Just In Time…
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Hey Guys,
Thought I’d show off the latest rush jobs. The red car is the one that I experimented with UTech 3.5 on with the body kit and the rear arch repairs. The blue car had the passenger door completely redone just in time to leave for the car show in Portland! Had to mount the trim after we arrived the clear was still raw!
[img]http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo214/1turbobrick/Portland2011054.jpg[/img]
I’ve got a quick question…I know that you’re suppose to spray at around 29 PSI for the SATA 3000 RP – but I had quite the fog going on in the garage. A lot more than I was expecting (had a hard time seeing by the top of the door!). So I think that my cheapo air pressure gauge is not reading very accurately. I built a swivel connector with a cheap digital pressure gauge at the gun so that I’m not killing flow – then I adjusted pressure at the wall. It was having issues reading consistently…what do you guys use for this critical air measurement? I don’t really want a regulator at the gun and I’d like it if my gun regulator didn’t go to 160 psi.
So the Chinese stuff is going in the trash again – but what am I buying next :hunt
you are best off having a regulator at the gun.
If you don’t want to spend a fortune, the sharpe and devilbiss regulators are accurate and fairly inexpensive. I have a bunch of the regular devilbiss regulators and 2 of their digital regulators.
As far as the “fog” goes, an RP spraying wide open around 30 psi will put out a lot of material…without a ton of airflow it will tend to do that. If your paint is spraying/laying down nice, then your regulator may not be off much or at all.
whilst every tutorial by Sata for the RP says triggered at 2.5 bar i and lots of others find they spray better and produce far less overspray at 2.1 bar triggered ,your paint viscosity may also determine what pressure is best however 2.1 is what i clear at give or take a half a bar
compliancy regs state nothing higher than 2.5 BAR/36 psi inlet ie dynamic pressure however this doesnt mean those pressures are mandatory and you can go lower and still be complaint [or higher if your not concerned about regs]
i usualy set my line pressure at 2.5 off the wall which then gives me a triggered pressure of 2.1 or thereabouts depending on line length etc ,as long as your PSI is stable at the gun then your CFM will should fine ,i prefer lower line pressures to avoid surging except when using a diaphragm regulator at the gun which sorts any surging out ,i also find running high line pressures and chocking the gun will create CFM problems
from a sprayers point of view you should optimise your gun pressure to atomise the material properly whilst producing a correct fan pattern ,there is no exact PSI as such just a guide for reference which will put you in the ballpark ,hitting a home run is up to you though
hope that helpsPaul
I was running it pretty much wide open…so maybe I’ll back it off a turn or so to see how that works. I’m pretty sure my system is fine for volume as I’m running 3/4″ copper from the compressor (a two stage 60 gal 5hp unit) and have a 3/8″ hose with high flow connectors. This will all be me learning how to spray with this gun – and learning how to spray period. Every job is comming out better as I continue to improve my inside environment and air distribution.
