Inconsistant psi when spraying?
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plus as your painting, you can watch your psi, and if it drops you just adjust at the gun, and you don’t have to run to the wall to bump up.
so set the guage at the wall high 55-70 psi. and adjust the psi with the guns air flow adjuster to desire psi.
Do I need one of those wall mount air filters? I don’t have one maybe that is the problem? Or maybe I just don’t have the skills? WTF? Well Can you get orange peel on your paint or does that just happen on your Clear coat?
orange peel can happen with any clear. the fast the clear dries the more likely it will happen. also to low of psi will cause orange peel. up your psi to 40-45 if useing a hvlp and maybe a little reducer in the clear.
if all you have is that one gun, get a convental or a rp for clearing, imo hvlp’s suck putting clear on.No I have three guns two from harbor frieght the purple one with a 1.4 tip on it and a sata 3000 digital. So I thought that I should be able spray a clear cloat equivilant to oem factory? This has been a learning experiance. I will try to do it again today. Thanks.
Depending on the product there are different guns that are preffered.I find my Iawata 400 LV to have the best performance with any clear.Adjustment is key with some of them.Lild is right ..crank up your psi at the gun..it helps break up the product.And yes you need a regulator/filter at the wall.
O.K I will try it again.. but this time I will install a regulator and see what happens… I thought that sata recommens two bars or 29psi all the time? Is that not correct?
THANKS.Sata does recommend 2 bar or 29 psi. If the gun isnt spraying well at that psi you probably have a air volume problem. I have never had to run more psi to a Sata than what they recommended. That particular gun requires alot of volume.
I have had to run a little extra psi to Iwata’s but not much. maybe 2-5 psi more than recommended. Just remember you can over atomize a product. You don’t want all the solvent blown out of the paint before it hits the panel. Too much psi can also lead to poor film build.
Again hvlp isn’t your best choice for clearing but it will work.
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote] That particular gun requires a lot of volume.[/quote]
I’ve got to second this. The SATA 3000 is the most air hungry gun I’ve ever used. Unless you have an extremely healthy air supply you’ll struggle.That could possibly be the reason your pressure is dropping, as your air system simply can’t keep up the required pressure at the high flow rates this gun needs.
So then I guess my last questions would be? What is the best gun for shooting glass like clear? Would it make any difference if I used the 1.3 tip instead of the 1.4 tip for clear? Lastly Is the sata 3000 digital a bad choice for a beginner and is this a good gun for paint? Oh also if by volume you mean more clear or paint I fully understand and it makes perfect sense, since last night I had a major break through with the sata gun.. As I was tying to let the clear run and I started spraying alot slower to see what happend and their it was… Clear as glass!!!! But the part where I followed all the steps and tried to get it perfect, just looked like orange peal again??Thanks Sorry for all the questions but I think this will slove all my painting issues… Thanks again.
We are talking about compressed air volume.(CFM) If you are not getting enough air volume to the gun it will not work correctly.
Your nozzle size really depends on the material your spraying. There is no one size is better than an other. Some clears work better with a 1.4 and some work better with a 1.2 or 1.3. Really depends on the chemistry and solid content of the clear.
The gun you have is a great gun. Not the best choice for clear but it should produce a nice paint job. There is no certain gun used for laying clear like glass. That is up to the man behind the trigger. If your looking for a finish off the gun that looks like it was sanded and buffed your not going to get it. You can get a nice slick paintjob if you know what your doing, but if you want it perfectly flat it is going to need an electric shine.(buffer)
[b]gqken wrote:[/b]
[quote]So then I guess my last questions would be? What is the best gun for shooting glass like clear? Would it make any difference if I used the 1.3 tip instead of the 1.4 tip for clear? Lastly Is the sata 3000 digital a bad choice for a beginner and is this a good gun for paint? Oh also if by volume you mean more clear or paint I fully understand and it makes perfect sense, since last night I had a major break through with the sata gun.. As I was tying to let the clear run and I started spraying alot slower to see what happend and their it was… Clear as glass!!!! But the part where I followed all the steps and tried to get it perfect, just looked like orange peal again??Thanks Sorry for all the questions but I think this will slove all my painting issues… Thanks again.[/quote]I am not a pro, and I had similar experience just like you did, and I got it all fixed.
when I upgraded my air compressor just recently ( 60 gallon ), I have added an industrial level filter/regulator on the wall, after about 25ft of piping, and I attach my hose to the regulator filter …….. well, it is just a better Harbor freight filter/regulator with low cost, really. I also have another gauge attached to the gun so I can see the inlet PSI when trigger is pulled. My filter regulator is set high about 60psi ( I just look at my gun gauge when adjusting the one on filter ). Since I have got everything setup, my pressure has been stable even when the compressor kicks on.
I suppose that you have attached your hose directly to the compressor, which I do not know if that is the reason to your problem, but I was told not to do that. Also, if you are using cheap hose from Harbor Freight, replace it with a better one. I had couple of them before, and they drop psi like crazy. Once I replaced them with one from Lowes, it got a lot better.
Do not know about the orange peel in clear, but I always get bad orange peel when I was using my startingline gun for clear, or painting it when the temperature is hot and I am not using the right reducer for the temperature, so the clear drys faster. Not familiar with Sata gun so I can’t make any suggestion on it, but if it is a good gun, you should not get bad orange peel with it if your air pressure is good, and the temperature is not hot.
the sata is a good gun. when i switch from the sata jet 2000 to the 3000 (hvlp and rp) they both took some use to get too. especially the hvlp. it was my first one. i’ve learned that a hvlp is great for baseing not for clearing (any hvlp)as you found out with a hvlp you have to move really slow with it. it feels like for ever when clearing with it. now for clearing, a rp gun (now this is why i recomend a rp. if your going to make a profession out of this and work for a bodyshop, due to new epa rules national, you’ll be requried to use a rp or hvlp to paint with.) is great to us. it uses less pressure like 30-35 psi, and will lay clear down nicely. you still will have to go slow just not as slow. as for the tip, 1.3 or 1.4 is good. the main thing is what ever gun (brand) you use stick with it. as not all guns spray equally, and some take some real adjustment. once agian you see how to lay down clear with a hvlp, if you feel comfy with it stick with it. also i know your in school, but as you learn trail and error is going to be a common thing.
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