Looking for advice on how to speed up body work.
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[quote=”gtome” post=31531]You can laugh all you want but youve seen the pics….im freekin getting there with that gun!! And you know how I feel about the primer gun![/quote]
at 15 psi, and a fan half open your getting there really slow. And yes weve seen the pics. not impressed.
I sprayed at 15 psi but my fan was full, and it looked good none the less (even though I know know it wasnt correct practice and havent done it since). And lets be honest, the pics I post are as good or close to it as anything else I see around. Also, the other guys posting pics have sprayed a million times more than i have. I dont expect to be able to impress anyone, let alone a bunch of pros for quite a while. Dont get enough gun time to make that happen.
Thanks for the help guys. Got it done and under time. Now if I can get it back on without jacking it up. Turned out OK. Not great, but not too bad either. Thanks again for all your support! Had a really tough time seeing today. Must be time for a booth repaint and replace the light covers.
Gtome, I agree if this place isn’t here for us all to learn from each other, then what is it, so we can all act like we know it all? Seems like it maybe. Epic battle goin’ on here. A guy I used to work with used to say “keep it simple, stupid.”. I take it as stick to the basics. Proper application, Get your metal decent, Get your filler straight, Pinhole coat with putty, and a minimal amount of primer. Don’t be afraid to post for help, just avoid the people with the giant egos weighing them down. lol :headsmack:
So far this has been an interesting read.
Look, the first thing u need to do is separate your self & the old dude. Your not him, & as jay has pointed out to the op, with practice speed will come. I have one body tech that does a lot of body work with a da, a few that use does it by block. Like ben has said it’s what u feel comfortable with using. Yes we all take a few short cuts here & there, like painting over primer, sand with 400. It can be done, just takes a few more coats. So the best thing to do is not worry about what the old guy does or how much faster he does it. Work @ your pace.I used to paint the same way the old guy does, argued about here when i joined, not saying i was right or wrong, but found out things can be easier buy changing a few simple steps in your work. My life as painter has been so much easier since joining this site. Still learning a few things here & there. Just remember if its suggested to try some thing, it doesnt hurt, if u like it great if not, then try something else.
I don’t know every thing, i just claim i do. :ban?
Yeah it will work out. I learn more everyday. Some days less than others though! Like today I used a grey scotchbrite and scuff paste to prep the new bumper cover. Didn’t need to seal it because it came in black primer. But I really should have blocked it because it ended up have a slight little line in it that I missed. Bummer but all I can do is modify how I handle it next time.
And yeah I shouldn’t worry about what he does, but its hard because he can really whip this stuff out quick and NEVER has a comeback. But I am going to start doing things the correct way and just hope the speed comes. I am doing OK on this car. 15.5 hour repair and I am into it for 7.5 hours. Just have to nib it and put the grills in the bumper and put the bumper back on. I’m guessing 3 hours tops to do that. So I am ahead of the game so far.
Ok a new bumper primed or bare plastic MUST be sealed,pretty sure that was mentioned before.How long have you worked with the old guy a couple of months?It can take awhile before comebacks start,sometimes up to a a year :whistle:
I know brother. You guys told me that before, and I wanted to. But hes the boss and said no sealer so…
But the old guy left and a while later the real boss showed up and I told him things were going to start being done correctly, and if he, or the old guy didnt like it, he could go ahead and fire me. He said he was glad to hear me say I wanted to do things right. So we will see how much of a fit the old guy throws when I start doing things “my” way.
The old guy was here for 8 years, left for 7 months, and is now back. And the owner told me nothing ever came back that he did. Thats all I can go on.
Im hoping that I can learn correct procedure here and tech sheet/manufacturer recommendations, and some hands on experience from the old guy and merge them. I just need to get a rhythm going and should be fine.Jayson (or anyone else) do you know where I could find some paperwork that states the bumper should be sealed. Im gunna need proof of this kind of thing when I make my case.
Contact your ppg 1-800 tech line and ask about Standard operating procedures for refinishing new bumpers.They can probably point you in the right direction for literature to prove it.Basic operations like this are covered in a certification course.
Thanks man. The old guy and our PPG rep butt heads like crazy. So I know his word will not be good enough.
I looked at a DBC tech sheet earlier and it says to prep for paint with 400-600 grit paper, so i wont be able to use that to get him to use 600 grit, or convince the boss I need to.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/docs/ppgdbcp.pdfYou need to stop worrying about him and just do your job.A certification course would pretty much end all the BS,just do your own thing and tell him to stay in his stall and keep his piehole shut.Nothing worse that somebody who says “I have been doing it this way forever bla blah blah” but in the end its still wrong :pcorn: 500 is a good grit,you can base over that and not have issues,Norton rotolo foam backed paper works great for prepping blend panels or 800 on a palm sander(a DA or dual action sander)should only be used for rough sanding or stripping.
Yeah the problem is the boss bows to him. So really I dont have a lot of say in it. But I think if I just do my thing and get shit done, and it looks great, they wont say anything at all.
I didnt know there was a difference between a palm sander and a DA? Will have to look into that. We use some variation of the foam backed paper. Its listed as fine and superfine, I believe its 3m. I will have to look and see what kind of grits they list them as. Is a grey scotchbrite and scuff paste acceptable to prep a blend?
yes it will work fine.A da is the old school sander that you can lock the weight on the bottom and it will be like a grinder,put the weight back and its an orbital sander.A palm sander is like a dynabrade.
Ok cool. I have a 3/32 throw that I got to do wetsanding clear with that never worked for me. So I will probly be using it with an interface pad to prep blends etc.
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