Matte Finishes
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So, I have a friend who wants me to paint a project for him in Matte/Satin black. I plan on using clear with a Matting Agent rather then a single stage low gloss black, My question is, how do you get rid of any imperfections? I have only ever done smaller scale projects with low gloss clear, but it’s my understanding it’s really hard to get to lay out smooth and even looking on larger surfaces. I have even ran into this problem doing bumpers for fleet trucks with the matting agent. My coats are nice and even and before flash when it looks wet looks great, but once it flashes it looks blochy. Assuming I manage to get it to lay out smooth looking how do you go about nibbing/buffing it? I know it brings gloss back, so how do you get rid of any dirt? Is there special compounds? I have a feeling that we will be seeing low gloss colors coming from OEMs more often pretty soon. There has to be some solution to these issues, any one had any luck?
Akzo Matt select works kick ass.
I just did a complete hummer Ferrari blue 15% gloss .Is that a specific clear that Sikkens makes, or are you just using a matte agent in a regular clear? I have both a Sikkens Autowave mixing system, and a Nexa Autocolor system at my disposal. I have some Autoclear HS+, and the Sikkens matting agent. Is that what you used,, what product exactly? I planned on using PPG DC4000 clear .with PPG OneChoice matte additive, just because thats the clear I usually use. I always did like Sikkens clear through, so if you have had good results with that combination, I have no objections to using it. Any tips on how to spray it, just 2 wet coats? I know some of the matte clears want the last coat to be medium wet to help with the blotchyness.
I used matte select which is an additive in autoclear HS+ 2 pack. We use HS+ Through MPU .matte select can be used in other Akzo clears. Any how it dose spray very we’ll very consistent. The hummer I did I based put one coat of HS+ on short baked that .
Nib sanded that Then hit it with three coats of HS+ with matte select additive. Worked out kinda like flow coating. Clean level texture and gloss. Painted in pieces jambs and all. Roof and hood are HUGE. Pretty much sprays like normal clear. I have done wrangler hard top with same product just over raw base with great success . Great on large bumpers to . Down side is it’s not a fast process. Can’t mix any more than u need for one coat when in warmer weather. Has to be totally flashed flat uniformly before each coat. 20 ta 30 min flash before bake. Not sure how to post pics or I wouldI can understand using matte clear on claddings or bumpers to match oem,but when it comes to flat/satin/semigloss black I prefer single stage with matting agent.It works much faster and more accurate for old Gm/ford/chrysler muscle car restorations.Think about 4-5 laps with base and matt clear or 2 coats with single stage,easier to keep clean and it will dry faster to be out of dust quicker…… :stoned
:stoned :stoned [quote=”Jayson M” post=34921]I can understand using matte clear on claddings or bumpers to match oem,but when it comes to flat/satin/semigloss black I prefer single stage with matting agent.It works much faster and more accurate for old Gm/ford/chrysler muscle car restorations.Think about 4-5 laps with base and matt clear or 2 coats with single stage,easier to keep clean and it will dry faster to be out of dust quicker…… :stoned[/quote]
My bad I thought it was a larger project other than trim or accent
I agree with Jayson for satin black single stage has a way better look to it than base clear no mater how good the painter IMO . It is also more durable and holds out better.
Really? The single stage is more durable? I wouldn’t have expected that, even if it was catalyzed. I wouldn’t think it would hold up to UV as good as something with clearcoat. I could deff see how it would look better/be easier to apply though.
Think about it for a second,its a urethane product basically the same as clear but it has pigment added.I have many single stage jobs out there that are over 20 yeas old and they still look good.
Good call sage, but the reason I say that the single stage is more durable is because when matt clear gets spider web scratching in it it shows up as white swirls. Where as single stage won’t do that. Most of the factory pack Ralleye blacks are supper tuff paints. Iron makes one that’s super durable. The Standox one is awsome too.
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