Mustang Convertable Complete
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Gosh you are to cheap! I think you could charge a bit more and still be more than reasonable.. I can tell you that we wouldnt touch that for less than 6-7k. I would think around 3k would be more fair to yourself.. You can always start with a higher price and come down, but its hard to go the other way.. Dont short change yourself..If one day you get a shop people will want you to work for those low prices, and now you have more over head..
Joe I started off at $2800 and came down to $2500.. The car itself is not worth the 6-7 grand, so i would not get the work
Ryan, I used to use nothing but PPG, then I went to another jobber in town called stories off of Ulrich road right off of Fern valley road beside the Mcdonalds there…
They used to carry Pro spray which I loved, however they said it was too expensive for some of their shops so they dropped it and went with Metalux which is a African owned company,.
they were supposed to have the extra tint in for this job but then they were still short,so they mixed it in GenStar which is owned by Northstar which is owned by someone else etc etc etcI have used the Genstar when the dropped the Prospray and it sprays and smells like PPG.. So I have a gallon of it setting on the bench right now.. I got it for $260 with my discount.. Not bad I dont think or is it too expensive in your opinion??
Today is the first day I get to work on the car.. My grandma died and I spent everyday since then at the funeral home doing that gig.. Now at least I can focus on something positive 😉
Well something is better than nothing.. Just hate to see you bust your ass for little.. But I also understand you have to do what you have to do.. That price on the base doesnt sound bad, as long as it covers okay 🙂 Keep us posted….
Sorry to hear about your grandma.
Yeah, $2500 is rediculously low. I hope the owner understand this and doesn’t expect you
to work on his other vehicles at such a discounted price. Keeping a log book to track your
time and expenses will be extremely helpfull.And they way you do your work, the materials are much too good for this job. Even if they’re
left overs. I’d reduce the Universal 15% and shoot 2 coats and call it done. Well, then there’s
the cut and buff to consider.I don’t think that price is bad although I have never used that product before. I have heard its PPG also. I would imagine that a gallon of Dupont would be more than $260 though. I will check my computer on monday at work and see.
Is Metalux paint any good, I have never used it either?
Sorry to hear of the death in your family!
Update, I spent one day on the car now so far.. Probably around 9 hours give or take a bit including eating twice and a little time with my family..
I was able to get the exterior sanded I would say to 95%… there are edges, nooks and crannies that need scuffing etc.. but for the most part it is ready for the bodywork/dings to be fixed before prime..[IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd258/BondoKing/96%20Stang%20Convertable/100_4815.jpg[/IMG]
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a few more
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Then a couple rough variations of how the hood could be when its finished.. The stripe will be done in paint and not a decal.. Took me forever to get that dang thing off with a heat gun and razor blade :S
[IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd258/BondoKing/96%20Stang%20Convertable/100_4819.jpg[/IMG]
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I wanted to get it all sanded and the exterior dings repaired, but I ran out of time, which is normal around here..
Han, I think the only way I can reduce the clear and get away without buffing would be to make a makeshift pressurized booth.. I think I could do this fairly easy, however I dont know if the cost and time to make it and get it right would be better than just sanding and buffing..
I was thinking of using something like PVC, as i know somewhere on the net I have seen this done, but then I got to thinking how is it going to keep from rolling around since the pipe is round..
[b]
I dunno what do all of you guys think?? [/b]I dont mind spending the extra for the tubing since its going to be re used over and over again.. the plastic and filters will be the only expendable parts of the “booth”..
There are some decent looking makeshift booths on AB101. How long does it take you to sand polish? Though i’m much more efficient now,
this would still take me around 20 hours; this is one aspect that MANY shops seem to overlook.If not a full booth, i’d remove as much from the garage as possible or cover them up. And maybe rig something up around the garage door
opening. So, you’re basically making one wall. And it looks like you’ll need to have the intake and exhaust on that wall. This would be much
quicker than dealing with all 6 sides.And minor dust nubs are easily sanded out with 2000. Making it easier to polish too.
How do you normally paint in the garage?
