How do i fix this mess??
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I have been experimenting with pearls and having a blast doing so….but….everything is turning out well apart from the hood.
I spent hours priming and blocking the hood using guide coat to make sure it was flat, as you can see from the pictures you can see imperfections in the surface thats driving me nuts.
What’s the best approach to fixing this? sand to bear metal and repaint? or can i flat off the clear coat and base and clear again? what did i do wrong to cause this?
If i do need to remove all paint, could i use paint stripper instead of sanding to remove the majority of the layers?the hood was one of the first items i learnt to paint on so the finish isnt very good
🙂
What I see on the picture is a fair bit of orange peel, and the hood looks wavy (not flat).
What did you use to prime it, and what exactly did you do to block it flat?
I used a 2K primer.
The hood is very contoured so i used a combination of different length blocks as much as i can.
the surface appeared to be nice and flat after sanding. the imperfections look like the surface before priming where i was sanding the old paint down, some of the areas broke into the OEM primer and i think thats what i can see.
the hood is aluminum if that makes any difference?not sure if what im seeing is correct but that looks like a combination of primer shrinkage and bad body work. try blocking what you have now and reprime
I’m agree its shrink too.try block sand the clear a bit with 800grip paper,then let the clear open for couple day if u can.then recolor and clear blend the fenders too. It may helpif u didn’t do any thing wrong before
It looks to me like a combination of poor preparation and bad block sanding. Block sanding must be done with a mist of contrasting color over the primer to see what you are doing. I might be wrong
Thank you all very much for the input!!
if it makes any sense, the imperfections started to appear a few days after it was painted….or maybe i just missed them when i first layed down base and clear coats..So the best fix is to sand the clear down to the base color then re-apply base and clear??
You should have strip al the way ro the metal before priming. I would suggest to do so now and reprime. Be careful not to get metal too hot while sanding as aluminum is easy to warp. You could try stripper but when you gat to the oem material it could be hard to come off if this happen let dry and finish with a 9 inch sander with 80 grit paper.
ohh man i hope i didnt get it too hot the first time i sanded the hood….
my gut feeling is strip it to metal and be done…my body is saying hell no 🙂
I’ll let you all know how it turns out.
thanks again for the support!
of course remove all paint is the best,after that he has to find Dtm product on metal.but you didnt tell us what is wrong with the job? Wavy or shrinkage or shows scratches?
i don’t think you need to strip and start over. take some 400 and 600 grit and start blocking. the nice thing is the paint will act like a guide coat. on the areas where you had shrinkage, (basically you put too much on to fast) block well with 400 and if you need to just reprime if you break thru., 600 the rest. stop stressing you’ll be fine.
I’ve been following this post and after looking at the pictures, I agree that this is a “shrinkage” problem compounded by improper sanding and blocking of the hood.
What you need to do is sand the clear and the color, and [i]if you can[/i], bring it down to the original primer, that would be the best. Re-prime it and [i][b]make sure[/b][/i] that you are mixing your primer properly (right amount of hardener and activator). Make sure the primer is good and dry. Block the primer out again and then let it sit. If you don’t have a bake cycle booth, let it sit in the sun [i]after[/i] it’s blocked out to ensure that if there is going to be any shrinkage this time during the curing stage, you’ll see it this time. Bring the car back in and visually inspect the hood [i]carefully[/i] to be sure that there are no spots that shrunk up. A good idea at this point would be to use a 2K sealer over the primer. (Be sure you’re using a 2K sealer with a catalyst and not a 1K sealer) DuPont makes a “white” 2K sealer and since the car is pearl white, that would be a good base color to start with. This will hold everything down to a nice flat finish even if you broke thru any of the coats of primer. Make sure to prep the area as if you were going to apply your base coat. In other words, blow it off, tack it, and re-tack it. The key is to get the sealer to lay down as clean as if you were laying a base coat. If you have dust nibs or anything in the sealer, they make a “white” scuff pad that is finer than the grey that can used to remove any nibs. The sealer is a non-sanding sealer, so ideally, you don’t want to sand it if you don’t need to. There is a time frame for laying your base coat over the sealer. Be [i]sure[/i] you are ready to continue with your base, pearl,and clear [i]before[/i] you seal it. In other words, wait till you’re ready to do the WHOLE job to ensure you can comply with the recommended flash and cure times for the sealer. Follow the directions on the can. There is a reason for them spending hundreds of thousands of dollars in research to determine the best cure times for these products. If you don’t have the time to complete this procedure in it’s entirety, wait until you can make the time to follow through with the [i]complete job[/i]. (primer, sealer, base, pearl, clear).
Hi. Some great answers on here and from what I can see it is a case of contouring/mapping depending on which side of the atlantic you live on. On this forum I see a lot of different terminology regarding paint faults and painting in general so I will try and use USA/UK words!!
This has happened because the original finish/surface youve started with and repaired has started to soften because the solvents/thinners/reducers from the primer youve applied and following/subsequent coats of paint have started to attack/search out the layers of paint that you have sanded back/ feathered out that were on the hood/bonnet originally. This could have been avoided using and applying a sealer/barcoat- this type of paint would have sealed the original finish in.Obviously to remedy/fix this perhaps you should have bare-metalled before primering but due to costs and time constraints this isnt always viable/possible.
If you have shot/applied enough clearcoat/lacquer a hack/quick fix is to colorsand/wet flat with a block the marks out and then polish/mop /buff it to a show/flat finish.
One thing I will say is dont beat yourself up regarding the actual finish of the paint as on your pictures it is just clearly a gun finish or raw paint finish and this is why they invented polishing mops/buffers! 😛
Youve done a great job just getting any sort of finish at this early stage of your painting career.
Keep the pics coming as I teach paint Refinishing and I use these probs as examples to my students!!
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If you have shot/applied enough clearcoat/lacquer a hack/quick fix is to colorsand/wet flat with a block the marks out and then polish/mop /buff it to a show/flat finish.
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That sentence is just great… :p
Well I agree, assuming the base is well prepared, do it wrong at the beginning and you will need 5 gallons either Britt or USA before you can hide the defects, once again, I might be wrong
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