How do you guys setup or adjust your guns?
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I am using 72500 clear with the 12305 hardener and appropriate reducer for the temp. I have tried the 72200 clear put it was dying on me really badly. It would lay down smooth but after a bake cycle it lost alot of it’s gloss.
MG71, did you like the 72200 clear? Did it hold it’s gloss for you very well?
I have our normal rep coming in tomorrow to bring in a mil guage and check our air lines for contaminants or any moisture.
been using 72200 for 10 years and never had any major gloss problems baking or air drying. the 72500 overated and over priced their is no gloss comparison between the 2. if you have a moisture problem or try speeding up flash times it will die on you.
hey jc that an excellent link on how ta set up your gun now if more painters would learn ta do it its amazing what you can do to a gun by dialing it in running every thing wide open makes ya a slave to the gun adjusting it puts the painter back in control as far as sweet spots go a guy should track exactly what psi and the fluid adjustment plus your distance whaen ya really hit it !!! it really helped me out when i broke my ol cheater valve habit:evil: 👿 now i track every thing i do an rarely run into trouble plus its amazing how much less dirt ya get in a job when your putting down thin wet coats of base plus a guys met control goes oughta siteB) B) also i think the job goes together faster to!! but try to tell some of us older painters that you can lay it on faster with the fluid turned in on a gun with a 1.2 or 3 fluid tip a youll just draw a blank stare like your smoking crack:lol: 😆 😆 the only thing i really push alota guys on not to do is crank that fan in that really takes 2 much air away from the air horns an we need all the volume their we can get ta bust up these new products id rather back the air down to the gun
with my gun set up right i can really bang my base on to if ya guys were wondering how i can bang one coat of base after another its the gun setup not that im not honoring my flash times i aways let my base flash dull before i put on another coat but when they are thin coats ya just can dam near bank on it flashing within a min ta min an a half in my system especially mettalliics an thats with a med reducer
Everyone has a different style, speed distance and so on,
so to make a blanket statement on a setting isn’t right for everyone
that’s for sure.
If a painter gets it set to whats “comfortable” for him, it’ll definetly
produce better results.
I’m a bit on the slow side and spray with less, but I only do small collision repair
so I’m not doing entire cars, generally just one or two panels.
My friend, bondoking does overalls and tends to hose it on.
I probably would too if I did larger areas.
Everyone is different;)he has it set with 40psi in 10 out.feed is 1.5 ad fluid is set 2 turns of thread showing. fan is wide open.now this is for clear not base.
MG71, that shocks me he is using a 1.5 nozzle. I would have never thought to use one of that size with a HS clear. I’m guessing the 40psi in and 10 out means he is spraying with the gun at 40 psi and getting 10 at the aircap?
The rep came in yesterday and checked my air lines, booth velocity, and mil thickness and everything was good. The story seems to have changed now to their basecoat being the problem and not me. They are wanting to bring in the Cromax Pro and show it to me next week, they are saying waterbourne will solve the issues we are having.
Thanks for everybody’s help, I will keep everyone updated!
sound strange to me but I guess we’ll see, ya keep us updated.
I figured I should update and let everyone know how it turned out. My solvent still has a bit of a pinch, but my rep is now saying that Dupont just does that and I can’t do anything about it. I was told i’m being to picky. To solve the problem he brought in some Cromax Pro for me to try. If anyone is scared of water or thinks that you won’t like it you are wrong! It has to be the easiest stuff I have ever sprayed. I can get a red metallic like Toyota 3K4 to cover in 1.5 coats. It sprays on pretty chunky and wet but you just have to let it do its’ thing. It will dry down pretty smooth, not as smooth as Sikkens Autowave, but smooth. There is no dieback after clearing because once water is dry it is dry and creates a barrier. I loved it and can’t wait to use it. There are some things you have to get use to and I will list some. Also I got a chance to spray Sikkens waterborne and i’ll give a write-up on it later.
Your panel has to be EXTREMELY clean!
If it fisheyes you only have one chance to try and bridge it with Dupont before you have to seal it and start over. Sikkens is more forgiving.
It can blush a little and look weird where you blend but it goes away with clear
A blind monkey could blend it. Just pull the gun away with full trigger, fan away or just stop, it really doesn’t matter.
The overspray hitting your arm feels cold, like a mist of cold water. I know imagine that!
It sands great when dry.
There is no chance whatsoever of it lifting
There is no overspray that will tack off, your panel before clear feels smooth as glass
You cannot for any reason spray over a body-line burn through when it’s bare metal, for obvious reasons.
If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask, and thanks to everyone for responding and helping with my question.
I’ve always heard good feedback from most people on waterborne, I had never heard anyone suggest it helped with the clear pinching. Good to know, glad its working out for ya now.
The reason it won’t pinch is because with solvent basecoat there is more film build with bigger gaps in between the molecules of paint . All of the solvent in the base doesn’t escape before you clear it. As the clear dries it pulls the surface tight at the edges while the basecoat is still gassing. Therefore the surface will take the shape of the basecoat surface which it now a little rough. With water once all the water is out it is done for good. At least this is the way it was explained to me. I hope I didn’t butcher it too much. If you have a rep who has dealt with water much they should be able to explain this better than me.
Not sure what DuPont reps meant by “pinched”, but I assume it was a “starved look” or “tight peel/texture.
(Been painting since 1970)IMO paint guns controls are [u]supposed to be adjusted[/u], to meet the requrements of the situation. That is:
1) [b]Size of the work [/b](e.g. small objects require a smaller fan and less fluid delivery, than large ones such as a big truck)
2). [b]Speed of application desired or required [/b](i.e. faster application reqires more material than does slow & visa versa)I opine there is definitely a “sweet spot” where one can see/confirm best atomization, for a given product’s solid content
viscosity, sheer response and so on.There seems to be lack of clarity the “Wide Open” settings, reccomendation. Guys at our shop say DuPont reps told
them this is Sata’s official recommendation, however I have not been able to verify this directly with Dan Am.Sharpe tech folks wrote me back saying they do not reccomend this, and I agree.
I’ve spent several days with Sata’s top guys (Dan Am) on more than one occasion and I don’t
recall the “Wide Open” reccomendation, but I’ve heard it from enough people now to believe
it could be true. If it is true, I would like to know why and how then, the above “adjustment scenarios”
can all be met with one setting (especially the small stuff like door jam cutins etcetera)?-Mike Mata Pittsburgh PA
I think the wide open gig has come from all the old school painters.. No offense to any, but here is my reasoning.. back in the day when i started out, the controls on the gun were pretty much useless except for the fan that I would adjust as needed, however everyone and anyone you talked to told you to turn the fluid control knob all the way out and let it ride..
I painted like that for probably a decade.. Did not use much flash times either and rarely saw any issues per say, however i have learned since then that setting the gun up to lay out nice thin even coats is the only way to do it properly in my opinion.. You will create far less urethane wave and when it all shrinks down I think you have a nicer finish..I rarely turn my fluid out more than 3 or so these days, versus when I used to crank it out 8 or however many until the knob popped out and then I would turn it back in a half turn… Man how times have changed.. Use alot less product these days too:laugh:
I’ve heard from a few reps and trainers that its for better atomization but more importantly to get the proper amount of material. If the tech sheets call for 2 coats with a 1.3 to get your ideal mil thickness your not gonna get that with a 1.3 dialed in. But if your getting good results and no problems dialed in, then why mess with whats working for you.
btw, welcome to the insanity mikey…
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