Humbly come before you!
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This is my first post here. I don’t have a Bodyshop like you guys. My question is about my Stinger stud gun. I have a potential job ahead that will require pulling out a dent on the bed (right behind the cab) on a Ram.
I bought this tool a while back but only now decided to see how it works. I found a piece of a hood I had laying around and took a hammer to it to make a similar sized dent. I ground it down to metal and start putting studs on. That was fun! But, as I started to remove those studs I noticed that there was a slight problem. I could see my garage floor. There were holes going all the way through.
I am confident that I didn’t hold the trigger for more than a second. The area around the stud had what looked like a perfect scorched area. Am I holding the trigger too long? Also, how do you keep from starting a fire with this thing?
Thanks for your help!
Kent
are you grinding the studs off or trying ta twist em off
Twist and shouting
ive had pretty good luck twisting mine off if i just touch the trigger but if they get really burned in ya should just snip the studs an grind em with a body grinding disc till its flush good luck;)
ya. what bondo said. if they dont twist right off then grind em. really a second is even too long to hold the trigger on those. a quick zzzp and thats all they need to hold
Ok, I have a lot of metal around so I will have my son grind em down and I will weld. Thanks for the help guys!
If you do the stud weld quick enough you can generally twist them off. I use a end cutter pliers (Flat face cutter) generally to work around it first before I do much twisting.
Sometimes you need more grip though and you require a longer weld to get them to hang on during the beating.
At which case I usually dike the face off, and take them down with a grinder or a 80 grit disk on a high speed.
If I happen to put a hole, I’ll just weld it shut.
After awhile you’ll get used to how long your stud weld needs to be for the right job.
You’ll generally know rather you need to twist or dike and grind during removal though.There is a very fine line between not enough, and too long.
A lot of shops suggest they all be diked off and taken down with a sanding disk.
Just because if you put a hole it increases time over just diking and grinding them all off in general.
Like they say, better safe then sorry.Richard
I can usually twist mine off B)
I also find a real long extension cord helps too. :huh:
[b]Stone wrote:[/b]
[quote]I can usually twist mine off B)I also find a real long extension cord helps too. :huh:[/quote] (seems to to make it easier not to over weld) B)
oops :S double post :blush:
Don’t over grind the metall you are studding to, try bigger studs on thinner metal lika a hood and such, and also the wire adapter works much better on creases. Grind the end of the studs flat a little bit if you are on really thin metal. The more area contacting the metal, the less likely you will yank a hole in it. Also try using more studs closer together so you aren’t trying to yank a 3 inch dent out with just 2 studs.
i never twist or wiggle just cause there is always a chance of leaving a hole.
i use side cutters cut them right through leave a millimeter or two sticking out of the panel then simply grind of with a fibre disc.
This way you have no chance of leaving a hole
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