how NOT to do body work

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  • This topic has 40 replies, 18 voices, and was last updated 12 years ago by paul.
Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 41 total)
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  • November 28, 2012 at 7:40 pm #39438

    I was at the drive through and saw this POS. I took pic with cell and went to grocery store. When I came out there was a woman hollerin! Why you take pic of my car!

    November 28, 2012 at 11:51 pm #39441

    LMAO @ Ding :stoned

    November 29, 2012 at 1:15 am #39444

    :rofl

    November 29, 2012 at 4:41 am #39456

    I wonder how u answer her? :clappy

    November 29, 2012 at 6:29 am #39463

    [quote=”wjieling” post=28503]I wonder how u answer her? :clappy[/quote]

    how about…

    i thought i recognized the work

    November 29, 2012 at 9:11 pm #39465

    They even took the time to blend the door on this one.

    Attachments:
    November 29, 2012 at 9:35 pm #39466

    [quote=”protek9543″ post=28511]They even took the time to blend the door on this one.
    [/quote]
    wow i didnt think i would ever see that car again :cens :weights :weights

    November 30, 2012 at 1:09 am #39471

    How about these two. I’m not really finished with the truck but the customer needed it to haul manure.

    :chair

    November 30, 2012 at 6:08 pm #39494

    I know you guys give me a hard way about some putty over OEM paint.Here is the description of the putty I use Dynatron™ Xtra™ Glaze 24 oz.is a premium polyester glazing and finishing putty that is especially formulated to adhere to steel, galvanized steel, aluminum, E-Coat and SMC, as well as OEM paint and primer. It says it adhearers to OEM paint. Years ago all they had was red or green acylic laquer putty. Most of Yall are too young to remember. All that was good for was filling a pinhole in Bond after you sprayed laquer primer on it. We don’t do it like that anymore. I used to remove all the paint to bare metal before using fillers. I have stripped hundreds of cars in my day. Many I stripped with 36 grit. I now use aircraft stripper. Things change, I can’t tell you how many times I have found filler over OEM paint with repaint over it that was holding well. That’s when I quit stripping to bare metal. If you have paint….then feather to metal… then feather to filler…. Well now you have 2 transistions to bare metal. The way I do it, there is not even one trasition to metal. Todays OEM paints are stuck well. If it is not, then I will go to metal… What is important is that the area to be filled is rough sanded well. :flamewar Flame suit on! Bill

    November 30, 2012 at 8:59 pm #39495

    WOW :blink:

    http://www.youtube.com/user/ITWEvercoat

    November 30, 2012 at 9:00 pm #39496

    [quote=”billgaino” post=28534]I know you guys give me a hard way about some putty over OEM paint.Here is the description of the putty I use Dynatron™ Xtra™ Glaze 24 oz.is a premium polyester glazing and finishing putty that is especially formulated to adhere to steel, galvanized steel, aluminum, E-Coat and SMC, as well as OEM paint and primer. It says it adhearers to OEM paint. Years ago all they had was red or green acylic laquer putty. Most of Yall are too young to remember. All that was good for was filling a pinhole in Bond after you sprayed laquer primer on it. We don’t do it like that anymore. I used to remove all the paint to bare metal before using fillers. I have stripped hundreds of cars in my day. Many I stripped with 36 grit. I now use aircraft stripper. Things change, I can’t tell you how many times I have found filler over OEM paint with repaint over it that was holding well. That’s when I quit stripping to bare metal. If you have paint….then feather to metal… then feather to filler…. Well now you have 2 transistions to bare metal. The way I do it, there is not even one trasition to metal. Todays OEM paints are stuck well. If it is not, then I will go to metal… What is important is that the area to be filled is rough sanded well. :flamewar Flame suit on! Bill

    [/quote]

    WOW :blink:

    http://www.youtube.com/user/ITWEvercoat

    November 30, 2012 at 10:00 pm #39497

    [quote=”billgaino” post=28534] Todays OEM paints are stuck well.

    [/quote]

    That’s not OEM paint… that’s a previously repaired panel. Not only did you go over the repaint, you went over the old mud that has been hit and therefore very likely to crack in the future….

    Sorry Bill but noone here is going to pat you on the back for doing those type of repairs.. :wak

    November 30, 2012 at 10:17 pm #39499

    [quote=”bloverby” post=28537][quote=”billgaino” post=28534] Todays OEM paints are stuck well.

    [/quote]

    That’s not OEM paint… that’s a previously repaired panel. Not only did you go over the repaint, you went over the old mud that has been hit and therefore very likely to crack in the future….

    Sorry Bill but noone here is going to pat you on the back for doing those type of repairs.. :wak[/quote] You know bloverby, I did that start to finish, and I don’t remember that old bondo being there, good eye. This particular job may be a bad example. I did mix the kitty hair in with my filler to prevent the cracking. The point I was trying to make is that it is OK to use filler over paint, as described in the Evercoat video ding linked.

    November 30, 2012 at 10:25 pm #39501

    [quote=”billgaino” post=28539] I did that start to finish, and I don’t remember that old bondo being there[/quote]

    :rofl :lol1 too funny!

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