NCP 271 resto job
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I just noticed this question in the shoutbox and thought I’d bring it over here to get you some more answers. And if to many people write in the shoutbox you won’t see my reply.
doing resto work , rear quarters were both stripped then prepped with 100 grit before using ppg, Dx1791 and then ncp 271 as a surfacer, planning to do filler work on top of this.
(I realize this part isn’t exactly in question form)
anyhow, I just wanted to point out that I don’t think you should be doing major filler work over this primer. I believe this is a regular urethane dtm primer. Usually you can only apply filler over epoxy primers. You can probably get away with filling the odd ding but if its major filling you may want to double check.
Any ppg guys out their that know about this primer?
Well, let me put it like this. You can walk across a frozen lake, but you won’t know if you made it til you get to the other side. I hope that clears it up for you, LOL!
Anyway, you can probably get away with going over the primer, but I don’t, with the exception of EZ sand, or simular product.
I’m one of those dinasaurs that metal finish nearly every high end thing, so I would work the panel, apply all-metal as needed, then DP. Go back and prime, block, and maybe putty in a couple places, and re-prime. I’m with Jimmo, I wouldn’t do a major amount of plastic work over a U primer on something I had to stand behind for a long time.
If it is a “used car” for a dealer, it’s OK to apply bondo directly over the 2 inch masking tape, LOL!
My question is this what would you gain by putting an expensive high build primer under your mud work accomplish, besides costing you money.
I think his intent was an epoxy precoat for better corrosion protection, but I don’t think this is the product he wants.
i use Ncp at my shop and it is an expensive primer, it has corrosion resistant properties and we use it DtM all the time but on any jobs that require alot of filler work we always put down Dp first.
It works good when you are blocking if the Dp is a diffrent color than the high build, you can stop sanding before ya wear thru to the epoxy.
i read my P sheets and didnt see anything regarding filler work on top of the Ncp but i find the debate anout filler on top of metal or over epoxy fascinating
keep up the good work everyone
thanks JoshIf you look at the TDS for an epoxy you should find it. Here’s a link to the TDS for DP epoxy’s:
[url]https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCatalog/ServeFile.ashx?FileID=00d4601a-2f0c-4728-adff-94c7c5b64ea5[/url]
If you look near the bottom under compatible topcoats you’ll see DF Body Fillers.
and the plot thickens,
i read the P sheet you were speaking of i also read the sheet for Df bodyfillers and it says that Dp as well as Ncp are compatiable to be topcoated with the Df line of filler.
So it seems like most other things it just comes down to personal experience and preference
thanks Josh
Heres the TDS for the NCP
[url]https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCatalog/ServeFile.ashx?FileID=adcc0a4f-42ca-4fc9-84ea-a78921d274b2[/url]
I cant find where it says you can apply filler over it.
check the Tds for the Df line of fillers, it lists all
Compatible Surfaces
DF Body Fillers may be applied over:
• Properly cleaned and sanded steel
• Properly cleaned and sanded aluminum or fiberglass
• DP Epoxy Primer*
• DPLF Epoxy Primer*
• NCP 270/271 Corrosion Resistant Primer cured and sanded
• NCP 272 Tintable Corrosion Resistant Primer cured and sanded
• NCP 280 2.1 VOC Primer Surfacer cured and sanded
*1 coat of DP Epoxy Primer or DPLF Epoxy Primer must dry a minimum of 1 hour
but preferably overnight ( 16 hours) prior to body filler application. 2 coats of DP
Epoxy Primer or DPLF Epoxy Primer must dry overnight (16 hours) prior to body
filler application.I see now, interesting.
The tech sheet for the ncp also says “Exposed bare metal should be spot primed with a suitable bare metal primer”.
I would stick with epoxy if I was going to due filler over primer.if you need to put a primer under a filler , which is seldom , restos more so perhaps , then I also say epoxy , key word “CURED” and sanded.
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