if compound polish kills brighness of paint
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- This topic has 26 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 13 years, 5 months ago by Alistair Kershaw.
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- July 7, 2011 at 6:13 am #31566
yes you never go right to clear. how much time really depends on alot of different factors. temp, humidity, airflow. most of the guys on this forum work in production shops and have the correct place to spray so they can chime in on their flash times. also production usually means that none of these guys sit around and wait too long either. time is money so most shops will get clear on as soon as they safely can. most restoration shops doing high end show quality stuff will wait anywhere from 4 – 24 hours before applying clear. most all guys i know personally spray the last coat of base, let it sit overnight and clear in the morning.
[quote=”smooth” post=21155]if your not using a professional paint booth and are air drying give your paint( base coat) a 20 minute flash time at least and you should be fine. i would also suggest using a sealer over your primer. my thought on this is the longer you give your material to dry will result in a better finish and no surprises later down the road ;)[/quote] :clappy thanks
[quote=”jim c” post=21159]most all guys i know personally spray the last coat of base, let it sit overnight and clear in the morning.[/quote]
so its a misconception that clear has be penetrated through paint for better adhesion.wet paint is most likely to be mixed the clear rather well dried.[quote=”kuki”]
so what is your experience .how much time should be given to final coat to settle down and then spray clear.
i sprayed the final coat (of color) and immediately after it i sprayed the clear.thats what i saw different people in real life and in videos.[/quote]I have never seen anyone spray Clear over basecoat with out letting it dry always give it 20-30min to let the solvents out .
I would Say without a doubt that is why it looks as it does. just as Jim says its doing (the man knows his shit) :teachNow all you need to do is scuff the clear with 600grit and respray your base color wait for 30min and spray clear out it again
it will be good practice and remember always follow the tech sheets not what you see in a video cus who knows what products or video editing there using
[quote=”Wydir” post=21163][quote=”kuki”]
so what is your experience .how much time should be given to final coat to settle down and then spray clear.
i sprayed the final coat (of color) and immediately after it i sprayed the clear.thats what i saw different people in real life and in videos.[/quote]I have never seen anyone spray Clear over basecoat with out letting it dry always give it 20-30min to let the solvents out .
I would Say without a doubt that is why it looks as it does. just as Jim says its doing (the man knows his shit) :teachNow all you need to do is scuff the clear with 600grit and respray your base color wait for 30min and spray clear out it again
it will be good practice and remember always follow the tech sheets not what you see in a video cus who knows what products or video editing there using[/quote]
Painting base over 600 with something that has already sunk back and possibly isn’t fully cured yet I wouldn’t advise…
A big factor to this whole thread as Jim said is temperature equally a big of a factor is the hardener used.. Given that it clearly hasn’t been baked I’d recommend putting it out in the sun for a few days before even touching it mate. Depending on what you want to accomplish go from there, if the sinkback bothers you then you will need to sand it all back and prime it again.
Putting more product on something that’s already quite thick and sinking back is only going to continue to do so :s
Two pack is heat dried not air dried, although enough time is still needed for solvents to escape…. So out in the sun let it fully cure and go off. And buff the absolute crap out of it… Or do it again.
Finish with finer paper and apply less product, big secret of the trade.
[quote=”Wydir” post=21163][quote=”kuki”]
so what is your experience .how much time should be given to final coat to settle down and then spray clear.
i sprayed the final coat (of color) and immediately after it i sprayed the clear.thats what i saw different people in real life and in videos.[/quote]Now all you need to do is scuff the clear with 600grit and respray your base color wait for 30min and spray clear out it again
[/quote]
:rofl
no no no .i am satisfied with the final outcome.even i have made severe blunders with that but my ACCORD shines more than show room cars do.Attachments:[quote=”Offdagun” post=21164][quote=”Wydir” post=21163][quote=”kuki”]
so what is your experience .how much time should be given to final coat to settle down and then spray clear.
i sprayed the final coat (of color) and immediately after it i sprayed the clear.thats what i saw different people in real life and in videos.[/quote]I have never seen anyone spray Clear over basecoat with out letting it dry always give it 20-30min to let the solvents out .
I would Say without a doubt that is why it looks as it does. just as Jim says its doing (the man knows his shit) :teachNow all you need to do is scuff the clear with 600grit and respray your base color wait for 30min and spray clear out it again
it will be good practice and remember always follow the tech sheets not what you see in a video cus who knows what products or video editing there using[/quote]
Painting base over 600 with something that has already sunk back and possibly isn’t fully cured yet I wouldn’t advise…
A big factor to this whole thread as Jim said is temperature equally a big of a factor is the hardener used.. Given that it clearly hasn’t been baked I’d recommend putting it out in the sun for a few days before even touching it mate. Depending on what you want to accomplish go from there, if the sinkback bothers you then you will need to sand it all back and prime it again.
Putting more product on something that’s already quite thick and sinking back is only going to continue to do so :s
[b]Two pack is heat dried not air dried, although enough time is still needed for solvents to escape…. So out in the sun let it fully cure and go off. And buff the absolute crap out of it… Or do it again.
[/b]
Finish with finer paper and apply less product, big secret of the trade.[/quote]little knowledge is a dangerous thing.that what i have proved in my first DIY.
now one guy on a forum which i can quote was saying that you can wax your paint after compound.it is old day theory that 30 days should be given to paint to release all gases etc.so on the 2nd or third day i wax the paint after compound. now this wax was very cheap one and had a very greasy effect. it is called Kiwi auto shine.price US$1Can’t really comment on wax as I haven’t used alot of it due to it contaminating the workshop and myself and stuffing up the next paint job… As another user said all wax does is leave a wet looking film on the surface making it look great, due to it not being polished correctly.All I can really say about wax is that if the vehicle has been polished correctly when you go to wax it you won’t notice a difference in the finish… Just a bad smell and itchy eyes 🙂
July 7, 2011 at 4:46 pm #31581fresh paint should not be waxed and it shouldn’t even need it anyway. give it a couple months in the sun then do it.
July 8, 2011 at 1:47 pm #31591One thing I think everyone has missed – which is if those are your only problems on your first attempt at a DIY paint job then you should be pretty pleased!
[quote=”alistair” post=21182]One thing I think everyone has missed – which is if those are your only problems on your first attempt at a DIY paint job then you should be pretty pleased![/quote]
with the grace of ALLAH i am pleased and satisfied.and most importantly i have learnt from the experts, on this forum.i have just recompound the car as i painted inside doors with matte color,so its fume were likely be spread over the exterior . i mildly compound the whole car..now look at the final shine
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