Ongoing Clearcoat Problem, Please look at pics!
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I wouldnt think line distance has anything to do with it. If it was really short yes, but not 75 feet. His filter on the end would trap any moisture. I think Ding is probably right,what are you using to filter out oil, etc? I still think if you put in a decent 3 stage your problems will go away.. I have never had any problems in my booth, but I have a dryer after the compressor, a 3 stage dryer on the booth as well as a carbon filter, and then 2 filters with regulators in the booth. Gotta be in your air lines..
Just another idea to throw into the mix, that I’ve only just remembered. I had a similar problem once many years ago, and simply couldn’t get rid of it. I rang a guy I used to work with for advice, and he told me to change the air hose I was using, as it was a cheap workshop type rather than a bodyshop specific one, and it did the trick!
Turns out tiny bits of rubber were breaking away inside the line and causing my contamination. Not sure if that info will be of any help to you, but it might be worth borrowing another hose to try 🙂
Well, I just cut out 20 feet of hose I did not need. I did an paper towel test in which I held down the air blow gun onto the paper and held it down for 3 minutes. I have very cool air and not one smidge of water or oil on the paper towel. I blew the air on one spot of the paper towel to keep it consistent. Is this a true enough test to cut out air lines as an issue?
You could have very small particles of oil you wont see, the paper towel test is probably not really accurate. Get a new filter setup and go from there.. You can move the one you have at the end up next to the compressor and be miles ahead.. Also what are you using for cleaning products? Tack racks? Towels? These could also lead to some of these problems.
Hey Guys,
So I sanded back down and repainted today. Today was sort of a test day so to speak.I followed a new direction with my wax and greaser remover in the sense that I used it correctly. I put it in a spray bottle and I sprayed it on like a river, then wiped it clean. Before I just put a damp amount on a paper towel and wiped clean. I was told that when you put it on wet, it brings the contaminants to the top.
I believe I solved the contamination issue with the W&G-R, however I still had a couple crators in the panel and I think I know what they are from. There are little white specks at the middle of the crators. In the second coat of clear, I saw them. I took a pointy object and i put it to the center of the crator and i was simply able to move the “white dot” off onto my object. Of course it messed the clear up, but when i sprayed over it, it did not crator. This leads me to suspect that I am moving some sort of dust onto the panel that is creating this issue. I didn’t notice it until the second coat because the dust is moving onto the 1st coat of clear, where it gets stuck. It could be that the slight wind blew dust from my stand onto the panel. I believe that it is the clearcoat dust from when it was sanded, which most likely was still on my clothes or stand. I concur because I looked back at my basecoat pictures and saw a couple of these white specks on the panel itself. I remembered that these specs were easy to tack off, however, a few of the nuggets landed in the first coat of clear, thus in the second they created the creator. It must be that since it is not normal trash, that it is causing this problem. Take a look at the pictures from today.
Here are the pictures from today.
[b]To paint the picture, here is where I usually paint. In my front lawn in an open space. I have 50 feet of hose going out to where I paint which you can see in the grass.[/b]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_7155.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_7161.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_7162.jpg[/IMG][b]Here are those white specs that get stuck in the paint and cause the crator, I think[/b]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_7170.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_7184.jpg[/IMG][b]Here is how the basecoat looks before clearcoat.[/b]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_7179.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_7181.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_7182.jpg[/IMG][b]Here’s where i did not have an issue[/b]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_7196.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_7204.jpg[/IMG]After wetsanding, I do not have the crators that I had before, only a couple spot specs from the issue mentioned above. Looks like panel contamination was the culprit.
interesting… i totally forgot this, but i only started using wax and grease remover as a final solvent like 2 months ago. prior to that i used slow urethane reducer that i had a drum of and didnt like. worked flawlessly.
I think this thing was giving me issues because it has been painted a dozen times( my practice panel) which means it has been wetsanded and buffed alot. I am sure some contaminants from the wax were still on this.
Mocoke, I would be using a water based cleaner as your final not wax and grease remover.. I clean with wax and grease removed first, water based cleaner, then we used spray way glass cleaner as our final. Paint jobs always come out clean, no fish eyes ever!. Dont use reducers as cleaners that is not a good idea.
this is probably a long shot but i’ll throw it out there because i had the same problem a few years ago. finally after months went by i fnally figured it out, it ended up being my mixing cups. i wasn’t using an actual paint mixing cup to mix my clear and whenever i mixed in these cups i had i would get tons of fisheyes and craters. only thing that did it was clearcoat just as what it happening to you.
Mixing cups are important because anything inside (if paper/wax) can leach onto the clear.
What is the difference between wax and greaser remover opposed to water based cleaner?
I like the idea of using both, but whats the reason behind it?
each one will remove a different set of contaminents. i have had some things that i could wipe all day long with solvent type and the rag be perfectly clean when i’m done then go get the waterbased stuff and wipe over the same part and rag comes up black. works the other way around as well.
the cups i was using were plastic polypropolene cups but i guess there was something in the manufacturing of them that was causing problems with the clear.
The way BASF wanted us to do it was wash with wax/silicone remover at the beginning of the job only and use the waterbased at the end (maybe use an alcohol based cleaner too which can eliminate fingerprint oils..etc). It seems the waterbased cleaner is more effective at removing sanding dust, they had a board showing the comparison between the two. The waterbased cleaner made the panel look much better. That’s the way I do it but the other painter at our shop uses wax/silicone remover as his final wipe and seems to get by alright.
This is also the way they want it in a shop, maybe if your not able to control the environment as well it may be best to use the wax/silicone remover more often.
I am going to pick some of that up.
So for reference. It is Waterbased cleaner? Or waterbased wax and grease remover. I am going to check out my local jobber today.
I went down to my jobber today to look for the water base cleaner, but it wont be in till Monday. Seems like it is pretty popular. In the mean time picked up some cleaning soap (for wetsanding primer), lint free wipes for the wax and greaser remover and an inline filter. (got rid of the snake).
I also picked up some sprayway glass cleaner, we will see how that works out!
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