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  • February 3, 2011 at 8:19 am #28024

    Hey guys, new to this forum, been painting since 03/04 and am now 24 almost 25. I used to use sherwin williams and dupont along with some ppg. I have since switched jobs and am learning the ropes in Diamont. Does anyone have any tips on blending and laying metallics down nicely seeing I am having a few issues with it. I am spraying my base coats with a Iwata supernova 1.3. Thanks!

    February 3, 2011 at 8:48 am #28027

    :welc to the forum, i think most of the problems that metallics have are caused by improper reduction and air pressure. now is this a problem with all metallics or some like silvers and golds?

    February 3, 2011 at 8:55 am #28029

    My reductions are correct, I am getting the hang of how to lay this type of base down, but it seems to be a pain to blend withought cloudiness with the lighter metallics. Should I still mist out and flick my gun and taper it or should I do low pressure and stop without flicking the gun out? Also I am not using any blending beds, is this something that is almost necessary for Diamont?

    February 3, 2011 at 9:04 am #28031

    i dont use diamont but i use debeer solvent and i rarely apply a wet bed . i do however raise my air pressure a bit more so it doesnt spray so wet. and then i always finish with a drop coat by over reducing just a little more, lowering my air pressure and holding the gun further then usual so the metallics just fall into place and dont look blotchy. i think if your using solvent base its still okay to flick ur wrist to blend it.

    February 3, 2011 at 9:13 am #28032

    see thats just it, that is what I am used to but not with diamont, you have to spray it rather heavy, and it looks modeled but the metallics orientate as it flashes off. That is where I am blinded by blends, I just cant seem to get it to blend without it being modeled. If you spray a light coat over any of it it will model like crazy.

    February 3, 2011 at 4:45 pm #28037

    Welcome to the site!

    February 3, 2011 at 5:05 pm #28038

    Spray a coat of BC100 (reduced normally) over your blend area before you start, makes blending a hell of a lot easier. I am not sure how the supernova handles diamont but I know my LPH400 sprayed it much better with a larger tip (1.4), the other painter at our shop prefered the 1.4 on his GTI too. That stuff works well applied wet. Its a great paint line, once you start throwing down BC100 I’m sure you’ll find blending a hundred times easier.

    February 4, 2011 at 3:00 am #28052

    Dont flick your wrist on the blend panel. Lay a wetbed its way easier to blend the color. Just stop your color not flicking you wrist, when it comes time to make your blend lay a wetbed (glasoruit 55-B500 is the best as it stays wet longer allowing your metallics time to lay down). Start working your blend in till it goes away, youll see some modeling on the edge alittle so cut your color down 1:1 with bc100, dropping you air down a bit work the area. Before ya know it it’s gone. This is the method I use and have had great success in blending metallics. I also use diamont and I love everything about it. I use an iwata lph400 for my base and clears.

    February 6, 2011 at 9:23 pm #28194

    cool deal, I am being told to use a wetbed but also, when it comes to getting the metallics to not model on a fully panel paint is there any little tricks to it? I use ur60 reducer and I am told to reduce .75 to 1 rather then 1to1 for coverage?

    February 6, 2011 at 10:09 pm #28195

    The base is supposed to be 2:1. I use ur50 or ur60, If you mix your base 2:1, and aply it wet your modeling problem should go away. Puting it on to light will cause it to model, and if mixed 1:1 or over reduced will cause modeling. Using to fast of a reducer can case modeling too. Your metallics need time to lay down. I spray at 70-75 degrees in the booth, and use ur50 reducer most of the time, and use a 75% over lap on my base. Allow proper flash times as well. Its an awesome product once your use to using it. Probably one of the more user friendly paint lines i’ve used.

    February 6, 2011 at 10:11 pm #28196

    I agree with others,if using a hvlp a move up to a 1.4 will help.This way you have bigger droplets and are not overatomizing your basecoat,when this happens the base is drying in the air before it hits the surface causing mottling.On your last coat increase your distance,drop air pressure a couple of psi(but be careful it could darken color) do 50% overlap and slow down slightly,but don’t do a drop coat keep it a little wetter.Hope this makes sense,that is how I used to spray diamont 10 years ago suing a GTI with a 1.4.

    February 6, 2011 at 10:21 pm #28199

    ok so mix it 2 parts base 1 part reducer? I know when you mix a color it tells you to ad ur50 as the first part of the mix, I was told to leave this out then reduce it 1 part base .75 reducer. Also I have a 1.3 iwata. I am sure I can manage with the needle size. What psi do you all spray at? Also I use ur60 and spray in about 80 degrees.

    February 7, 2011 at 2:24 am #28204

    When mixing the color add the reducer like it says, its such a little amount that it doesnt play such a factor in the reduction. Reduce your color 2:1. If your spraying at 80degrees I would definantly use ur60. I use an iwata lph400 1.4. A 1.3 might be over attomizing and not allowing enough meterial. A 1.4 is perfect for base, infact thats all I use for base and clear. I spray at between 20-25psi for base. If your using a smaller tip I would run about 20psi or move up to a larger tip. My fan pattern is 3/4 of a turn from wide open, and wide open on material. Dont put your base on dry or you will get some modeling. The base is designed to go on wet, dont be afraid to put it on that way.

    February 7, 2011 at 4:01 pm #28227

    :welc rodney

    February 8, 2011 at 11:50 pm #28241

    :welc

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