Lesonal Pro-Air

Home / Forums / Main Forum / Gallery / Lesonal Pro-Air

Viewing 5 posts - 61 through 65 (of 65 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • February 20, 2011 at 8:40 pm #28765

    I for one have seen superior 250 delam over u-tech polybase and it was done with plenty of flash time.That is a new one on me about use over solvent,like Joe said up here that goes against everything that is taught.My info comes from the Vancouver head instructor John Noakes who has also been teaching there since 84.These instructors all know each other as they meet a couple times a year in Atlanta for a big conference about there training centers,someone should get them on the same page.

    So why is there going to be a couple of clears that are the same??Superior 250 is not slow and air drys just fine,the next day it is not soft.so I don’t see the point of this new clear :stoned

    February 20, 2011 at 9:54 pm #28774

    i agree, you would think the info would be universal. everyone should be on the same page. i do know his harley has been done for a few years now over solvent base and still looks great. i have painted a ton of small parts so far with this stuff all over solvent with no issues. other than that i have no answers for any of you guys. i dont use much sikkens stuff, just the random product that is dropped of here to me. i can say of the product i have used they have all been good. i have had no issues with the 250 and airdry. it does dry fine but i personally think its a little slow. i dont really have a ton of airflow to pull the solvents out either. im just in a cross flow booth thats at 60-65 deg this time of year. obviously its going to harden up faster if baked. i have no idea if this acts different than the original stuff.

    February 20, 2011 at 10:00 pm #28776

    We air dry our last 2 jobs of the day, and they are just as hard the next day as ones that were baked.. I really dont think it buffs bad if you get on it with in 24-48 of air drying, but we have always used wool pads and they are more aggressive. I am the only one using 250 clear out of the 4 shops in this town on Autowave, they still cant figure out how to get it to buff.. But they only want to use foam pads…

    February 20, 2011 at 10:27 pm #28779

    Hey there is nothing wrong with a crossflow booth,one of my favorite booths was an old devilbiss cross flow that was pressurized and had a 1,000,000 BTU air makeup,I got some damn nice paint jobs out of that old girl :clappy If I had my own shop that is what I would install,simple and it works well with waterborne.Jim I’m wondering if you used the old 250 or this new version? If you add accelerator LV to superior it dries pretty fast and doesn’t affect gloss at all,unlike HS +. Just for kicks why don’t ya post some pictures of your booth 😉

    February 21, 2011 at 12:06 am #28785

    jay, i have never tried the old 250 so only thing i can go by is this new stuff. like i said i have no idea if its the same or they made changes other than mix ratio. i have not tried accelerator in it yet. i’m sure it would help. really, to be honest i like the fact that it is slower. flows out nice. i’ll see if i can get some pics up of the booth later this evening.

    joe, that is true i have to use foam on bike parts simply for the control. wool is impossible. cars i compound with wool. maybe i am just used to the spi universal clear which almost buffs itself. 😉 . you probably just need to nail down the right buffing system for that clear and i’ll shine up easily. you guys play with it every day and probably have the right system all worked out, or this clear i have is just different.

Viewing 5 posts - 61 through 65 (of 65 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.