Old dog new tricks????
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My shop has switched to Sikkens Autowave.Used Nexa before so i dont have and issue with the base so much as it seems you have to apply it differnt. My issue is with Colorbuild. I am seeing rings where my featherd paint is when i spray as a surfacer. My edge is pulled back with 220,320,and400. It seems like a good product just maps. Is it to fast? I have spot and panel reducer. Is there a slower one. Im spray at least 70 in a prep station or a booth.1.7 tip….and medium coat. I am not pounding it on there. I have sprayed an even lighter coat than usually when start and didnt seem to help any. For such i good product i cant believe there primer is like this…… Any Suggestions? Thanks for responding.
It’s not so much their primer as it is the substrate exposed from your featheredge. The manufactuers started using a wet on wet process much like we use and as a result it is more sensitive. Easiest way to combat this I have found is to put a light coat on first and let it flash good. Dont dry spray the piss out of it, and you should not achieve opacity with it but just a nice light coat. Once flashed make your first wet coat just a medium one, then proceed as normal.
It would also help if you could get an IR lamp on it for a few minutes before priming, but that isn’t a very good option for most people.
Yes as ryan said, you need to “stack” your coats of the colorbuild. Myself if i think im going to have the burning ring of fire for whatever reason ill put on the first coat very light and let flash for long enough and then go medium to full wet as per usual.
But really when your featheredging back 1 inch for every layer of substrate you have, you shouldnt get that ring as much or at all.that colorbiuld must really blow as a primer if it is that touchy reminds me of lacquer primer :p :p :p :p :p
:rofl :rofl :rofl
The shop that I work at uses Sikkens and we quit using the colorbuild for most of our work, we had them drop off Utec 2k works pretty decent as long as its not abused. We still use the colorbuild for spot jobs when you dont have alot of area to work with just cause you can get the color real close on it.
Chuck
We use CBP250 for our primer surfacer and sealer. Only had it do that to me once as a surfacer. I think that was a job I hosed the shit on though. Never had any other issues like that with it, it is a good product and sands very, very well.
Hi guys, thanks for the advice. Its “plus” im using. Not 250. Is 250 better? Maybe i will get some.For the money i wish i was using Debeer 8-145 mixed 4:1 to 10%. its 200 kit price and dosnt map even if you pound it.Thanks guys
agreed, i was having the occasional problem about a year ago with the primer making fisheyes if i hammered on first coat to heavy. Havent had that problem since i started leaning back on the first coat, and think its wicked primer with great build and sands very nice when mixed and applied correctly.
Yep! I know what youre talking about. I have been using cbp for about a year now after using sherwin for almost ten years. Color build is ok but not the best primer out there. I have better luck using a smaller nozzle and going light with my coats. It seems to be a good primer in the summer but cold temps dont do this primer any justice.
[quote=”BadSon23″ post=23636]. Any Suggestions? Thanks for responding.[/quote]
Have you resolved the issue?
My suggestion would be to add Elastoactif at about a 10-15% ratio.
Like Ryan already stated, some of it could be due to the substrate. Some could be due to the aggressive solvents used to create the DTM properties.
we been using CBP for years and those jobs that the primer rings appear, have always sanded out after the primer dries and we have no issues with shrinkage either. Once that stuff dries, it is solid. Thinner wont take overspray off or soften it up either.
CBP 250 is hotter than regular CBP 😉
I resolved it! Stop using colorbuild as a primer surfacer….he….he…he!
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