Han when I first moved in here from my old house where I had a shop, I tried hanging plastic all around including the door and put fans at the bottom of the door for exhaust.. Air was sucked in over top the plastic.. It gave a cleaner work, but still ended up with some trash.. I know the intake air was not super clean but it was best I could do in crunched time then
I am looking to keep from buffing… On collision work, I will buzz over it with a P1200 3M finishing disk and then buff from there.. Its faster than hand sanding with 2000 in my opinion and it buffs out easier than that too…
Normally I just clean out the garage floor, wipe down the walls a day or two before along with the cabinets.. No way I am going to pull everything out all the time for paint work,.. Just cant justify that, as I have allot of cabinets and counters that are all secured down to have places to put stuff..
Its a dirty environment, I just want to get away from buffing the collision stuff is all.. since this is yellow and every spec will show up especially once you start laying the clear, I was thinking maybe I could pull a makeshift booth off and keep everything clean for one job.. Tear it down and not use the gig again until I was doing an all over clear job :wak
Update.. Yesterday I still did not get done what I wanted to again, but there are some things that cant be ignored even when I am on a deadline.. I cut grass and watched the kids for a couple hours, that kept me from getting to the jambs and under the hood..
This morning I am watching 2 of my kids while momma takes another to the doctor for a checkup :unsure:So anyways,. some progress was made yesterday
First I had to repair the smc damaged hood.. and of course once I started grinding on the spots that were damaged I went right thru it :cens :cens .. I shouted at Bondo early in the morning and he agreed that the best fix was resin and matte. Finding it turned out to be a chore.. I finally found a jobber with Evercoat panel adhesive/filler.. One of the guys who does tech work for them assured me I could use this as resin and also use cloth/matte along with it, so I did.. sanded great and did a fantastic job as far as I can tell
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Holes were filled with matte also, then I had pre cut the matte I was going to lay over the whole edge to give it more strength and hope to prevent mapping
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Filler/resin was spread over area, then matte laid down, then more f/r..
[IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd258/BondoKing/96%20Stang%20Convertable/100_4840.jpg[/IMG]
It was blocked down pretty straight and cloth was getting sanded out here and there.. this is pic before more f/r was added..
[IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd258/BondoKing/96%20Stang%20Convertable/100_4845.jpg[/IMG]
Now the second smear of this f/r..
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This will get blocked down with 80 grit again and then as long as we are good it will get G2’d along with the rest of the hood.. I will not spread regular filler over this or glaze as I have had a bad bad experience with smc and stuff jut peeling or bubbling up a few months down the road even when i used supposedly compatible products :blush:
Then my favorite thing.. The owner tells me how straight the car is and how it does not need any bodywork.. I just smiled when he said that, as I already knew it would need work,. They always do
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Well thats all folks.. It will be noon before I can get on this since my wife is gone yet again.. The joys of parenthood 😉 😛
Looks good! They never are straight! Should have it knocked out in no time at this rate 🙂
Car is prepped.. but Im too tired to set here and post up pictures… maybe in the morning I will take the time.. Engine bay was pretty dang easy to clean up.. Man this thing has kicked my butt this week.. Long long hours, but the pay off will be nice;)
Until the next time..
Oh yeah, I forgot also going to dye the top on this for him now.. for a little extra :woohoo:
No body work necessary… Ha! Maybe you should have painted it as is?!
Yeah, I wouldn’t use the Universal on this one either. Unless, he was willing to pay a little extra!
Did you tell him the sanding and buffing is extra too? 🙂Looking great B-King.
Jim and I have been talking about clear. I plan to use it on my Golf soon. What do you think about their Base Coats? I was planning on buying my base there too.NO I always include the sand and buff since i get trash like I do.. If I could keep it clean I would not sweat buffing it, but you already know the gig there :blink:
The engine bay is only going to get 1 coat of clear.. and trust me I know first hand thats more than the factory does 😉 ..
Jambs are getting 2 coats
Exterior is getting 3 coats ( only to ensure enough mils after the buff )
have ran the idea thru my head of 1 coating the jambs,. but I have never done that.. well I have never 1 coated anything but then again Im not doing a muscle car either 😛
Wonder what ole Bondo would do :exci :rofl
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