Input on TRANSTAR NO MIX vs MATRIX please
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Are the dt reducers better? Spray better? And yiu use the dx57 to activate the paint? Awesome tip on the 500 mix too! That stuff makes blending so much easier.
the dt reducers tend to stop omnis problems to die back later on now the plus does still seam to have chiping problems but I only see this when using the sv primer but Omni/shopline undercoats are not the greatest but when your doing real world bodywork not corporate fender swapping with a unlimited check book these lines will perform the job remember most of these guys wont admit that on the weekend when there working cousin sallys car at home they use these cheaper paint lines unless they BORROW PAINT FROM WORK !!!!! another thing to watch for is the Nason line will be adding alternates to there system
Keeps the color from dying back? I’ve never heard of that! And generally I use no sealer/undercoat and haven’t had any any comebacks due to chipping. I took an icar class at a mega bodyshop and one of their paint shops used sealer on every one amlnd the other shop didnt seal at all. Aside from hiding scrstches and easier coverage I can’t see a need to seal.
I looked on both transtars and matrix websites. Totally different campaigns. Transtars mention nothing about color match while matrix is really boasting about theirs. I know just bc a company says it doesn’t mean it’s true, but when tout fail to mention it at all that makes you wonder!
the die back issue shows in your clear later on now if your following the flash times and then some and using the 2-1 clear you probably wont see this or if your buffing we vary rarely buff just de nib and if you rush the Omni system it will die back a little another note the 4-1 Omni/shop line production clear will yellow on you
as far as sealer that’s your call with plus or dbc I use deltron primer no sealer no problems
[quote=”cromax1971″ post=33563] remember most of these guys wont admit that on the weekend when there working cousin sallys car at home they use these cheaper paint lines unless they BORROW PAINT FROM WORK !!!!! [/quote]
:wak :wak
I haven’t experienced any yellowing with the shop line 620 or 630 over the years. How long do you spend on denibbing each vehicle? I just use 1k grit 2k grit then compound and polish w 3″ buffer. Quick wax to remove any swirls works wonders. Saw where 3m made a neat little powered sanding pen a while back.
I’d like to find a nice high build easy sanding primer for under $100. I use Mar-hyde now and it’s EXTREMELY high build . But a little harder to sand and yellow so it can take a little more paint to cover sometimes.
In omni its the 270 that yellow’s after about 10 months for that matter just got reimbursement from PPG for 2000 clear yellowing after 8 months wouldn’t even replace with same clear gave me 4000 instead as far as denibing I use nort dry ice then trizact then presta 2 step system probably about a hour on something bad I am one a man band so I only average 20 cars a month so I spend a little more time on final details than some. A good primer for the money is Montana dtm put the light on 12 minutes and ready to sand I like to roll it masons 2k is nice to but I don’t roll it if you can get ahold off it I strongly recommend Montana’s light speed clear probably one of the nicest eco clears
Wow a non-isocyanate primer! Performs just as well as iso primers huh? Do you like rolling it just bc its less in the air or are there other reasons? Ive never experimented with roll on primer I always figured it’d leave an aggrevating edge to sand off. Im gna look into that clear. Also I see you’ve got a full down draft booth lucky guy! I notice you use that shiny blue masking paper do you notice any difference between that and the standard green paper? Maybe the overspray sticks to it better and doesn’t get blown off during clearcoating
It does a nice job I think they consider it a epoxy hybrid blue paper definitely less dirt but it also won’t let urethane soak through as far as rolling its not for large areas definitely takes some practice to keep from getting a edge but PPG has good info on rolling saves alot of money in masking and material but its not for everybody
Ive never had a problem with my clear soaking through but I feel like the color’s spray dust blows right off which COULD look like tiny bits of trash. Ill check prices on that and surely look into the roll on primer too. Ive got a job coming in Monday 2013 camry someone keyd one line down all but 3 panels! rolling seems like itd be perfect for that job. Thanks always looking for better faster and cheaper!
Just a quick note you can roll your shopline primer there’s a tech sheet on it. A skim of dolphin glaze two coats of roll and your done
Im using mar-hyde ultimate 2k now but I had thought about rolling it for this camry! Not sure if its rollable though. I’ll call them.
most 2ks are u usually just have to throw a splash of thinner in the mix or on key marks I know sounds crazy but at ppg school they call it European style feather repair glaze it wet sand glaze 600 grit seal it paint it ive tried it on small things works pretty good
Well its official guys I pulled the trigger. The district manager for transtar came down today and said theyll put the entire system in computer, scale, bank, table, $6,500 worth of paint and more for FREE! Without a contract and can drop it anytime. I couldn’t refuse. Ill report back here in color match and coverage. Before I made the decision I called another shop that does 20-25 cars a week and they said it works great for them. That the stuff is so concentrated you can paint a car with a quart and a front end with a pint. Thatll surely save some time in the booth! Guess well see. Installing it nexy week..
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