You have a couple of choices,either get a sata adam gauge or a good gauge like a devilbiss at the gun.A sata rp 3000 with a 1.3 will work best at 32-34 psi using sikkens HS materials.Really who cares about overspray as long as you are atomizing the material and the you can get the overspray out of your spray area.You need to be careful with your wall regulator,depending on the length of you air hose you can have a pressure drop as much as 20psi between the wall and gun reg,30 psi on the wall reg will leave you with a job that looks like corn on the cob 🙂 Now you can see the difference between a slow hvlp gun(iwata) vs a Rp.You will get it figured out 😉
you should be running a min 9mm id line ,as for the sata RP i much prefer the 1.2 set up and lots of sprayers end up swopping thier 1.3 for a 1.2 set up,one it slows the gun down and two its leaner on material and produces less overspray imo it is by far the best RP set up for clears
i am now running a Bersch &Fratscher Optima 900i 1.4 for clears and i have to choke that back a fair amount ,i also use Walcom FXHA 1.2 ,i actualy sold off my Sata RP digital 1.2 after i got the Walcom HA,they are nicer to use lighter more ergonomic and spray at least as well plus spares are half that of Sata .also the pot lids dont crack up like Sata ,my Sata days are well and truly over ,unjustifiably too expensive and other guns perform just as well if not better
line pressure drop is proportional so yes the longer the hose the higher the static pressure of the wall should be ,however there is a limit and it is always best to run as short a spraying line as feasable as even when compensated for friction etc will reduce the CFM along with the PSI creating fluctuations when the gun is triggered
try knocking back your fluid ,this will do two things ,one reduce overspray and two increase control by reducing the speed you are spraying at,especialy usefull if your learning
Paul
It depends what materials you are using,spraying sikkens or u-tech like he is using would be next to impossible with a 1.2,I even find a 1.3 to small but to each his own.This has been beat to death but sata recomends running there gun wide open for best performance,if the gun is too fast get a smaller tip.I run a 1.4 in all my rp’s and they work fine for me but everyone sprays different.There is a learning curve and you will figure it out,once you are experienced you will be able to adjust your technique to compensate for speed without dialing in the fluid…..Now with that said old bondo will chime in :clappy :rofl
well sata would recomend a new set the price they sell them at LOL ,i know what your saying but they are still adjustable and chocking back does work if you arent willing to splash out on a new set up for every brand of paint you use
i am using lesanol HS extra at the moment and a Sata 2000RP 1.2 copes with it easily ,no extra reduction as does my Walcom 1.2 and funnily enough my ANI F1 mini gun 1.2 HPS,for panels i have even used a 1.0 in my Walcom HA
Paul
Of course you can cut it back,but that is not the optimum setup,sorry I disagree but that is why this site is great.I spray Sikkens Superior 250 with a Rp 2000,3000,4000,with a 1.4 sometimes a 1.3 when it is cold in the winter.But in the summer time it gets up to 37C/100F and there is no way you will spray a complete with a 1.2 with superior or any other sikkens clear.Everybody sprays differently and what works for me might not work for you or him,you just have to get comfortable.
Thanks for the tips guys. Here we go…a few pictures to help with the words.
Here’s the regulator – so I set the pressure here with the trigger pulled.
[IMG]http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab189/grpA_240/Painting/IMGP0370.jpg[/IMG]This is the completed expander/cooler network.
[IMG]http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab189/grpA_240/Painting/IMGP0371.jpg[/IMG]This is the adapter I made. Hydraulic fitting with a 1/8″ NPT nipple.
[IMG]http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab189/grpA_240/Painting/IMGP0373.jpg[/IMG]Here’s the cheap gauge…I monitor the pressure with this gauge not the gauge on the air dryer. That way I’m measuring pressure at the gun. I’ll dial up the pressure (spraying the UTech 4.0 clear) and see how that works. A little more trigger time and I’ll have it down…gotta get a furnace fan or something in the garage to get the fog out. The box fans are not cutting it.
You can spray utech 4.0 clear at about 28psi with a 1.3rp,it is not a high solid clear,but a medium solid and it dries quick, so you will be ok.Your set up looks great but I would ditch the princess auto digital gauge and get something better like a devilbiss digital,offshore has them behind the counter.You might want to look into a large cage fan or a 16-18 tubeaxil fan if you can afford it.Let us know how it works out.Also if you find the 4.0 clear a little on the fast side you can put in about 5-10% slow reducer.4.0 will be a great garage clear,I always sprayed it with a 1.4.
