Nissan C30, what colour undercoat?
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Got a Nissan to do tomorrow, code c30. A light gold/beige metallic.
Front bumper, bonnet and blend wing/fenders.
Bonnet is in white primer, bumper is raw black plastic.
My question is should I undercoat the bumper in white to match the wings/fenders?
I was going to scuff, clean, plastic prime and base the bumper but Im thinking I may need to undercoat it first?
I’ve never sprayed that color code but looking at the standox solvent formula it doesn’t look like a poor hider. If I were doing it I would just prep & prime the bumper as long as it is a med. grey or lighter and maybe put a light sealer on the front edges of the fenders where the bumper meets just to make sure I have about the same coverage there.
Thanks for the info.
I have sprayed it once before but only a small blend between 2 doors. It covered ok for the type of colour.
I just wondered if there would be a colour difference between the bumper and fenders if I left the bumper black.
I think I will do as you suggested and seal the new parts and just blend the fenders as normal.
Factory bumpers never match anyway I guess!
You were not thinking of leaving the bumper raw I’m assuming. Just asking.
I’m sorta glad factory bumpers don’t match. :lol1 Makes my job easier sometimes.
You should seal any new parts, even if they came primed.
A light grey, as close in value to your colour as possible would be ideal. As long as you get full coverage, the colour of the undercoat shouldn’t affect the completed job.
It the parts you are painting don’t match eachother afterwards, it is more likely a result of spraying them inconsistently (spraying a part off in a different orientation will affect how the metallics lay, and depending on how you spray, coverage can be different).
Dupont recommend Value Shade 5. 11 parts HS Black: 9.6 parts HS White: 1.6 parts LS Blue.
I can almost guarantee that the bar will come out a shade different to the guard, but that always happens. I would prime the lot in mid-grey to get consistency.
Looking at the formula it’s 3% Black, 1% LS White and 0.03% Transparent Maroon so there is precious little colour there to give much in the way of hiding, although it’s not flagged as a poor hider and there’s plenty of metallic.
Thanks for the help guys.
I will seal the new parts light grey before baseing to help keep the coverage consistent.
Plastic primed the new bumper, sealed the new hood/bonnet and bumper in light grey, put a wet bed on the wings/fenders then based and cleared. Coverage was very quick over the light grey.
[IMG]http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/q705/jackmarshall1/IMG_0367_zps757fc228.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/q705/jackmarshall1/IMG_0368_zps30382851.jpg[/IMG]
In the words of Jimmo ‘not too shabby’
This place really is awesome for good advice. Thanks again guys.
:rock Excellent,rock on. Nice lookin’ job! :cheer:
:rock hey mate looks awesome, another great job. Keep it up and keep posting :clappy
nice work. is a wet bed called a wet bed in the uk/ireland. or is there a different name on it over here?
Wet bed / orientation coat. Its all the same as far as Im aware. Recently started using it and wish Id found it a long time ago.
[quote=”JackMarshall” post=31290]Wet bed / orientation coat. Its all the same as far as Im aware. Recently started using it and wish Id found it a long time ago.[/quote]
does it come ready to spray or does it have to be mixed, as in can i buy a can of it? i’ve a silver hilux to do soon for a family member so i want it to be right. cheers.
Its just clear base coat, just ask your supplier for it.
I use debeer solvent and this is what I use for wetbed;
http://www.de-beer.com/TDS/DBL-BB500BA.php?lang=en
Thinned/reduced 2:1 sprayed over any blend areas.
Jimmos videos show this technique very clearly.
Your blends are best done whilst the wet bed is still wet then work your way back to get coverage but it does still work when its dry Ive found.
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