Keeping Dirt Out of Paint
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I came across an article on http://www.basfrefinish.com that listed some good suggestions for keeping dirt out of the paint that I wanted to pass along and see what other suggestions are out there:
1) After cleaning the paint cup, let it dry upside down instead of wiping it with a cloth. This will
prevent lint from the cloth from contaminating the cup and the paint that goes into it next.2) Keep the surface of your mixing bench clean. An ideal table to mix on would have a stainless
top that could be cleaned regularly. A paper cover can cause paper fibers to stick to the gun
cup and end up in your paint job.3) Use metal paint sticks. Wooden sticks may leave wood resin and fibers in paint as solvents
break them down. Take care when using metal sticks , that they don’t damage the sides of
the vessel.4) Be sure that all lines and filters are changed at suggested intervals.
5) Do not keep any unnecessary parts in the paint area. They are a source of dust collection; if
the painter should rub up against it unknowingly the dust will hitch a ride with him into the
booth.6) Never use the spray booth hose outside the spray booth to do other work. Loose dust and
dirt may be returned to the booth when it is next used.7) Never do any sanding inside of the booth.
8) Try to keep the first six feet of the air hose off of the booth’s floor to avoid the floor dust from
being transferred to the hose.9) Keep the hose off of the floor when moving the vehicle in and out of the booth. A hose on the
floor can get run over causing the inside to break down and release particles from the inner
lining. (A good reason to use in line filters on the gun.)10) A final tack off should be done without blowing to prevent dirt from being moved to an area
that was already tacked off. While tacking large areas keep rotating the tack cloth. Expose as
much new surface area of tack cloth as possible. Change tack cloths frequently. They are
cheap when compared to redoing a paint job. Always tack your hand, the hose, and the spray
gun before starting a paint job to remove dust.11) Take care that there is no loose dirt or dried paint when using masking paper, spray suits,
and disposable wheel covers to ensure that dust is not brought to the job from their surface.Good post.
One thing that’s very important is to start with a clean car (have your detailer clean it before it comes into the shop). Then re clean it well after its prepped before being masked/going into the booth, taking particular care to clean all jambs. A waterbourne cleaner does wonders for this.
[quote=”Ben” post=34610]Good post.
One thing that’s very important is to start with a clean car (have your detailer clean it before it comes into the shop). Then re clean it well after its prepped before being masked/going into the booth, taking particular care to clean all jambs. A waterbourne cleaner does wonders for this.[/quote]
make sure he dresses everything really nice an dirt will be the last of your worrys 😛 your detailer really??? geez im not living that large :nothingtoadYou don’t have a detailer? I thought his name was Jack?
Number 8 certainly made a difference for me a while back. I used to just lay the hose on the floor when I’d finished, but a few months ago I started hanging it up instead and it did seem to make a difference.
I’m now using an air fed mask where the main hose plugs into my belt so only have the short hose from belt to gun to worry about, but I’m even tacking that off before painting now.
Number 10 is a new one on me (not blowing during final tack). Might have to give it a try
For those using PPS I always knock the cup and lid together to get the loose clear, paint off.
^^ I run mine through the gunwash machine weekly, giving them a good scrub.
One thing I can add is to use masking paper on wheels vs dedicated wheel covers that just get covered in overspray and crud that can blow into your paint.
[URL=http://s580.photobucket.com/user/jaysonm1969/media/SSPX0032_zps4a9ca9e5.jpg.html][IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0032_zps4a9ca9e5.jpg[/IMG][/URL]The wheel gets masked then I run another piece of 18″around the wheel well liner and mask it to the wheel,this will help keep dirt out.Great ideas guys lets keep them coming :cheers
Now that’s how to mask a wheel! :dnc
I hate wheel covers and tend either wrap them in fresh 36″ paper, or if I’m feeling generous I’ll back mask off the inner side of the wheel arch lip and cover with plastic sheeting.
If I can add a couple of things for the water users:
Don’t walk in front of the air blowers!
Keep them clean, covering them up with a small plastic bag when not in use, and when you first switch them on make sure they aren’t blowing directly at a panel just in case a bit of dirt or dust gets blown out.
[quote=”Andy T” post=34631]Now that’s how to mask a wheel! :dnc
I hate wheel covers and tend either wrap them in fresh 36″ paper, or if I’m feeling generous I’ll back mask off the inner side of the wheel arch lip and cover with plastic sheeting.
If I can add a couple of things for the water users:
Don’t walk in front of the air blowers!
