More of what I’ve been up to…
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- This topic has 25 replies, 14 voices, and was last updated 13 years, 10 months ago by dave.
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[quote=”Jayson M” post=18758]Where did you take your course candyman?I took mine at the Vancouver training center.I could see 50% for a tri-stage,but for a regular low hiding color like a red pearl that would be a diaster.Interesting info,let us know what your book says,it has been over 2 years since I took that course.The 1.4 HC stands for hot climate,it doesn’t break it up as much and I think it is slightly larger than a 1.4.[/quote]
Our suppliers have a mini training center out here,John comes out every 3-4 months or so and teaches sikkens courses.
He said this was the first advanced application course he taught,it was mainly tri-coat application,I think it was worth 6 I-CAR points too.February 28, 2011 at 6:38 am #28903i dont see why anyone would reduce a pearl 50%. I only reduce them 20% and have not had one problem. With metallics I usually start at 35%.
February 28, 2011 at 6:41 am #28904John Noakes knows his stuff that is for sure 😉 Our supplier does the same thing,hopefully they will offer us the new course as well.Are you in Winnipeg? That is where John is originally from.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=18775]John Noakes knows his stuff that is for sure 😉 Our supplier does the same thing,hopefully they will offer us the new course as well.Are you in Winnipeg? That is where John is originally from.[/quote]
I’m a half hour outside the city,and yeah,he knows everyone out here it seems,good guy,he’s been around,you can tell in his classes.reducing up to 50% in pearls that sounds different from wat ive been told. I reduce 10% for solid color and 20% for
metallic and pearls strictly. i overreduced a beige color similar to the one in bens pic by about six or seven grams and the color swam bad. after that I always try to keep it dead accurate. I do agree though that first coat has to be wet nice and wet for your metallics to flow out. I only try not to put it on too wet when using the crossflow with no heat, as it takes a VERY long time to flash lolMarch 1, 2011 at 6:29 am #28931I will reduce this time of year for metallics and pearls 20%,solid colors 10%.30% will improve spraying the hard metallics,I still can’t see reducing a pearl 50%,coverage would be an issue and runs.Now when doing a tri stage,your effect color will spray better with 30% and up,666 is very thick.I did a ford expedition code UG white pearl and reduced the effect color 40% and it was easier to spray and went on thnner,so maybe this is what he means.Summer time I go to minimum 30% for a tough metallic with CC,DC,EC.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=18802]I will reduce this time of year for metallics and pearls 20%,solid colors 10%.30% will improve spraying the hard metallics,I still can’t see reducing a pearl 50%,coverage would be an issue and runs.Now when doing a tri stage,your effect color will spray better with 30% and up,666 is very thick.I did a ford expedition code UG white pearl and reduced the effect color 40% and it was easier to spray and went on thnner,so maybe this is what he means.Summer time I go to minimum 30% for a tough metallic with CC,DC,EC.[/quote]
Checked the handbook we got for the advanced tri-coat course,and it says 40% for the pearls.[quote=”5LEater” post=18800]reducing up to 50% in pearls that sounds different from wat ive been told. I reduce 10% for solid color and 20% for
metallic and pearls strictly. i overreduced a beige color similar to the one in bens pic by about six or seven grams and the color swam bad. after that I always try to keep it dead accurate. I do agree though that first coat has to be wet nice and wet for your metallics to flow out. I only try not to put it on too wet when using the crossflow with no heat, as it takes a VERY long time to flash lol[/quote]
Try 30%,I never use 20% anymore,results will be 10x better,guaranteed.- AuthorPosts
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