Need help on how to prep blend area!
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I am alittle confused about this process but this is what I’ve been able to find so far.. letsassume I am repairing a dent in the drivers door and need to blend the new bc/cc into the passenger door and 1/4 panel.
1. repair dent area and prime
2. wet sand primed area with 400g
3. wet sand un primed area on dr door, passenger door and 1/4 panel with 1500g?
4. BC damaged area and blend 30-50% into passenger door and 1/4 panel ?
5. clear whole area that was wet sanded with 1500gmy confusion I guess is with step 3. wouldnt there be adhesion problems when I start spraying the bc over the 1500g areas on the 1/4 panel and passenger door? also wouldnt there be a noticeable difference over the damaged area that was wet sanded with 400g when the bc transfers over to 1500g areas?
sorry if I am totally missing some obvious facts but the search feature didnt help me on this one,
thanks1500 is pretty fine …. we use 800 grit and an orientation coat of clear base prior to color paint and blend
clear base coat? never even heard of that. I sanded up for a blend with 600 grit. another time I scuffed with a gray scotch brite and scuffing gel.
ppg 500 makes a single stage clear sealer….i think this is something similar to what stone is saying…Matrix line calls it color blender…never used either but i don’t do blends on metallics everyday… What color and type materials are you spraying?
I am going to be spraying Red on my 96 prelude, will probably be using either ppg or omni? the thing is I have sprayed base over 1500g and it immediately caked/wrinkled up!! but I think I may not have sanded the surface enough since I used 400g before hand and thought 1500g sands the same as 400g lol, and didnt put the extra effort to really sand the surface down? another thing that confuses me is, if I sand the top coat with 1500g and get it to be gray, when I spray the base over it and assuming it sticks is the clear going to bring back the base coat that was under neath the grayed areas and blend it into the new base coat or all areas that have been sanded with 1500g and have become gray need to be base coated?
thanks for all the replies guys, I just want to double check on everything so I dont have to do the job 3times like the last time I painted my hood…:S
Well…
You need the appropriate grit for adhesion. Generally a coarser grit gives better adhesion (since it cuts deeper and creates more surface area). However, the products you are using will only cover so coarse of a sand scratch.
Final sanding prior to applying basecoat will vary by brand, some (like DuPont Chromabase) can cover 400 grit. Most people sand finer, however, especially on metallic colours. There is also a difference if you are sanding dry or wet or with a DA sander. If you are wet sanding, I would finish sand the primer no coarser than 600 (or 5oo dry). Most clears will cover 800 grit scratches. You could prep the blend are with 800, or as fine as 1000. I would think that anything finer than 1000 may have adhesion issues. Or you can use a grey or gold scotch brite pad with prep paste. For a beginner I would recomend the paste, because it almost eliminates the possibility of burning through the clear coat when prepping/sanding. If you burn through the clear on a blend panel, base must be applied over that area which defeats the purpose of blending.
Oh, as far as the “greyness” when sanding the clear…you are probably just seeing the dust on the surface. If you clean the panel properly it will be like normal, just not glossy. Clearing over will bring back the gloss and make the colour appear as before.
this is what i do.
after the repair is done, primer is sanded and ppg can handle 400g easily. i then,
1-sand everything with a 1000g, not to slick out the clear but just to clean it up(road grit, sap etc.) some times i use 800g too.
2-use a carbo red scotch pad with 3m scuff it.(expensive ajax) and do everything again, makeing sure i get all the edges well.
3-wash
4-if spraying met. i put down dbc500 color blender,(clear basecoat) this helps fill in the fine scracthes so the mets. lay down uniformly. solids colors such as red, i don’t worry about.as for the blending of the color, i try not to get anyfurther than a foot in either direction if possible. after tapeing, cover the blend area’s with paper, color door with a couple of coats, pull paper off, then blend the next coat out some, and then finish off a little further past the last blend.
as for your wrinkleing problem, i will assume that happens after you messed up and are repainting, which if you load up the base that will happen, use a fast reducer or wait longer before repair.
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