ideas on setting a good production painter crew
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- This topic has 3 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 6 months ago by Pierce.
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- June 7, 2013 at 3:35 pm #43359
Stay busy and use your time wisely. It’s good to be fast but doing the wrong thing really fast doesn’t really matter. Try to stay organized and have some type of systematic approach of doing things. One that will work in your particular shop. Qualify your colors (make spray cards) for up-coming jobs in between coats of other jobs. Focus on quality. Speed will come over time. Doing any job twice kills production.
Yep, spot on Diambert.
As a shop owner that’s exactly what I’m looking for. Efficient use of time so that the dead spots are utilised and it becomes possible to do the work in less hours than were allowed. Quality – absolutely essential! Reworks are like taking out my wallet and throwing $50 notes on the floor. They cost money and you’d better believe that the boss will notice if your reworks are more, or less, than the average. To be honest I’m suspicious of a painter who tells me that he’s “fast”. To me that says that he cuts corners and there is nothing worse than having to do warranty repairs because some lazy git thought that he could skip a step or two and meanwhile has moved on to wreak his particular brand of havoc at some other shop. Do the job and do it right and you will succeed.
I think I can learn a lot from this thread because there’s a lot of great professionals here.
In my shop I focus on speed first and perfection second. And there’s a few things that have been real game changers for my version of painting.
-priming right before paint (solid colours don’t need sanding and metallics need sanding on the edge of the primer)
-not waiting in between coats (blowing air through your paint gun will dry paint very quickly)
-if you use regular paper and plastic when masking, you can get used to folding plastic and paper under itself instead of cutting it. Then use one piece of tape to secure it perfectly at the end of the molding. (if you only dry sand then you can keep the old tape on the moldings)
-Using 1 coat of clear coat (easy to do with high gloss clear coats, plus it drys quicker)The faster you work the less dust you will see using this method, so much so that the option to not use tack rags is one to be considered.
And yes I’m not having flawless jobs every time, but I can tell every single time if there’s going to be a problem after the first coat of base. So the idea of having to completely redo a job doesn’t really make sense. Something else that doesn’t really make sense is making spray out cards, I’ve done it before and it worked great but it can’t be the best way to do it.
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