Keep them clean, covering them up with a small plastic bag when not in use, and when you first switch them on make sure they aren’t blowing directly at a panel just in case a bit of dirt or dust gets blown out.[/quote]
Also for those using hand held blowers don’t aim the blower towards the floor.
Here’s one I did earlier showing how I like to mask wheels:
[img]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/2014-03-10165025Large_zpsf65fdda3.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/2014-03-10165036Large_zps8ce95fa5.jpg[/img]
definitely no expert at paint but can see a huge difference in dirt by how you situate stuff in the booth. I guess this is obvious to a lot of guys here but if I’m spraying a horizontal hood prone to dirt I want it a couple feet behind the filters where the air comes in with the less important stuff further back where the air goes out. Seems to make a difference I sure have a lot to learn.
Some tips from me……
1. Don’t paint in your shop clothes. Wear a spray suit. Wear disposable gloves. Keep your spraysuit clean by washing it regularly. Otherwise, I like to use the Tyvek disposable spraysuits. They cost $12 each and I change them out every second job.
2. [i]Wear the hood when you paint[/i]. The number of painters I see wearing a spray suit without using the hood baffles me. That’s akin to riding a motorcycle in full leathers without wearing a helmet!
3. Use compressed air to blow off your suit, face, respirator and eyebrows before you paint.
4. As mentioned earlier, use a tack rag to wipe the airline down regularly.
5. Wet the floor and walls down before spraying if you have a concrete floor booth.
6. Have all your materials you need set up and ready before you start. Minimise the amount of times you have to enter and exit the booth. Opening the door lets in dirt and can expose you to dust from the shop.
7. After you have finished clearing, resist the temptation to go back and admire your handywork. What’s done is done. Bake that sucker, [i][u]then[/u][/i] inspect it. And most importantly, if you have a customer watching you clear, [u]DO NOT[/u] bring them into the booth to look at the job before you’ve baked it.
8. PPS is good. Very good. It’s pricey, but it’s worth every cent.
9. Run some neat reducer through the gun after running gunwash through it.
10. As Ben mentioned, definitely clean the car before it enters the booth (including underbonnet/engine, inside door/trunk jambs, wheel arches, wheels and under the car). We have an underbody lance that can be hooked up to the pressure washer for this purpose.
11. I appreciate that it costs more from a labour perspective and sometimes budget precludes doing so, but try not to paint panels with moulds, lights, turn signals, badges, grilles and handles still fitted. These areas can and [u][i]do[/i][/u] easily trap dust. Plus you get a more thorough finish with better edge to edge coverage if done this way. Less chance of the clear edge lifting up too.
12. Not to pick on AndyT, but you should also backmask any holes such as turn signal openings, washer jet openings, [i]licence plate openings[/i] etc. The air pressure from the gun can dislodge dirt on the backside of the panel as it creates negative pressure/suction and it can pull dirt back into the job.
13. Always check that you’ve laid down your masking plastic down “Spray this side up”. The reverse side is not treated and paint will not stick to it. It can dislodge and flick back into the job…requiring a total rework.
14. Keep the entrance to the booth clean and clear. Mop the floor outside the booth entrance so you don’t track dirt/dust from the shop into the booth.
15. Keep all spray booth doors closed when the booth is not being used.
16. Don’t leave the airline in the booth when baking. The heat breaks down the inner lining of the line.
17. Run a line of 2″ tape around the glove cuff to the suit to seal things up. As an added benefit, on hotter days it will prevent any sweat dripping out of your suit onto the job.
18. Make sure to back mask the fuel filler opening. This will stop overspray getting in the recess and also any dust from that area being blown back into the job.
19. Use fresh mask paper and tape over your work horses/stands for every job.
That’s what I can think of ATM. Hope it helps.
[quote=”Paintwerks” post=34655]S
12. Not to pick on AndyT, but you should also backmask any holes such as turn signal openings, washer jet openings, [i]licence plate openings[/i] etc. The air pressure from the gun can dislodge dirt on the backside of the panel as it creates negative pressure/suction and it can pull dirt back into the job.
[/quote]Well spotted mate. You got me 😆
Normally we fill holes like that with a “snail”. Also useful for the holes where door handles have been removed and the other small openings you mention. A “snail” is a piece of soft foam tape, rolled up with the glue to the outside, making it look a bit like a snail shell. These can then be compressed into the hole and the glue holds them in place.
You’ve included some really good tips there, although we’d probably go out of business if I changed my paint suit every couple of jobs! I painted 17 cars today (60 panels in total), so that would be one hell of a lot of suits in a week :rofl
Holy Christ Andy your my hero :cheers Thats a shitpile of cars man :stoned :stoned
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