Interchangeable cap on my Iwata.
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I’d like to know conclusively if I can get the LVX cap for my LPH400-LV. Is the cap the only difference in the guns? Does the LV model change things?
I can’t shoot light metallics to save my life.
thanks all
What the crap…. that wasn’t anonymous….
This my question.
thanks again
NotBobYou can buy just the caps. I use the orange for 99 percent of what I do, but if one really fights me I will throw on the purple one. What size fluid tip do you use? I had to go to a 1.4 to spray most metallics. Something about the 1.3 didn’t like metallics. The biggest thing that helped me was to go 1 temp slower on your reducer on metallics and read up on the tds on what to do for drop coats.
I have really considered a sata or a tekna just because of the issues with metallics.Chuck
OK. Thanks
I have read that the LV tip is not well suited to fine metallics. I tried to spray a silver a couple years ago and it sucked, so now that I have to again I figure I need to tool up.
When you say you switch to purple when it fights you, what exactly do you mean?
I always use slow reducer and take my time. I pretty much only paint little stuff, and not very often. No rush for me.
Iwata makes a purple aircap for the lph 400. Spray at 8-10 lbs, 80 percent overlap, and about 4-5 inches from the panel. Sprays real slow, so unless absolutely necessary I just stay with the lvx aircap.What basecoat are you spraying? A lot of bases just don’t do real well metallic control. I spray Sikkens solvent and life is good with most colors, but as soon as I am forced to use DuPont chroma base and it’s silver or gold I am in for a workout.
Chuck
Martin Senour solvent. Honda silver – ‘Heather Mist’ or whatever the crap martha-stewart-sounding name they have for that color.
I am not real familiar with the Martin senior line but from what I can tell they have a premium line and a low cost line. Whenever possible, and especially with high metallic colors spring for the good stuff. Cheap basecoat is known for being difficult when it comes to silvers and golds. When spraying metallic colors finish sand everything with at least 600 grit and put down a wet bed on your blend panels. Don’t take it all the way to the edge. Sherwin Williams s66 is a good product to use for your wet bed. I imagine Martin senior has one that is equivalent. Use your slow solvent in your base and let each coat flash completely before putting on the next one, once your sealer area is covered then start your blend. If you notice your blend is not blending out like it should you can mix your base half and half with your s66 (the same stuff you used for your wet bed) and this can make your blend a little easier. Most sherwin type solvent basecoats like a drop coat as soon as your last coat goes on. But to be sure get a copy of the tds and see what it says. Also try doing a sprayout card before you start to see how close your color is to start with. If its not decent take it back and have someone tint it. I am sure someone else will chime in with some tips but try this out and let us know how it goes.
I definitely go for the nicer base coat.
Thanks for the info.
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