your guage is a guide only and even if it is out [but consistantly out] it is still only a guide ,think of it this way,you can have a reading in PSI PSIG BAR or MCG ie My Chinese Guage ,the guage doesnt change the physical pressure coming through only the format it reads it in so if your guage reads 30 whilst mine reads 28 whether yours is the acurate one or mine is then it matters not a jot as long as we both know where our paint/gun works best ,it has more to do with the ability to set up a gun correctly than working off predetermined pressures especialy as spraying conditions can vary from hour to hour therefore corrections have to be made from hour to hour day to day week to week and season to season along with corrections for materials etc etc etc ,this is where experiance trumps recomendations ,Sata recomend 2.5 BAR/36PSI triggered ,i have never used one that high and so it follows [acording to Sata] everyone here so far is wrong with recomedations around the 2.1 BAR figure
the only way you can be certain of your guage readings is to have it calibrated against a known acurate guage ,but all said and done that doesnt mean your gun will atomise any better or worse based soley on how acurate or not your guage may be
if the speedo on my car is out by + 20% it doesnt mean i am going any faster !
Paul
[quote=”Jayson M” post=20647]You can spray utech 4.0 clear at about 28psi with a 1.3rp,it is not a high solid clear,but a medium solid and it dries quick, so you will be ok.Your set up looks great but I would ditch the princess auto digital gauge and get something better like a devilbiss digital,offshore has them behind the counter.You might want to look into a large cage fan or a 16-18 tubeaxil fan if you can afford it.Let us know how it works out.Also if you find the 4.0 clear a little on the fast side you can put in about 5-10% slow reducer.4.0 will be a great garage clear,I always sprayed it with a 1.4.[/quote]
That’s the current plan – try to get either a furnace squirell cage or a large barell fan and see what happens. I’ll have to work something out for the winter…I’ve only got about 1/2 a kit left of the 4.0 but everything has turned out really well with it so far. Gotta get some better lights this summer as well.
[quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=20653]your guage is a guide only and even if it is out [but consistantly out] it is still only a guide ,think of it this way,you can have a reading in PSI PSIG BAR or MCG ie My Chinese Guage ,the guage doesnt change the physical pressure coming through only the format it reads it in so if your guage reads 30 whilst mine reads 28 whether yours is the acurate one or mine is then it matters not a jot as long as we both know where our paint/gun works best ,it has more to do with the ability to set up a gun correctly than working off predetermined pressures especialy as spraying conditions can vary from hour to hour therefore corrections have to be made from hour to hour day to day week to week and season to season along with corrections for materials etc etc etc ,this is where experiance trumps recomendations ,Sata recomend 2.5 BAR/36PSI triggered ,i have never used one that high and so it follows [acording to Sata] everyone here so far is wrong with recomedations around the 2.1 BAR figure
the only way you can be certain of your guage readings is to have it calibrated against a known acurate guage ,but all said and done that doesnt mean your gun will atomise any better or worse based soley on how acurate or not your guage may be
if the speedo on my car is out by + 20% it doesnt mean i am going any faster !
Paul[/quote]
Thanks Paul – I get the point, there is no gaurantee that the gauge is properly calibrated. Without the required experience (which I’m getting very slowly) it’s hard to get a real grip on making this “easy”. I think I’m getting pretty lucky as I’ve only had one corn cob job 😡 (that red with the Iwata) and the UTec polished so well that my buddy was looking at his car saying we (meaning me) should paint the entire car. It’s a Volvo 740…take it to the junk yard and get something less ugly was my answer :rofl . He’s got another car he has to work on – but that’s how well it worked :rock . I’ve got another fluid tip coming for the Iwata as it’s still a great gun and I don’t know how I would do small stuff with the SATA. That would take a lot more skill than I have.
Given that much of this stuff seems to be a rythm thing with the right setup I need to keep very detailed notes on what I’ve done because I don’t pull the trigger often enough. Your confidence can fade really fast when things change like paint systems, air flow, gun selection and others that I’ve swapped around lately. It’s time to settle in on a single setup and stop changing the tools to account for my inexperience. I’m pretty well setup right now – if I get this gauge thing fixed then I am the only variable left. I like it better that way!
i can highly recomend the Sata handling techniques DVD by Brian Lynch ,he is top of the game and the X House Of Kolor in house technician ,what he deosnt know about gun control and setting guns up isnt realy worth knowing 😉
Paul
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