if compound polish kills brighness of paint

Home / Forums / Main Forum / Paint and Refinish / if compound polish kills brighness of paint

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 27 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • June 5, 2011 at 7:36 pm #31129

    good day,

    i have noticed that when paint is sprayed on a car it looks very vibrant. it shines brilliantly though it make poor image due to orange peel. when we apply 3000 grit paper its shine totally disappears.now we apply compound polish to regain its shine but according to my experience the original wet like paint look never appears thoug one can see himself clear in image after compound. but wet like shine in color is lost after compound polish process.i put it in another term you can say that buffing kill 100% brightness of color and compound polishing regain only 80 % of original brightness.if you compound polish one door and compare it to the door which is untouched after paint you will notice that compound polished door is a little bit blur.
    may be its my perception. furthermore when polish fades away blurriness heightens.

    one guy on a forum suggested some tips but it is not applicable with hand . he says you have to cut clear with soap water and wax polish but u see one cannot cut clear just with wax.

    i wonder can anyone suggest some useful tips
    regards

    June 5, 2011 at 7:51 pm #31130

    are you using a finishing glaze after your compound? is the buffing pad/compound to coarse or not coarse enough? 3m have a great polishing system.

    June 7, 2011 at 3:56 am #31138

    Yeah i dont agree with that at all. If you have the right procedure for your sanding and buffing you will tegain 100% of the clarity.

    June 7, 2011 at 4:55 am #31139

    [quote=”jim c” post=20772]Yeah i dont agree with that at all. If you have the right procedure for your sanding and buffing you will tegain 100% of the clarity.[/quote]

    yea i totally agree, and it should look even better. Thats why you cut and buff.

    Anonymous
    June 11, 2011 at 5:27 pm #31179

    :agree

    I would think if anything you’d get a better shine removing any slight dieback from curing.

    June 16, 2011 at 6:59 am #31240

    Absolutely. I’d say it’s a combination of the polishing system (incl. pads, compound and machines) and the technique.

    Here’s a ’04 Maserati hood I refinished last week. The hood was denibbed with 2000 grit on a 3″ DA sander, then hit with 3000 trizact on the same sander (wet, both times). I then used Farecla G6 Rapid on their 6″ yellow pad at 1500rpm, finally followed up with Menzerna 106 Final Finish applied with a Cyclo dual head random orbital polisher and green pads. It looked this good in the booth, but when we took it outside, it popped even more!

    June 16, 2011 at 8:29 pm #31248

    I agree with the above, you just need to polish it more thuroughly after buffing.
    Some wax after buffing to make it look better but that’s just a
    band-aid approach to make up for not finishing the polishing properly.

    June 18, 2011 at 11:53 am #31310

    We never apply wax to fresh paint, as it is still de-gassing. Wax will seal up the pores which is not what you want.

    I tell my customers to wait 30 days before waxing. PPG say to wait 90 days.

    June 20, 2011 at 8:33 pm #31364

    What tool are you using to wet sand, paintwerks?

    June 22, 2011 at 1:00 am #31379

    My feeling is this, if you still see bluryness, or the panel doesn’t looks as good or better than you didn’t buff enough to get all the sand scrathes out before polishing. Or you didn’t let the panel dry enough before buffing, & the sand scrathes are comeing back thru, its real important that u learn thewindow of time for the paint u use before buffing.

    June 24, 2011 at 8:23 am #31427

    I have a small air-powered 3″ DA handheld sander, and I use that with the Farecla 1500 and 2000 discs, or the 3M Trizact discs in 2000 and 3000 grit. I also have a 3M hard block that I use with normal wet and dry paper. I always soak the paper in warm water for 30 min minimum before use, plus add a couple drops of liquid dish soap to the water.

    July 6, 2011 at 9:57 am #31556

    [quote=”lild” post=20978]My feeling is this, if you still see bluryness, or the panel doesn’t looks as good or better than you didn’t buff enough to get all the sand scrathes out before polishing. Or you didn’t let the panel dry enough before buffing, & the sand scrathes are comeing back thru, its real important that u learn thewindow of time for the paint u use before buffing.[/quote]

    i am sorry in fact i was busy in my office work so i did not come to the forum.i read all of your expertise( thank u all) but what lild say is more likely the case with me.though i have given three days to clear to dry but i think it demanded more.I noticed that some of scratches are reappearing on clear coat surface.( some scratches appeared beneath the clear from body repair area.it means clear has pulled them out,Why? i dont know the reason.may be we dont use sealant on repaired area)
    i am from pakistan i am not a professional painter rather it was my firs DIY.

    my other observation was like that when i applied the clear the car was so vibrant but as the clear dried, the brightness also faded away with it,not so much but 10% around.
    here in Pakistan Nexa system is used so i usedn exa paint and thinner(which u called reducer ,i think)
    the final shine is though not bad

    Attachments:
    July 6, 2011 at 4:29 pm #31559

    all this is happening because there was not enough flash time allowed on the paint. its shrinking back because solvents are slowly working their way out of the paint. after the basecoat went on if more time was allowed before clear then you would see alot less of this. cheap primer is also a big contributor as that will soak up more solvents. also priming over bodyfiller with too coarse of a sanding scratch.

    July 6, 2011 at 6:54 pm #31560

    [quote=”jim c” post=21152]all this is happening because there was not enough flash time allowed on the paint. its shrinking back because solvents are slowly working their way out of the paint. after the basecoat went on if more time was allowed before clear then you would see alot less of this. cheap primer is also a big contributor as that will soak up more solvents. also priming over bodyfiller with too coarse of a sanding scratch.[/quote]
    so what is your experience .how much time should be given to final coat to settle down and then spray clear.
    i sprayed the final coat (of color) and immediately after it i sprayed the clear.thats what i saw different people in real life and in videos.

    July 7, 2011 at 3:37 am #31562

    if your not using a professional paint booth and are air drying give your paint( base coat) a 20 minute flash time at least and you should be fine. i would also suggest using a sealer over your primer. my thought on this is the longer you give your material to dry will result in a better finish and no surprises later down the road 😉

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 27 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.