More of what I’ve been up to…

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  • February 28, 2011 at 4:05 am #28892

    great stuff u got going on there 😉

    February 28, 2011 at 4:05 am #28894

    [quote=”ding” post=18761]dont worry about the mottling issue ben. After all you are painting GMs now :whistle:[/quote]

    My thoughts exactly…:rofl

    February 28, 2011 at 4:52 am #28900

    [quote=”ding” post=18761]dont worry about the mottling issue ben. After all you are painting GMs now :whistle:[/quote]

    Yeah really…I saw a pearl white caddy on the showroom floor a while ago and it looked horrible…

    February 28, 2011 at 5:57 am #28902

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=18758]Where did you take your course candyman?I took mine at the Vancouver training center.I could see 50% for a tri-stage,but for a regular low hiding color like a red pearl that would be a diaster.Interesting info,let us know what your book says,it has been over 2 years since I took that course.The 1.4 HC stands for hot climate,it doesn’t break it up as much and I think it is slightly larger than a 1.4.[/quote]
    Our suppliers have a mini training center out here,John comes out every 3-4 months or so and teaches sikkens courses.
    He said this was the first advanced application course he taught,it was mainly tri-coat application,I think it was worth 6 I-CAR points too.

    February 28, 2011 at 6:38 am #28903

    i dont see why anyone would reduce a pearl 50%. I only reduce them 20% and have not had one problem. With metallics I usually start at 35%.

    February 28, 2011 at 6:41 am #28904

    John Noakes knows his stuff that is for sure 😉 Our supplier does the same thing,hopefully they will offer us the new course as well.Are you in Winnipeg? That is where John is originally from.

    February 28, 2011 at 9:01 am #28906

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=18775]John Noakes knows his stuff that is for sure 😉 Our supplier does the same thing,hopefully they will offer us the new course as well.Are you in Winnipeg? That is where John is originally from.[/quote]
    I’m a half hour outside the city,and yeah,he knows everyone out here it seems,good guy,he’s been around,you can tell in his classes.

    March 1, 2011 at 5:58 am #28929

    reducing up to 50% in pearls that sounds different from wat ive been told. I reduce 10% for solid color and 20% for
    metallic and pearls strictly. i overreduced a beige color similar to the one in bens pic by about six or seven grams and the color swam bad. after that I always try to keep it dead accurate. I do agree though that first coat has to be wet nice and wet for your metallics to flow out. I only try not to put it on too wet when using the crossflow with no heat, as it takes a VERY long time to flash lol

    March 1, 2011 at 6:29 am #28931

    I will reduce this time of year for metallics and pearls 20%,solid colors 10%.30% will improve spraying the hard metallics,I still can’t see reducing a pearl 50%,coverage would be an issue and runs.Now when doing a tri stage,your effect color will spray better with 30% and up,666 is very thick.I did a ford expedition code UG white pearl and reduced the effect color 40% and it was easier to spray and went on thnner,so maybe this is what he means.Summer time I go to minimum 30% for a tough metallic with CC,DC,EC.

    March 1, 2011 at 7:55 am #28934

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=18802]I will reduce this time of year for metallics and pearls 20%,solid colors 10%.30% will improve spraying the hard metallics,I still can’t see reducing a pearl 50%,coverage would be an issue and runs.Now when doing a tri stage,your effect color will spray better with 30% and up,666 is very thick.I did a ford expedition code UG white pearl and reduced the effect color 40% and it was easier to spray and went on thnner,so maybe this is what he means.Summer time I go to minimum 30% for a tough metallic with CC,DC,EC.[/quote]
    Checked the handbook we got for the advanced tri-coat course,and it says 40% for the pearls.

    March 1, 2011 at 7:58 am #28935

    [quote=”5LEater” post=18800]reducing up to 50% in pearls that sounds different from wat ive been told. I reduce 10% for solid color and 20% for
    metallic and pearls strictly. i overreduced a beige color similar to the one in bens pic by about six or seven grams and the color swam bad. after that I always try to keep it dead accurate. I do agree though that first coat has to be wet nice and wet for your metallics to flow out. I only try not to put it on too wet when using the crossflow with no heat, as it takes a VERY long time to flash lol[/quote]
    Try 30%,I never use 20% anymore,results will be 10x better,guaranteed.

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