My personal 1990 GTUs RX7 restoration
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I bought this car back in Feb. and started driving it everyday.
I am now in the process of getting another vehicle to drive and putting this one under the knife.
I already pulled out the large dent in the drivers rear panel with my stinger, I need to hammer/dolly then shrink the metal a little more before a skim coat of filler. Enjoy and I will post as the project progresses, I also have a spare motor that is being put together so I may paint the engine bay while the motor is out.I do have another complete rear body if I need to cut and weld the quarter on
:rock
Getting some OEM Turbo II side skirts primed for paint
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltGw9VBzj3A&list=UUqrR7tU7LoQm-OHhVbUWEmw&index=3&feature=plcp
Painted, I used PPG DBC and 4010 for clear.Well good job but usually Etching Primer is for Bare metal applications. You should of used an Adhesion Promoter like bulldog.
hopefully it holds up for ya
keep us posted!
[quote=”Wydir” post=27010]Well good job but usually Etching Primer is for Bare metal applications. You should of used an Adhesion Promoter like bulldog.
hopefully it holds up for ya
keep us posted![/quote]
Thanks Wydir,
I have used this self etching prime on plastic parts many times, also these skirts were already painted so I primed over the original paint, not directly onto plastic.
the SEM gives enough flex radius, have never had anything de-laminate or come back in over 10 years. I just make sure to sand thoroughly for proper adhesion. The next step is swapping the engine but before I will wash the engine bay out thoroughly with brush and orange cleaner. Once the car is running nicely again I will refinish the whole exterior before I put the skirts on. 185k miles and the original engine is finally going, still runs strong so if any of you guys think “WANKLE” motors are unreliable come talk to me. 👿As of now the car is waiting for $$$$ of parts.
I have the injectors ready to go out and be balanced/cleaned/rebuilt
Complete competition engine/trans/diff mounts
12lb alu fly with S/S disc and pressure plate
coilover suspension
stainless braided oil lines
Full dual primary racing exhaust with all new rubber hangers
Japanese Infini IV bucket seats
MOMO steering wheel
Brilliant Black factory color (PZ) PPG DBC Deltron with the last of my DCU2055 clearFrom experience, i think you should be fine…
Etch primer was an older procedure for plastic.I tried the free sample of Bulldog, it was kinda think and was orange peel before I even painted.I now use a generic plastic adhesion promotor that is the consistancy of water,then go straight to base coat. I have seen procedures that call for a sealer between the promoter and base, but not here. Nice job on the qtr! Looks like a skim coat of quality poly putty should smooth right up. I had an RX7 in the shop 10 years ago and the customer told me to be sure and let it warm up after first starting. next thing I know.. one of my guys crunk it and moved it, then shut is down. It would not start back. The customer came over and we dumped tranny fluid into the intake and it finaly started and smoked like crazy for 5 min. I think the vanes were wore out, but I know how to get them back started now!
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