New door skins??
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Firstly I would like to introduce myself, my name is Paul and I am a Journeman Auto Body Repair tech for 13 years now.
My question is about the new trend in door skins, having the inner hem around the window opening. This I find almost impossible to hammer over, as there is little to no access from the inside due to the inner window guide. I have researched different door skin application tools and nothing seems like it would work on these. In the past I have sectioned some of these skins (G5’s etc.) and even ground off the hem and panel bonded the inner hem (if it is wrapped by a window channel). I don’t like doing either of these techniques but can’t seem to figure out a better way.
Any help or ideas would be much appreciated.
welcome to the site Paul. i use the curved end of a door skin hammer on the window section to get most of it bent over and then i use a flange type vise grip to close it tight. this is the hammer type im talking about http://www.ebay.com/itm/Martin-Fiberglass-Handled-Door-Skin-Hammer-170FG-/130747341861 and this is the vise grip im referring to http://www.ebay.com/itm/The-Original-Locking-8-Sheet-Metal-Tool-Irwin-23-Vise-Grip-8R-/230834205791?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item35beca745f&vxp=mtr
welcome to the site paul. i use the curved end of a door skin tool to get most of the window flange bent over and then a wide sheet metal vise grip to finish the bend tight. http://www.wurtec.com/products/Hand%20Tools/8R-3.jpg and http://www.toolsource.com/prod_medium/115773.jpg
I had thought of that, does it work well with much distortion to the panel? I also might try to modify a set of the vise grips with a nylon pad on one side and cut down the opposite side for a smaller bite to fold the hem easier…
Thanks for the reply, gives me something to go on, it’s frustrating when the manufacturers come up with these “new” ideas and it’s up to us to figure them out.
If you take a 3m 3 inch brown cookie or clean and strip disk and remove the ecoat on the corner it will help the edge fold over easier.Also when you are finished folding the edge over take a da(old knuckle duster sander)in the lock mode and use a crosshatch pattern you can metal finish the edge for a perfect filler free job.I have found the old proto 1426 body hammer to be the best door skin hammer.I also agree with what Mo said 😉 http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/myhoney077.jpg
Try using a pair of duckbill vicegrips. Works pretty good.
Chuck
[quote=”Idunnit” post=31996]Try using a pair of duckbill vicegrips. Works pretty good.
Chuck[/quote]
Going to try that, gotta get the quarter panel installed first. Might try to modify a pair for doing the skins.
Thanks for the replies guys, I knew I wasn’t the only on frustrated by this.
Worked like a champ! I slightly modified the grips by flattening the top jaw (it was slightly curved) to prevent dimples on the outer edges as I went along. The bottom jaw I actually curved downward, to allow an approach angle. Finally I adhered a piece of a nylon spreader to the top jaw to protect the panel from being marred while clamping and releasing. Maybe I can post a picture or two tomorrow?! The job went well on the 2010 Mitsubishi Lancer rear door, no fill required, just sanded the edges and will prime in the morning.
Thanks again guys! :cheer:
I have a question that anybody knows the procedure of the door skin installation? How to remove old door skin and replace with the new one. I appreciated if anybody will guide me?
[url=http://www.unitedcarcare.com.au/services/mechanical-services.php]Learn about mechanical repair in details[/url]
[quote=”salbert55″ post=32069]I have a question that anybody knows the procedure of the door skin installation? How to remove old door skin and replace with the new one. I appreciated if anybody will guide me?
[url=http://www.unitedcarcare.com.au/services/mechanical-services.php]Learn about mechanical repair in details[/url][/quote]
Go on youtube and their is a ton of videos on it. But probably the biggest tip I can give you is to make sure you fit the door before you tack weld anything in place. I have seen to many guys not take 10 minutes to prefit it and then spend an hour with a big hammer and half gallon of mud trying to make it right.
Chuck
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