically made for it’s intended purpose (30A). The rated load the compressor pulls running is 15A. You know I went into the mechanical room at work today and saw a similar switch on an Air Force compressor, it was rated at 60A (I work for the government as a civilian). Now I look at everything around me electrical, haha.
As far as the 40A start-up surge the compressor causes, it’s merely for a split second which is why it never trips the breaker. That breaker has to be overloaded for a specific amount of time and heated to a certain temperature before it activates. Whatever that time period is in miliseconds, the compressor does not do it long enough to trip the circuit.
Hopefully, your prediction will not become reality, it hasn’t yet.
well im an electrician its what i do for a living your switch and just like your breaker it rated at 30amps for only a short time the problem with the switch is when you guessed it during startup and turning off while running will start to carbon arc inside the switch and it maybe years before it goes bad not in a few tries. I stand by my prediction and only time will tell
the main problem going with a wall switch is the spring pressure behind the contacts when you close the switch you want a fast positive connection and when opening you want it to be just as fast to keep the arc at a minimum
when it goes bad take it apart and check out how cheaply its made and if ya want I will send you a contactor you just pay me shipping . I will send ya a couple one you can take apart and one you can use for whatever you want.
totally agree that the little wall switch is dangerous for that particular application. both my compressors have magnetic starter switches and fused knife type switches.
Hi, I totally agree about the switch – get the right switch in there. I paint in my garage and did like you and had 100A brought out to an older garage. I’m not an electrician, but I wired my entire garage in BX (that’s what we call the metal wrapped wire in Canada) and My main comment is that your wiring would fail an inspection in my neck of the woods. You have to get the wires tied down better. Our requirements dictate that the wires must have the correct bushing (inside so the metal doesn’t wear through the wires) installed and be attached to the stud within 12″ of the box. I usually paint with the door partially open and three box fans (the 20″ cheap ones) and it works fine with the Iwata. I’m upgrading to a larger fan at some point. Get a dryer hooked up and some air lines and you’re on your way.
Canuck…I understood everything you said, except getting the wires tied down together. Which wires are you talking about specifically? I must have missed something. Thanks.
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